All things must Pass

---

About 4 years ago we set off for the Stelvio Pass but due to circumstances beyond our control we didn’t quite make it. This time we were more fortunate and the Pass did not let us down. More of that later.

The hotel was good, not great, just good. It was quaint and clean and sitting out on the terrace drinking beer was a great way to spend the evening. The food was OK and the room a good size.

We started the day with yet another threat of heavy rain and thunderstorms. This was due to hit around 2pm so we got off to an early start. The morning was beautiful and the roads relatively quiet. We had the jump on the mental cyclists (sorry George) who were about to tackle some of the most taxing climbs in Europe….. for fun?! It wasn’t long before we were hitting the switchbacks and heading for the snow line. The air was thinning and the snow started falling. Yes, the snow was falling and it is mid June. When we set off the temperature was 22 C. By 2500 meters above the briny it was 8.5 C.

The road was every bit as spectacular as we have heard, much more technical than yesterday. Apparently the views were stunning. I looked once, but thought it better to focus on the next hairpin and let Julia take pictures so I could appreciate the scenery later. We reached the top of the Stelvio as the stalls were starting to open and bikers, powered and pedal, started to arrive. After s short mooch around we pressed to the Garvio pass. This second was as far as we made it 4 years ago. This time we approached from the opposite end. The decent down from the Stelvio was a little easier, or perhaps I had my eye in. The ride up to the Garvio was tricky for very different reasons. The road surface was worse than Southampton City Centre. It was badly broken up, with potholes and loose gravel. We lost the front end at one point but with skill and balance …. Ok luck, I kept it up right. We did pass a truck with two workmen fixing the road surface. Fixing is a little generous, throwing yellow bags of instant tarmac into the deep diverts and jumping on the fresh black lumps to flatten them down.

At the top we pulled in for the now compulsory cappuccino and this time a slice of apple strudel with cream. We relived the photo stop September from 2012, this time surrounded by snow. Soon after we set off towards our next stop over, Pisogne and the boat that was going to be our accommodation for the evening. Still no sign of the storms that the weather channel was promising but I’m not complaining. The mercury rose to 26 C and we were dressed for monsoons so we pulled over for ice cream and a break from the heat.

Onwards and with just 50 km to go we were making good time. It was about now that I remembered what I don’t like about Italy, the drivers. Speed limits and double white lines may as well not exist. We were overtaken on a blind bend in a tunnel so that a black Audi could make one bikes length up the road and get stuck behind the massive truck that was 20 ft in front of me. The mini behind, not to be out done, tried to undertake us because I moved wide to discourage him from the same dangerous overtake. Ho hum, if you can’t beat then join them. We exited the tunnel, I spotted a gap, give Tigger a fist full and left the Audi, Mini and Truck in the rear view mirror.

Pisogne is beautiful. A picture postcard town at the end of Lago d’iseo. Due to my new found confidence on the Italian high ways we arrived a little ahead of schedule (still no rain). No worries, an hour in a café absorbing the days travel was just what the doctor ordered. At the appointed hour we headed to the harbor to be shown the boat where we would be spending the evening. A sleek, but slightly past its best, cabin cruiser (I think, I don’t really know boats). After unloading we set off the short walk to the town for supplies. No being in a hotel we would have to find food or fend for ourselves. A short stop off at the supermarket for groceries, wine and an umbrella, yes dear reader, it has finally started raining, and we headed back. My god, did it rain! We just beat the downpour and now we are tucked up, eating and sipping a fine Italian white wine whist the rain beats down, the thunder bellows around the mountains and the lightning lights up the blackened evening sky.

Tomorrow, France



Have a good ‘un

---