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Published: June 24th 2023
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I wake early but not rested as I have slept on the floor. It is a struggle to wake up as im so tired but when I do get up and shower I'm relieved that my back feels so much better. As I am running late and it is nearing ten I pick a cafe on the main mother Teresa boulevard that does food and drink. I take a high seat inside near a plug and order coffee. An hour or so later I try to order breakfast but my attempt to remove the eggs fails spectacularly and I am talked into a sandwich and chips. I ask for another coffee but they bring me water. It starts filling up and by 11 the place is really busy. I stay put until 1230 then pay my 6 euro and head out.
On lunch I head to the museum of kosovo. It is up the street by the mosques and I am round it in 15 minutes. It is two floors of artefacts but nothing overly to write home about. Nice building though. Next I head to the museum of ethnicology. I struggle to find it and need help from a
local. It is a in old style house very similar to a lot of the building styles in prizren or gjakova. A man greets me and proceeds to give me a 15 minute whistle-stop tour of the old house laid out in traditional style with traditional furniture and clothing. It is interesting and sad to know that this is the only house of this era left as the Yugoslavian government destroyed all the rest. It is pretty and interesting but over quickly enough. I have done two museums in half an hour, must be a new record. I head back, stumbling across the bazaar as I go. When I stay stumble I mean literally as I fall on uneven pavement. Instantly I am surrounded by locals fussing over me, offering me chairs, hosing down my legs with water. It is very sweet but unnecessary and I make my excuses as quickly as I can. The bazaar is cute and colourful. Like with everything else the Yugoslavian government destroyed the ottoman bazaar but the local traders have done their best to rebuild. It is really cute though, so colourful and when I buy a nectarine for 20cents it is about the
nicest, juiciest nectarine I have ever tasted. I walk like a feral animal, juice dripping down me as I eat and walk.
I was hoping to base myself in the vibes area I came across yesterday for the afternoon but I can’t find it so I settle for a central cafe and order a watermelon lemonade which is so refreshing. I have a blueberry one next and some Kosovan pancakes (deep fried doughballs) with some hummus style dip and feta they’re amazing but huge and they take most of the afternoon to eat. At 5 my time I swap locations as I am being eaten alive so head to some cafe, recommended on my blogs. It is a cute old, book style cafe bar with every table reserved from 8. I grab a coffee and enjoy my ambience for my last hour of working, ordering a 6euro cocktail at the end of my working week. It is good and they take card here so I order another. I love the vibe here it’s so beautiful. Like a brewery crossed with a library. After my two cocktails I head via an atm to a hotel rooftop patio which was recommended
for the sunset view. Unfortunately the rooftop bar is closed but they have space on their 8th floor restaurant. I get a really nice seat and order a 2 euro beer but unfortunately it is cloudy and there is not much of a sunset. On the plus side they do have an impromptu fireworks display by the cathedral that I am able to watch. I head to a grocery store on my way home for crisps and chocolate and walk eating it as I head back for the last time here. This city has really grown on me. Its not as beautiful or historical as Prizren or Gjakova but it has a gritty charm and a young, vibrant culture. I've definitely enjoyed my time here but I feel like I've seen all the touristy things.
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