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Published: August 18th 2007
Wroklaw
Street puddlesPoland was one of those countries about which I wasn't overly informed. In fact what did I know about Poland?
- for a long period, the whole country was criss-crosed by German and Soviet tank tracks, the Poles having been the general whipping post for its aggressive neighbours.
- they like vodka.
- there is a very good Polish female butterfly swimmer.
How about some famous Poles.
The ones I could rattle off included:
- Chopin
- Lech Walesa
- Pope JP11
- Killer Kowolski.
One who I didn't know was Polish was Marie Slodowska. Don't know her? Same as me, until she married Pierre Curie.
One thing that struck me whilst scouring the map of Poland was the "uniqueness" of many of its cities names. A red light is flashing here (and no Mr Simpson, this is not a good red light) warning readers of some disgraceful imminent "humour".
WROKLAW - sounds like a TV private eye. Jack Wroklow, Private Eye. He doesn't play by anybody elses rules.
ZAMOSC - a cough syrup. Take 2 teaspoons and go straight to bed.
WARSAW - a very lame weapon. "Look out! He's got a warsaw."
GDANSK - guy with a speach impediment
Wroklaw
The church from the bridge walks up to a girl at a party, "would like to Gdansk?"
My absolute favourite name coincides with one of the most absorbing towns you'll find anywhere in Europe. Every time I see the name KRAKOW, I imagine one of those fight scenes from the Batman TV series. SPLAT! ZOT! KRAKOW!
Cornball crap now on the backburner, you are asking what is so special about Krakow. When the Germans began their truncated world tour back in the 30s, Poland was No.1 on the hit list and wasn't spared much flack. However, when the tanks rolled into this town, for some reason, they didn't KRAKOW the place, meaning this wonderful city has only had to be lovingly maintained as opposed to lovingly restored like the rest of the country. It's beautiful, lively and trendy, with a wealth of live music including a brace of atmospheric jazz clubs.
A couple of easy day trips add a tasty dessert to the Krakow main dish. The World Heritage Wielezka salt mines are one although a major tourist circus. The other star billing is Oswiecim, perhaps more notorious with the German spelling Auschwitz. It's difficult to imagine a more sombre "tourist attraction". This is one
Wroklaw
Not reflected! place where masses of tourists make very little noise. There are no snappy one liners and you won't hear any laughing, guaranteed. It's compelling viewing. While most people are more than informed on the grizzly history of Auschwitz, it's never the same unless you're there at the game and wandering through the old barracks, gawking open mouthed at the displays and statistics, you can't help but become introspective.
As previously mentioned, most of the remainder of Polish cities didn't quite fare as well as Krakow. Zamosc is a cutesy town close to the Ukraine border whose pre-war population included 45% Jews. How do you reckon they finished up circa 1939?
Warsaw, the capital, was 85% destroyed during the war and its restructure is something else. Most of the structures are in reality less than 60 years old but they still look like restored 500 year old plus buildings. I don't know hows they done it but I knows they done it.
Gdansk is a port town (and I bet you didn't even know Poland even had a coast) that was also very harshly treated by those nasty Nazis. In fact it was the initial attack here back in 39 that
Auschwitz
Roll call alley to you know where. accounced the war. Not the sort of history you'd want attached to yourself. Gdansk was pretty much also levelled and its recovery is a testament to Polish resilience. In the looks department, Gdansk stands toe to toe with the best. (I wasn't as impressed with the "beach resorts" further along the coast).
Gdansk is also the birthplace of the Solidarity movement. We happened to roll into town on the 27th anniversary of Lucky Lech's initial speach, a day that was to be the launching pad for the downfall of Communism in Europe. This day also coincides with a religious public holiday in Poland and so Gdansk was abuzz with activity. A genuine pleasure to be amongst. Like Cronulla's jazz and shiraz festival on mega steroids.
By the time we rolled into Torun, our last stop in Poland, Eastern Europe/Polish ennui was beginning to settle in. If Torun had been our first port of call in Poland, I'd be raving. After more than 5 weeks since Greece, these wonderful places were becoming mere statistics. I think it's time we aimed west.
Before signing off on Poland, a few little quirky observations:
- a lot of Polish girls enjoy a beer but
Auschwitz
Tight security, try climbing over the electrified fence drink it from a straw. Ooooo, very elegant.
- on the open road, the Poles drive like maniacs and they couldn't park a car if their lives depended on it.
- TV. English programmes are "dubbed" in Polish with one lone voice simply reading all the script over the top of the english dialogue.
- anybody wondering which European country has the best looking women? How would I know, I only have eyes for my wife. Hang on, Penny is just walking away. POLAND!!! (except at the beach). With daylight second.
- and how could I leave without a final pathetic joke. I just remembered a few more famous Poles: Telegraph, Vault and the 2 brothers North and South.
Sorry about that. See ya in Berlin.
Yeatesy
We have hit Poland at the busiest /touristy time of the year. Accommodation was always going to be a mission and unfortunately we have had to share bathrooms all the way. However, in saying that there has been plenty to keep us occupied and outdoors most days. We have managed to stop at six cities / towns during our stay in Poland that all have been great, with gingerbread like architecture and
Krakow
Who are you calling Big Head matching cookies served with your coffee. Gary has had a tasting of Polish kransky and the dumplings and of course Polish beer - they don't make wine, just ask the waiters. Food has been good, it is definitely more cosmopolitan than many of their neighbouring eastern block countries.
As Gary mentioned, Poland by far hosts the best looking women we have seen in Europe yet. There are very few signs of obeisity here in Poland, they are mainly kept at the beachside area which I might also add has plastic coloured palm trees dotted along the sand. I haven't seen that before. No doubt the Gold Coast will seek them out.
Auschwitz was probably a highlight for me. This might sound macabre but a notice at the entrance says something along the lines of "unless you reflect on the past how can you enhance the future". The actual sight is now an UNESCO protected site and I was suprised how familiar the area was to me. I obviously have seen most of the area in documentaries or in war movies. It was an eerie feeling walking the same ground the Polish / Jews /Hungarian and other neighbours walked all those
Krakow
Dual means of transport years ago.
Wroklaw was our first stop and probably will be one of my fondest memories of Poland. It is the 3rd largest city in Poland but does not have that BIG city feel. The town overlooks a grand plaza which comes to life at night with buskers who were very entertaining. Tommy Emanuelle was due to play here a few days after we left, we missed it again.
Our last stop in Poland was Torun. It also boasts a beautiful plaza, which as I write my blog is bathed in sunshine and is a hive of activity with the locals out for their Saturday morning coffee and Lody (ice-cream). The people here have also been nice. Yesterday I called into a cafe for a coffee, only to be told by the waitress "yes we have, but it is not very tasty". She then directed me to this cafe where I am now enjoying a morning coffee.
We treated ourselves last night and hit the cinemea - Dobry Rok - I am sure you have all seen it, "A Good Year".
Well another destination tucked under our belt, it is good bye to Eastern Europe and the Zloty and back
Krakow
Rocking in the streets to the west tomorrow. O oh, more euros to burn, but the end of multiple currencies for a while.
Penny
More images at:
www.colvinyeates.zenfolio.com
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serpent
non-member comment
PL
Just for the record, there is no city called Wroklow in Poland.As far as i know there's Wroclaw ,used to be called Breslau by the nazi bastards.By the way ,i would strongly recommend you to get familiarize with Polish history before sharing your impressions,opinions and remarks regarding Poland with others.