Sailing Away to Murano and Burano

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We have looked forward to today’s outing ever since we started planning our trip nearly two years ago. We get down to the breakfast room reasonably early to beat the two tour groups staying overnight. We need not have worried. They were early risers, much earlier than us. We leave for the bus stop equipped with pre-purchased tickets and a plan.

Arriving at the bus stop we find our first miscalculation for the day. We missed one bus by 5 minutes, the next one is 20 minutes away. We entertain ourselves wondering what the men are doing in the yard of the bus depot. They are measuring, marking and making chalk lines everywhere. We decide they need an all weather pitch for their lunch time football games and are marking it out.

The bus arrives and in no time we are delivered to the station. There were not many people on the bus today, only three. We decide to purchase a one way ticket this morning so we can stay on the islands for as long as we want. This time we get the fast regional train and arrive at Venice’s St.Lucia station early. We walk quickly to the ferry ticket office. Something is not right. There are no lines of people queuing. People are buying tickets but they are having quite a discussion with the office attendant. Within minutes it is our turn. We hear a word we did not want to hear: “Strike”. “Oh no!”

Best laid plans are falling apart. Turns out there will be a boat to Murano but restricted services to Burano. We are assured we’ll get back. We buy our boat passes and join others waiting for the ferry. It is hot, it is crowded in the waiting area, no one knows when the boat will turn up, and sweat is starting to run down our glasses like waterfalls. Eventually a boat arrives and we manage to find two single seats some distance apart. We look around for life jackets, just in case, wait for the non existent safety briefing. All appears to be well.

The journey starts by negotiating water traffic up a canal. Takes us back to the jostling for a position in Catania, only difference this is on water. The boat edges through the traffic with a series of forward and reverse manoeuvres and is soon in open water. Bow waves cream past the windows, not the nice blue of the Mediterranean but kakhi brown. It doesn’t take long and we arrive on the island of Murano. There are so few people around. Hot and thirsty we find our way into a food and drink establishment for a cold drink.

Shop owners are out on the footpath trying to entice customers into their establishments. We talk to one who explains today is a disaster because of the strike. Tour groups and cruise ship passengers are staying away. They won’t get much out of the Kiwi pockets so the island’s profit margin will take a hit. On a positive note it is easy to walk around without the manic crowds everywhere. We window shop and even venture into some shops to view the exquisite art pieces made of glass. Amazing what these craftsmen and women can do with a piece of molten glass. The colours and the shapes are just wonderful.

After a good look around we decide it is time to take the ferry to Burano. With the strike on there is not the usual timetable, just an intermittent ferry service. We join another large group of people waiting for a ferry. Some ferries come but not for Burano. “It will be along soon”, we are told. After waiting awhile the touring group have a consultation. How long do we wait to get to Burano and once there how and when do we get back? It is very hot and very humid and our patience is getting a little thin so we decide enough is enough. We have enjoyed Murano but it’s time to cut our losses. Back at our disembarkation point a ferry turns up. “No, there will be no ferry to Ferrovia (by the train station) today. You will walk or swim”. We get on and hope. We are dropped off in Venice as far from the station as you can get and then we walk.

The bar that offered respite from the crowds and heat was a welcome stop. By now we were hot, tired and hungry. Sprite, beer and half a panini each went down a treat. Now we are ready to do battle with the crowds. We follow a route that takes us around the Grand Canal, missing the congestion of the Rialto Bridge. Coming towards us are swarms of new arrivals dragging cases and looking for their accommodation. What a relief to get to the station even though it is much earlier than we had planned.

Buying a ticket is easy from the self service kiosk. The first instruction in English warns against pick pockets. The second instruction warns against accepting help from anyone but a railway official. Next to us is a group of travellers trying to solve the mysteries of the machine with a woman offering help in exchange for money. We are wise and experienced so there is no joy from us. Tickets in hand we make an early train for the trip back to Padova and then the bus to the hotel.

We lie back on the bed and reflect. Yes we are pleased with our outing but disappointed that circumstances were beyond our control. Burano will have to wait for another day. We leave Padova tomorrow with some wonderful memories of our visit to Venice but now we look forward to the peacefulness of the Dolomites.

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Photos

Venice
On the way to Murano

Venice
The island cemetery

Murano
A glass sculpture