Stormy Viking Days.

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Friday
What a change in the weather today, cold wet with low cloud! We pottered about in Dream Catcher catching up on a few little jobs and then set off to explore the rest of the island. There isn't any point in walking any trails as all the hikes climb up into the low cloud as Vaeroy is mostly a mountain with three small villages in grassy bays.We explored a couple of tracks leading to the sea and found a place where we could watch some of the local birds, there are pairs of eider ducks paddling around, it's always seems unfair with ducks that the males have such beautiful feathers and the females are so drab. There's a black guillemot, the first we've seen, it's smaller than I expected! Through the spotting scope Les found some common gull chicks little balls of grey fluff wandering along the edge of the cliffs, a parent close by didn't seem to be paying attention, it made me feel very nervous that they might fall off. I then saw a golden eagle heading their way, there was suddenly a mid air battle as several gulls attacked the eagle, driving it away from the nesting sites, amazing to witness, the eagle was beautiful, but flew away defeated. Next we explored a few more tracks, but there wasn't anything much to see, as the weather is still wet we parked on a cliff top and chilled out before having a lovely pork and chorizo casserole for tea. We're sailing back to Moskenes this evening, we joined the queue at the ferry terminal, it was cold sitting waiting, it seems that they never run to schedule always late, it must drive the swiss crazy, their transport always runs exactly to time. The ferry arrived, we thought it was on time! But the ticket man told us that we don't get on this one yet, it will unload, then move out of the way, the ferry over there, man points outside the harbour where another ferry is turning in, this one will dock and load and leave for Bodo, then the first on will come back and we can get on. Very complicated! So it was half an hour late sailing-however it made good time and an hour later we were back at Moskenes. Five minutes drive away and were parked up for the night, warming up in bed with a small whiskey, after all it's not a school day!

Saturday.

When we looked out of the window this morning there was a beautiful rainbow over the fjord, Les nipped out to take a photo, a lot of other people passing on the road stopped too! After breakfast we set off north, stopping to empty the waste at Reine, the place we had used before, we filled with water and were soon back on the road, next stop was at Ramberg, when we were in the tourist office booking the ferry to Vaeroy, we noticed that they had free WIFI, an opportunity not to be missed! We have a blog to update and it really eats up data on phones. Half an hour later and after enjoying probably the cheapest coffee in Norway the blog was done so we nipped to the supermarket opposite. Back on the road and we're heading for Leknes, there is an outdoor shop there, some idiot forgot to pack her waterproof trousers, there was plenty of choice in the shop at a price, I chose some from the bottom end of the price bracket. We had lunch in the car park as it was nearly three o'clock! Les had one of his inspirational moments and announce that we should try to get up later and stay up later to make the most of the midnight sun. Great idea, but will you be able to stay up after 10 every day? Well we will see, it would be nice to see some midday sun, never mind the night time sun.Next stop was Lofoten Viking Museum near Borg. In 1981 a farmer's plough hit the remains of a powerful Viking chieftains long house, the longest building of it s time ever discovered in Scandanavia. The museum tour started with a film about the chieftain and his life, there was a display of artefacts found at the site, fine glass pieces from delicate glass wear, jewellery, tools and swords, all giving a glimpse of life in Viking times. Next outside to the reconstruction of the long house. Inside there are hands on displays of how things were produced , how rooms were decorated, information about the gods the people believed in, clothes to dress up which we took full advantage of, a guide took our photograph. It was all very interesting, we didn't realise that the Vikings traded with Britain, our history lessons only told of war, rape and pillaging. There is an option to walk 1.5 km to a replica Viking ship, it's not raining too heavily so we go, we passed the site of the original long house, marked by posts, and followed the track to the fjord, along the way there were sites for children to try archery, and crafts, but all closed today, the main season not starting until mid June. The Viking ship wasn't as big as the one we had seen at Tonsberg. We returned to the museum centre and had the obligatory wander around the museum shop before returning to Dream Catcher.Our camping spot for the night was at Eggum, there is a costal path that goes to Unstad, where we walk Logan for an hour, it's bitterly cold with light rain, yet there's a crazy chap surfing on the big waves. We're glad to get back inside and get warmed through. The storm is still raging when we turn in.

Sunday.

Still the storm rages. Dream Catcher is rocking about in the gusts and the rain is torrential. After trying to decide where to head for next we set off for Svolvaer, we have been here before on the Hurtigruten, some years ago. The weather is no better when we arrive, so after looking at the forecast for the week, wet and cold, we make the decision to blast north towards North Cape, Nadya has warned us of snow tomorrow, could that be why all the campers on the road seem to be heading in the opposite direction? The sooner we have accomplished our goal of the northernmost point we can head south to warmer climates! The day on the road wasn't very inspiring, we did stop at a view point to take a photograph, the only one of the day! After covering around 150 miles we stopped for the evening. Les walked Logan whilst I showered, teas in the oven, Dream Catcher is warm, so all's well.

Monday.

Happy Anniversary to us! Cards were exchanged, not that we're poor pensioners, but these are the cards we bought each other last year and didn't find time to write and exchange them as we were so busy dismantling Polly and Callum's wedding, so we have had them put away for a year, I'm really surprised that we remembered to pack them. There has been some snow overnight, the mountain tops are covered, luckily it's only sleeting at sea level. After around an hour on the road, we stopped for coffee, the big camper that parked near us in Germany is parked here too (does size matter blog) We stopped to chat, they're Dutch, and have like many travellers that we meet they've sold up and are living in their vans. They are also heading to North Cape, no doubt our paths will cross again. A little way further on we see signs for Sami souvenirs, we don't usually buy souvenirs, but we do like to have a look for anything that might be hand made, not mass produced. Inside the large teepee style tents a wood fire is burning with black cauldrons of reindeer soup bubbling away. The souvenirs are all the usual things you find in most of these types of shops, gloves hats, slippers, t shirts, fridge magnets, etc. So we keep our money in our wallets. Only a small number of Sami people still make a living from their reindeer herds or costal fishing, most have abandoned their sleds and have snowmobiles, but they have their own parliament, still use their own language and its dialects and continue with their traditions of silversmithing and knife making.Our lunch stop was beside a fjord, whilst we ate lunch we watched the birds on the waters edge, a pair of ringed plovers were searching for food in the sand and also a pair of red shanks. The tide was coming in and by the time we had finished lunch the sand banks were under water, time for the birds and us to move on. The afternoon drive gobble up the miles, we could only imagine the stunning views that were out there as most of the time the cloud was too low and the showers blew in and out. We found a sheltered camping spot at a picnic site and walked Logan. Along the way we were followed by an old collie, he trotted along side Logan for a good way, when we turned around to head home he still came with us, about five minutes from Dream Catcher the dog trotted up a drive up the hillside, it must have been where he lived. We had a celebratory meal of corned beef hotpot washed down with beer for Les (the last of the English supplies) and gin and tonic for me.

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