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Arial view of Brielle
You can see the fortifications and town walls. A walk through history
I've been resting up at my sister's for several days, feasting on the fabulous cheese, rich yogurt, delicious chocolate and fresh baked bread. Having fortified myself, it's time for a foray into the countryside and a chance to walk off those extra calories.
Thus, a day trip and walking tour of Brielle, located about 25 miles outside Rotterdam. This small and picturesc town dates back to 1306. It's claim to fame is several fold: not only is it one of the few fortified towns with many of it's defenses intact and still visible, it was also the scene of a historic event, one that is still celebrated today.
During the Eighty Years' War between the Netherlands and Spain, the Capture of Brielle on April 1, 1572, by Protestant rebels, the Watergeuzen, (or Water Beggers) marked a turning point in the conflict. Subsequently, many towns in Holland then began to support William of Orange against the Spanish rule. For the first time, the hated Spanish occupiers were evicted from a Dutch city. Here's a brief explanation of this historic event: The Water Beggers were men from all layers of the population who had fled from the Spanish
domination of the Netherlands. They united with ships and formed a fleet. On the 1st of April, a part of this fleet was on it's way to Emden, Germany. The ships floated towards Brielle, due to a storm. (At that time Brielle was an important port and harbor close to the sea). The ferryman of Brielle, a sharp fellow named Coppelstock, spotted the fleet and discovered they were the Water Beggars. At that time, the Spanish were not present in Brielle. Coppelstock, along with Vice Adminarl Bloys van Treslong (who was born in Brielle and was obviously no fool either) persuaded the commander of the fleet not to plunder and burn down the town, but to ''save the town for the Prince of Orange". Thus, the town willingly opened it's gates and surrendered to to the Water Beggars, and thereafter Brielle could call itself "Libertatis Primitae"(First in Freedom). This event is celebrated every year on April 1st.
An arial view of the city clearly shows the town walls and projecting fortifications. I started my tour at the St. Catharine Church. This church (1417-1500) is quite large, but only 1/2 the size it was intended to be originally. Beneath the
grass lawn
(don't walk on it without being alert to possible dog bombs) is an even larger foundation. It was never completely finished due to lack of money to fund the construction. On top of the church tower is a base of a six angled smaller tower. I climbed the 318 steps to the top of the church. These same steps were climbed by royal Mary Stuart, wife of William III, when he departed to England. It gave me such a sense of history to climb these stairs, thinking of Mary Stuart climbing them with her ladies in waiting, wondering if and when she would ever see her husband again. (At least I didn't have to climb them wearing full skirts and a corset. I would have ripped my bodice open with all the panting from the exertion. Stairmaster? Who needs one?) From the top of the tower, one has an impressive view of the countryside, including the modern Europort, the largest seaport in Europe.
Another gem of the walking tour, was the "Kruithuisje"or Gunpowder house, built in 1633, which reminded me that Brielle was a garrison-town with impressive defenses. On the ramparts beyond the ancient house and moat,
Gunpowder house
with its' own moat overlooking the canal approach to the town, were magnificent cannons which could be rapidly restocked from the stores contained by the Kruithuisje. Now, this is a peaceful place with many barn swallows swooping and diving after insects.
Other impressive sights included many gabled warehouse homes, reminders of the town's past as a wealthy shipping center with an active harbor. Now, it is a popular place for pleasure boaters.
By this time, having walked over 90% of the town, sustanence was required. A quick stop at a local eatery (built 1752) for koffe & appaaltart (coffee & appletart, 3.50 EU) and then perusal of a few of the lovely shops.
One outstanding shop is Blanche-mode, #17 Turfkade, Brielle. The owner, a former window dresser, has done a simply outstanding job of putting together a small but lovely collection of good quality ladies's clothing, artfully arranged. I wandered in simply to get out of the wind and drizzle, but stayed to admire the unique arrangements of accoutremonts. And, what a surprise, something I truly needed-a sunshine yellow wool shawl, on sale for 25 EU marked down from 50? I'll have one please. These types of shawls are one item I
never travel without: They can be used as shawl, scarf, evening wear, skirt or wrap at the beach, picnic tablecloth, seat warmer, pillow, lightblocker when trying to sleep on the plane...the list goes on and on. Plus they make nice gifts, I'll have one in red, too. Definately a shop which would not be out of place on Rodeo Drive (I should know, I was there only 4 months ago).
Then, back to the bus stop to take the bus back to Rockanje and my sister's warm hospitality. Another delightful day.
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Wendy
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Connie, I love your descriptions of your travels. You have such joie de vivre. In fact, I think that I need a travel buddy just like you in the future! :) God bless you, sister. Wendy