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The view from Samoils Fortress
Another stunning Byzantine Church. Our journey from Serbia to Macedonia saw us travelling through several small towns, and across the border to Skopje, Macedonia's capital city. Border crossings have been managed with confidence by Rozle, and documents have been stamped and approved without difficulty. We enjoyed a lunch stop in the capital, Skopje, and had time to wander the streets and gaze in awe at the gigantic monuments which adorn this capital, rebuilding after an earthquake in 1963 caused significant damage. It is also determined to make its mark, as the city of super-hero monuments, much to the disgust of many residents, who constantly splatter them with paint, as silent protest for irresponsible government spending. Some of the monuments are grotesque, to say the least, but others, such as that celebrating the stages of a woman's life were touchingly beautiful. We enjoyed great food and wine at our winery accommodation that night, before leaving for Ohrid, the beautiful lakeside town, famous for it's freshwater pearls.
The journey there, over a mountain pass, with wonderful winding roads was made much easier for Shane, when I opted for the comfort of the back-up van. He had great fun manoeuvring the GS800 through the corners without his
regular anchor to slow him. And I enjoyed a chance to yarn with Gordan, who is, I must confess, Bosnian, not Serbian! Sorry Gordan for my gaffe! We travelled to the old monastery of Saint Naum, and visited yet another Byzantine church, with frescoes dating back to the tenth century, (hells-bells!), which overlooks Lake Ohrid. The lake reminds us very much of our own Lake Taupo. We also enjoyed the tranquility of a boat-ride, whilst being serenaded by a Macedonian oarsman! Rozle enjoys the element of surprise, and whilst some members of our group are happier on land than at sea, including me, the boat ride was an unexpected pleasure.
Macedonia has been an independent country since 1993, and in those few years it has moved from a little known segment of Yugoslavia, to a proud nation, whose distinctive red and yellow flag flies proudly above its cities and towns. Each time I see their massive flag fluttering in the winds, I feel more and more despondent that Kiwis were unable to agree upon a new symbol to represent where we stand in the world. One that would distinguish us as an independent and free thinking nation, quite distinct
from Australia and the U.K.
We have enjoyed a rest day today, and wandered the narrow cobbled lanes up to more ancient ruins, churches and fortifications. The Macedonian people are warm and friendly, English is widely spoken, and their love of roses is revealed in both public and private gardens. I have been fascinated to see plants growing wild, which we have in our garden back home, and which clearly travelled to NZ in the pocket of some avid plant collector before our bio-security laws made such things impossible! We enjoyed simple street fare for lunch, accompanied by a great tasting local beer. Their food culture reminds me somewhat of Greece, and is fresh and wholesome.
We travel from here to Kosovo tomorrow, which only recently became independent, and it is still considered by many Serbians as part of Serbia....ah, nationalism!!
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