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Published: September 7th 2014
We woke fairly late for us 8 am and ate a leisurely breakfast of croissants and cereal before walking down to Garda for the boat to Sirmione. As we were early we bought our ticket an ordinario viaggatori for me at 9 euros 80 and cheaper Terza Eta ticket of 8 euro 30 for Glenn . We guessed that Terza Eta probably meant third age. Much nicer than old age pensioner or senior citizen.
We spent the next 20 minutes drinking coffee waiting for the boat to arrive and watching the goings on in the local market. It reminded me of Mold market heaving with locals purchasing their vegetables and fruit, shoes, handbags, blingy jewellery and shoes. A thriving market and fun to see.
We always seem to meet interesting people on our travels and today was no exception. I fell into conversation with a lady who was having trouble working out which toilet to use and had found herself in the mens. On the way back she told me she came from Hunstone just up the road from where we live and her husband had played professional football for Everton and Chesterfield Town in the late 1950’s. Glenn
spent the best part of an hour reminiscing on players which included the great Gordon Banks England goalkeeper who spent part of his playing career at Chesterfield.. Our new friend .knew him and had played alongside him. They were a lovely couple in their late 70’s and usually spent holidays on ocean going cruise ships. Their last holiday was a cruise down the Rhine and this holiday was going to be something different for them. I guess when his wife was younger she must have been an Evertonian wag if there was such a thing in the 1950’s. We wished them goodbye as we approached Sirmione. Talking to them had made the journey pass quickly. We had thought that it would be like the slow boat to China on the ordinary boats that ply their trade on the lake and had hoped to catch the fast catamaran. In the end it didn’t seem to matter. When talking time passes quickly and enjoyably.
A different kettle of fish to both Garda and Bardolino was Sirmione. Busier and more of a hive of activity. Most people spilled off the boat and into the many restaurants and cafes that lined the streets.
We avoided them with difficulty and headed for the castle set on the pretty lakeside. Cost to go in 4 euros each with no reductions unless you were an EU citizen under 25. Not a lot inside but the views across the lake were stunning. And the views from the top of the tower even more incredible and well worth the hike of 169 steps to the top. The castle known as the Scaliger Castle was built in the 13th century is a rare example of medieval port fortification, which was used by the Scaliger fleet The building of this complex started in 1277 by Mastino della Scala. It presents the typical swallowtail battlements and the curtain-walls (with three corner towers) in pebbles alternating with two horizontal bands of brick courses. The walls on the inside were finished with plaster with graffiti, simulating blocks of stone. The castle stands at a strategic place at the entrance to the peninsula. It is surrounded by a moat and it can only be entered by two drawbridges. The castle was established mainly as a protection against enemies, but also against the locals. it was probably one of the most prettiest castles we have
been to and fulfilled all our hopes for the day trip.
From here we walked up the medieval streets lined with shops to the Grotto of Catulus . Set on the promontory it is a prime piece of real estate. We could well imagine Catulus's coming to the spot seeing some locals living there and saying “ Right chaps – heres the spot. A picture perfect view out of my front windows - just the place to write my poetry. “ the fact that someone probably lived there was beyond his comprehension and it would be “ Peasants -Off with you, I fancy this bit for my house . Go and find yourself somewhere else less stunning . This is mine” And he built and built and built . An ever growing villa on top of the cliff. For 12 euros for the two of us we saw the small museum which was full of a collection of Roman coins, artefacts found on the site, mosaics and roman tombstones. The site itself is sprawling and it is easy to imagine why he wanted to build his villa here.
Room after room , view after view. The place was
stunning and there weren't many people there. Perhaps roman remains don't always inspire and it is a long walk. It inspired us with its views over the lake and its high walls built of brick. It rivalled anything we had seen in Rome. The Romans knew how to build and you couldn’t fault this location or building. We just felt for the natives who would have had to put up with their loud and demanding neighbour. This is one of the beauties of a motorhome holiday you can do the castles, the roman remains and everything else in between.
On our way down we stopped for a coke and a panini before the walk back. It was possible to get the little train back but that was for wimps and wimps we are not. It was tempting though.
In the town we sat for a while on a wall watching the world go by eating our vanilla and fruits of the forest ice creams. Relaxing to the sound of the many ducks that frequented the harbour. Glenns ice cream a vanilla was fine. Jus the right size 3 euros worth. I picked a cone with nuts and this
was filled with scoop after scoop of icecream. 7 euros later I had a mountain of an ice cream that I knew would mostly end up in the bin. Reminder to myself not to be so greedy next time. I blamed it on being lost in translation. Well you have to try something to excuse yourself don’t you?
Did we like Sirmione? Yes we did. We didn’t want to go home so it was where to next ? It is a lovely place but then Lake Garda is lovely anywhere just some places are more beautiful than others. Where to go next? Well we fancied Gardone across the lake, Malcesine and Limone in the north. They were a long way up and we needed an early catamaran to visit so perhaps that will be tomorrow or if not well we have left something to come back to.
In the end we chose another lakeside town Lazise. Just 15 minutes up the coast the cost was 5 euros for me and 4 for my cheap third age companion.
Onto the boat which was heaving and looked as if full to capacity and listing. Packed in like
sardines we sailed the short distance from Sirmione to Lazise. Our new found friends from the boat this morning were already on but as they were on a full lower deck we had no chance to talk to them. They stayed on for Bardolino whilst we disembarked for an hour or so walk around Lazise.
Disembarking at Lazise the first thing you notice is that it is not as busy as Sirmione. Probably similar in size to Garda and with the same amount of visitors. The second thing is the castle. Almost identical to the one in Sirmione but this one in poorer repair. one. Unfortunately this one cannot be visited and had to be viewed from the outside only. But it was impressive
We sat for a while in a café drinking beer and wine under umberellas as it was now getting hotter and hotter. In search of some coolness we called in to the church dedicated to St Nicholas and the church for sailors. Empty it was a dark cool and gloomy place which had been desecrated by Napoleon. It was only in the 1950’s that the town had taken over the church and returned it
to its proper use .
Our final stop to find a house we had intended to hire in 2011. A tower built in to the walls should have been relatively easy to find. We walked one way – no sign on it. Turned round and retraced our steps and there it was . Three stories with windows opening out on to the lake. A roof patio so definitely the right one. Why didn’t we hire it? Well two reasons. The first the lounge and bedrooms were in the tower. The kitchen and toilet in another tower with separate access. Not the best of arrangements. And to make it worse it was the year after the Icelandic volcano episode and we were not keen on flying . Jet 2 had also changed our seats and we felt annoyed with them so we bit the bullet, lost the flight and decided to head off in the car to France. It was nice to see the tower and perhaps it would have made a nice holiday but ah well sometimes you make decisions and have to stick by them.
On our way home we fell into conversation with a lovely lady,
her son who was a Downs sufferer and their dog. The young lad who spoke good English put us to shame as he told us he was on holiday with his mum and dad and Scotty the dog. His dad had a grey car and he had learnt English in school. I had to admit we were poor at languages and despite trying our hands at French and a little bit of German in grammar school we had both failed miserably. He, his mum, dad and the nutty brown dog were a delight to speak to. And it was with some sadness we took our leave of them and left the boat at Garda and took off for our walk home to Suzy.
It was yet another noisy night. Our German neighbours were sitting outside with their computer which had been used as a TV and we had to listen to German TV all night. We were hemmed in by a Dutch couple who had arrived and parked their tent up on the corner . I guess these two things put the cap on it and we decided that we needed to get away tomorrow. It was another noisy night much the same as the night before and another noisy morning. We paid up 62 euros for two nights. ACSI was not starting until the 10
th September. Hardly worth it as the season will end at the end of the month. I queued to pay and the receptionist looked through me and took a card from the guy behind me. Another receptionist turned up and he ignored me and dealt with the lady behind me. Was I invisible? Eventually money taken we hit the road with a feeling of relief and with the hope our next stop would be better and quieter. Some you win and some you lose. But as Arnold said "We will be back"
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D MJ Binkley
Dave and Merry Jo Binkley
Nice shot
Very artsy