Dolomites


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Europe » Italy
June 23rd 2013
Published: October 22nd 2017
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Geo: 46.7034, 12.3504

It would appear the entry I posted on Friday did not appear on line and has disappeared from the app where I draft the entries prior to publishing, so hopefully this extended one will bring you up-to-date on the past week.

Our last couple of days at Innsbruck were so hot (30 degrees plus) and humid that we just pottered about, reading, puzzling, doing chores, passing the time of day with fellow travellers, as you do.

Come Thursday, we left for the comparatively short transfer to our next site. Taking the motorway south via the Brenner Pass, we entered Italy after a drive through stunning scenery featuring alpine meadows littered with chalets. On exiting we headed east, turned right at San Candido (also known as Innichen - many places round here have two names which I guess is due to the close proximity of Austria), and 7 miles later arrived at Camping Park Sexten at about midday.

We were soon pitched, complete with awning, washing in the machine, having lunch, admiring the fantastic mountain view from the caravan. I know we have done mountains earlier in the trip, but the Dolomites are quite spectacular in a different kind of way.

Friday dawned bright and sunny, so over breakfast in the awning the question of 'where are we going today' cropped up. Having looked at Trip Advisor, we plumped for Tre Cime di Lavaredo with the intention of a walk and we were not to be disappointed. There is a toll of €22 for the road up from Misurina to the refugio at the start point at Rifugio Auronzo. It is a popular route for keen road cyclists and we encountered many on the drive up with its many twists and turns.

At the car park, we donned rucksacks and strode off on the clearly defined path with mountain views all around. We paused at the first refugio for cappuccino and cake then took the uphill path to the base of one of the mountains where it then levelled out, mountain to our right and valley to our left, the next refugio in sight up ahead. Although the mountains have pockets of snow, the pathway is for the most part clear, but every now and again a drift of snow crosses the route, sometimes requiring careful negotiation - I was glad of my walking pole!

The refugio was perched up high and was tricky to get to, requiring careful climbing up unofficial rocky steps and several drifts of snow of varying depth and stability, only to find it was closed. Drat - I was hoping to use the loo! I am sure they would have made some useful money charging the €1 a 'go' that they do on some of the motorways in Europe.

After eating our picnic, we continued on the circular route on a path which took us down into the previously mentioned valley and up again. On this stretch of the walk, as well as snow, there were a couple of mountain streams to cross with just the odd stepping stone. One such crossing was very close to Langalm Inn where we paused for a soft drink and to admire the view. Th Inn was a small wooden chalet and they told us that it is not accessible by vehicle with supplies brought in either on their backs or by helicopter.

Refreshed, we took the path on the final leg of the route and encountered a number of marmots - a cross between a beaver and a large guinea pig, I guess. They were quite shy and soon scampered off so not easy to get a pic.

After a tiring but satisfying day, we booked a table at the Taverna, one of several eating places at the site. We both chose pizzas which were very tasty washed down with an Italian red. Good atmosphere too, though some aspects of the remainder of the site could be better. We have not come across any other Brits yet.

Next day, Saturday, we decided to undertake another Trip Advisor recommendation and do part of the long distance cycle path - the Ciclabile della Pusteria - which runs through San Candido en-route to Lienz in Austria. The surface is asphalt, so suitable for our bikes, and understandably popular with families, as well as being relatively flat since it pretty much follows the River Drau. Being the weekend it was quite busy in places, but we cycled some 12 miles before turning back along the same path. It was easy going for David, but three and a half hours in the saddle was more than enough for me! A delightful way to admire the view from a different angle all the same - no pain, no gain, as they say.

After a late lunch back at the 'van, the first distant rumbles of thunder could be heard, and in time it was a full on storm with thunder, lightning and heavy rain (though it always sounds worse in the 'van), not to mention the drop in temperature - a fair cry from Innsbruck. (So glad we did the ride in the morning.) This was the picture for the remainder of the day, but after omelettes for dinner, we resisted putting on the heating and instead got into bed at 9.30 and read, snuggling under the duvet.

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