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Published: October 18th 2010
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Berat
One of Albania's three UNESCO World Heritage Sites and known as "the City of a Thousand Windows". “Why Albania?”
...was the response I got when suggesting the destination for a week’s holiday in August.
“Because I’ve already been to Croatia loads of times this year, including with you only two weeks ago. Or we could go to Italy again but I’d really like to go somewhere new.” (Croatia and Italy being the most obvious destinations when you live in Slovenia).
“But what is there to see and do in Albania.”
“I’m not sure but I’ve always wanted to go there.”
“Why?”
“Why not? It’ll be different.”
Eventually, with the help of some persuasive mutual friends, I got my way and, armed with a brain full of internet research and a 1996 guidebook, we went to Albania. What a good decision that was.
I‘d read about the dictator Enver Hoxha and his isolationist Maoist politics that dominated the country for fifty years until 1990. I’d heard rumour of the desired “Greater Albania” including parts of all of the neighbouring countries (which, I was told, was a process that began with the removal of Kosovo from Serbia). I’d been led to believe that organized crime was rife. I’d noticed that it was
Dhermi
Fantastic sunsets due to a dry and dusty atmosphere. the third poorest country in Europe (ahead of Moldova and Kosovo). And, I’d heard that there were supposed to be concrete bunkers everywhere.
I was also aware that there were three UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Albania. As well as endless deserted beaches, I’d seen pictures of stunning mountain ranges. I’d heard that the people were incredibly welcoming and fantastic in the kitchen.
Albania certainly is different. Travelling there is unlike travelling anywhere else in Europe. For a start, few people speak English. We got by with a combination of Spanish and Slovene seeing as schools in Albania formerly only taught Italian and Russian as foreign languages and there are sufficient similarities, combined with arm flapping mime, to allow a decent meal to be ordered and directions to be acquired.
I actually enjoyed the communication difficulties. You usually have to travel to parts of Asia or Latin America to experience the same arm flapping, pointing, giggling, mutual bewilderment when all you want is to find a toilet. If ever we really needed an English speaker there was usually a child nearby to help out. English is now taught in schools and obviously successfully given the language ability
Gjirokaster
There are great views from the citadel. of the kids.
Bus travel is more comparable to Africa. There aren’t really bus stations or timetables but there are areas where minibuses (known as furgons) to particular destinations leave from once they are full. In smaller towns we would wait on the roadside knowing that furgons or buses to our required destination would have to pass and then we flagged them down. We never had to wait long, despite warnings by locals that the next bus wasn’t for hours.
The stories about the people are true in that they are very friendly, welcoming and polite. We were invited for a drink by a taxi driver who insisted on paying for everything. We had no shared language at all. When buses make roadside cafe stops, the men will wait and allow the women to board the bus first. After arriving in Berat a woman approached us on the street to say:
“I love you! We love you! Welcome to Albania! We love everybody!”
Our trip took in Tirana, which was much more modern and sophisticated than I expected; Berat, a very pretty little town that can be explored in a morning; Dhermi, a beach that requires
Dhermi
It's true what they say, these bunkers are absolutely everywhere. its own paragraph.
The drive over the Llogara pass is a dramatic one. The way our bus driver negotiated the steep switchbacks restored my confidence in Albanian drivers. I don’t think I would have wanted to tackle that road with one of the furgon driving nutters. In typical Albanian fashion, there are incredible sea views on one side, incredible mountain views on the other, and then you round a bend to see a huge pile of rubbish beside the road.
It is a fair walk down the hill from the junction into Dhermi, especially in super hot August. The place itself is not too nice but the beach is wonderful. Kilometres long, mountain backed, with crystal clear water. The illusion is spoilt slightly when you actually get on the beach. The number of discarded plastic bottles is saddening. It seems that as long as the Albanian tourists can drive their Mercedes’ onto the beach they don’t mind the trash. Did I mention that the only tourists we met anywhere in the country were Albanian? Did I also mention that absolutely everybody in Albania drives a Mercedes?
We went to Albania’s resort town of Sarandë, not really worth
lingering, in order to visit Butrint. Butrint is said to be one of the most valuable archaeological sites in the entire Mediterranean. Most famously a Roman city, it was actually a city long before Roman times and outlived the Romans being in continuous use until just over a century ago.
Gjirokastër was my favourite place in Albania. We didn’t really give it enough time, assuming that it would be very similar to Berat. The castle is worth the climb if only for the views. The old town is unlike anywhere I’ve ever been with very distinctive architecture and many little cafes where you can enjoy great coffee and soak in the place.
“Why Albania?” ...is how I started this blog. You never ask someone who is going on holiday to Greece or Italy or many other Meditteranean countries: “Why Greece?” “Why Italy?” Or “Why Turkey?” And now I know that there is no reason to ask this of Albania either.
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Bardhi
non-member comment
:)
a very very beautiful story, not to mention the photos. I am albanian too from tetovo, Macedonia, but i have never been in Albania! Hope i'll go this year. Many thanks!