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Published: September 30th 2010
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“It’s really smelly.”
“It’s so full of tourists.”
“Don’t go during the summer.”
“It’s the most expensive place in the world.”
“It’s become like a theme park.”
Just a few of the many things I had heard about Venice before I got around to paying a visit.
“It’s so beautiful.”
“The views are spectacular.”
“It’s so romantic.”
“It’s like nowhere else on earth.”
Just a few of the many things I had heard about Cinque Terre before I got around to paying a visit.
An advantage of living in Slovenia, as well as its inherent attractions, is the ease of going abroad. Italy is only an hour’s drive from Ljubljana and I’ve been able to nip over there on quite a few occasions during my time in Slovenia.
Most often this has been to Trieste. Trieste doesn’t have a wealth of attractions but it is the closest Italian city (some would argue that it’s a Slovenian city but I won’t get into a history lecture) to Slovenia and I had some very hospitable friends living there.
Despite many visits, owing to Trieste’s location at the extreme north east
of Italy and almost entirely surrounded by Slovenia, and past, I still didn’t feel like I’d been to Italy proper. A road trip to Bologna changed that.
I only realise that Ljubljana is a village when I go to a real city. True, Bologna isn’t huge, but there are busy streets, fantastic shopping, people of different colours and cultures, there’s the odd bit of rubbish lying around (Ljubljana is spotless); at night there are drunks, shady types and gangs of boisterous teenagers. I loved it.
Meanwhile, Venice is a mere two hour drive from Ljubljana and I had a fantasy before I moved to Slovenia of enquiring before a first date: “Do you like pizza?” and then whipping her off to Venice. A little corny, I never got round to doing it anyway. In fact it took me almost a whole year to make it to Venice.
Given the opening quotes of this blog regarding Venice, I went there with low expectations. This may seem ludicrous to the many people who would give anything to visit this famously beautiful and romantic city. However, many Italians and others who live or have lived nearby really don’t have much
Bologna
In the background you'll notice that not only Pisa has leaning towers. good to say about the place.
Perhaps it was due to my low expectations but I was completely blown away by Venice. Yes it is full of tourists, but for good reason, because it is such a magical and unique place. While San Marco’s square and the Rialto Bridge may be packed, there are delightful little thoroughfares and plazas that see fewer tourists.
It is true that Venice is very expensive but having local knowledge meant we could avoid the pricey tourist traps and even had a place to stay right in the centre (thanks Caroline).
A strong impression is made immediately upon arrival when you descend the steps of Santa Lucia railway station and you are standing right on the Grand Canal. A ferry or gondola then carries you off to wherever you want to go or in our case we decided to negotiate the maze of streets and alleyways on foot.
Many cities of the world use the word “maze” when describing their street layout and it is almost always an exaggeration (except in the case of Fez). In Venice it is justified and I think you could get lost for days. Having a
La Barcolana, Trieste
Watching Europe's biggest regatta. map is of no benefit whatsoever and getting lost is actually a wonderful way to explore the many islands on which Venice lies.
The idea that Venice has become like a theme park comes from the impossibly romantic little bridges, buildings, churches and canals, then when a stripy shirted gondolier drifts by it seems too contrived. The fact that during my visit I was a few days into a short but sweet relationship meant these little details just made everything even more perfect.
One day and several busy trains later we found ourselves in Riomaggiore, the most southern of Cinque Terre’s five villages.
My expectations were high before arriving in Cinque Terre as everyone seems to love it. I won’t say that I was disappointed but it wouldn’t make my favourite places in the world list. Perhaps all the comments such as at the beginning of this blog had led me to expect to be awestruck. Still, it is lovely.
We spent the first day traversing the high level path expecting sweeping views of the coast. In fact most of the walk is spent on overgrown forest paths and you could be anywhere in the world.
With no facilities up there we were parched, hungry and frustrated so called it quits after five hours or so and well over 20km at the monastery of Santuario Madonna di Saviore.
The next day was spent following the lower path and is what most people do when they “do” Cinque Terre. Admittedly it was gorgeous. The route from Riomaggiore to Monterosso al Mare and taking in the other three villages along the way is about 12km yet it takes all day. A nonstop walk wouldn’t take too long but what would be the point in that?
Each of the five villages has its own character and it is easy to linger a while in each. Particularly on a day as hot as when we were there. As well as frequent coffee, beer, focaccia and fresh fruit stops; dips in the sea were necessary to cool down. The inaccessibility to traffic is especially welcome in Italy where elsewhere the scooter and the horn rule.
The route is pretty busy, particularly the initial few kilometres known as the Via Dell’Amore, which is a concrete and metal monstrosity bolted on to the cliffside. The views on offer are fantastic
if you can ignore the overengineered rock bolts and erosion resistant wire netting.
Later on the crowds thin out as the path becomes a lot more strenuous. It winds up through vineyards and olive groves, down rocky steps and over broken slabs. We still managed to negotiate it wearing flip flops but I was pleasantly surprised at how it turned into a proper walk rather than sightseeing.
I took a billion photos because the brightly coloured villages clinging to the cliffs and pouring down to their respective tiny harbours contrast beautifully with the rugged cliffs, steep cultivated slopes and deep blue sea. Despite my descriptions I still feel as though I expected more given the overwhelming comments I had heard about Cinque Terre.
Go there, judge for yourself.
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