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Published: August 16th 2005
Flying high
A view of the Swiss Alps on the way to RomeThe Holiday: Day One
Gregory Peck and Audrey Hepburn immortalised the city in the black & white romance of the 50s. Fifty-odd years later, my husband and I board an early morning Ryan Air flight to Ciampiano- Rome’s third airport and the hub for low cost carriers in Europe, for our very own ‘in colour’ version of a romantic and adventure filled 4 day break. It is also important to note that I have just finished reading Dan Brown’s ‘Angels and Demons’ which has only heightened my interest in the city. (For the benefit of those who are planning European holidays, there are great deals available through Ryan Air during this period).
Stansted airport is well connected to London by Terravision as well as the National Express. For the latter, you can either book online or simply buy the ticket when you board the bus. For timings check their website: www.nationalexpress.com.
It is a two hour hop across London to Rome and it’s a beautifully clear day. Inspite of being a budget airline (and the fact that you have to buy your own water), the flight is comfortable and the crew polite. On landing, we take the Terravision bus
In the Holy See
St Peter's Basilica into the city (£20 return for two). The bus drops us of at Termini Station, quite clearly the heart of the bustling city. By the time we are Termini it is already 4:00 in the evening and two hungry tourists head straight for the nearest food joint - a Tex Mex restaurant located inside Termini. A bottle of wine, some nachos and some good Italian meat and the two of us, satiated, make our way to the Metro.
The first thing that strikes me about the city is that it is very sunny and very crowded. I feel like I am in Delhi and the thought is comforting. It is neither spic and span like London nor does it have buildings that are trendy like the ones in Amsterdam. It is difficult to imagine the city as the capital of one of the world’s developed countries - through its appearance. But don’t let that fool you. Trains and buses run on time. Infrastructure is comparable to any other western city. One big advantage is the people of Rome. If you stop a passer-by and ask for directions and he/ she doesn’t understand English - don’t despair. They will either
Inside St Peter's
Michelangelo's Pieta wildly gesticulate, ensuring you understand how you need to get to where you are headed, or will pull someone out of the crowd who does speak English to help you out. And if required they will walk you to your destination.
The Metro in Rome is very unlike the London Underground. It has only two lines (Linea A and Linea B) that run across the city. The trains are quite old and always jam packed, which only means that despite having just two lines, the city relies quite a bit on the Metro. Remember, Rome stays ‘touristy’ through the year and pilgrims are always visiting; thus ensuring that the Metro is always crowded. The good thing is that a three day pass costs just 11 euros and is accepted on all bus routes as well. Additionally, if you are okay with a bit of walking (Metro stops are not easy to locate, are at a distance from each other and English is not widely spoken), then the Metro should suit you. It is advisable to carry a city map with you and to understand how the buses work. However, each Metro stop explains quite clearly where you are. For
e.g., at Berbirini, you know that you are near the Trevi Fountain and at Spagna, you are near the Spanish Steps.
Eating out in Rome can be perplexing. Yes, there are the pizzas, the pasta and the wine. But be careful not to eat in areas which are right next to a tourist attraction as these tend to be very expensive. Walk ten more minutes and your food bill could go down by 50%. Also, most Italian cafes will place a platter before you with the wine. Check if there is a charge before you dig in. Most places offer reasonable house wine, but Italian draught beer isn’t bad either. While ordering a meal for two, remembering pasta and pizza can be quite heavy despite the seemingly small servings. Therefore, an appetizer or starter with a main course dish should ideally suffice for two. Chocolate truffles available at most cafes are highly recommended. What I enjoy with my red wine is bread dipped in olive oil and salt…may sound crazy but do give it a shot.
Shopping in Rome can be an adventure. I presume many of us will steer clear of the A-list designer brands such as
The Roman Forum
The Arch of Constantine Prada or Bvglari. You may want to check some European brands such as Mango and Zara, which may just be cheaper in Rome. The designs are a little different too so girls, go for some trendy European styles! If you want to pick up a handbag or shoes, be careful about where you go. Some stores may sell great designs but quality may be suspect. However, most stores are honest about the ‘material’ being used (i.e. leather or rexene).
After lunch at Termini it takes us an hour to get to our hotel - Jolly Hotel Midas. The deal is again through lastminute.com and for three nights with breakfast, we are paying well under £200. Located at a distance from the city centre, the four-star hotel is comfortable and the service prompt and polite. The room is beautiful with a balcony overlooking the swimming pool. Having unpacked, we decide to rest for an hour and then head out to the Spanish Steps at 7:00. However, we wake up only at 10:00pm and ravenous, we order two soups from the hotel kitchen and hit the sack again. It has been an interesting and tiring day and both of us can’t
All Lit up
The Forum by night wait for Day Two.
What to see: Day Two
For a city that has something to offer at almost every corner, Sudeep and I take our time to wake up and have breakfast. We take the 9:30 free shuttle service that the hotel offers (at every hour) to the city centre - Piazza Cavour. From the Piazza, we decide to get to the Vatican - first things first. The main entrance to the city is guarded and only those with permits are allowed in. Walk a little further to get to St Peter’s Basilica.
St Peter’s Basilica
Vatican City or the Holy See is a must for anyone visiting the city. The tall semi-circular sections, adorned by pillars (as our guide Ryan tells us) were meant by the architect to be like welcoming arms so as to not overwhelm the visitor or the pilgrim. Entrance to St Peter’s is free.
At the entrance to the Basilica are the famed Swiss Guards. The Swiss Guards have the honour of protecting the Vatican as they remained faithful to Pope Clement VII during his escape to Castle Sant’Angelo. Of the 189 Swiss Guards, only 42 survived. Which is why, to
Piazza Venezia
The Victor Emmanuel Monument this day, the Swiss Guard have the honour of guarding the Vatican.
When the tradition began all Swiss Guards were expected to be 6 ft tall and proficient in five languages. This has since been relaxed to 5 ft and a working knowledge of five languages. I, on my part, manage a photograph with the Guards somewhere in the distant background.
While we walk around the Basilica area, looking at the magnificent Christmas tree being decorated right next to the Obelisk (the last thing St Peter saw before he died), we are invited to join a free tour in English.
Ryan is an American student studying classical history in Rome and I have to admit - without him, something would have been missing. He brings in humour and personal elements into the tour that any audio guide would lack (having used audio guides extensively across Asia and Europe, I can vouch for this.). Therefore, a big thank you to Ryan and also to Susie who was our guide on the Forum tour.
(This is one thing that again was new to me - apparently it is quite common in Paris as well - students studying classical
history/ literature also double up as guides in their free time. They don’t charge a fee and you don’t ‘have to’ give them anything at the end of the tour. They usually bring a lot of humour and local flavour into the tour and answer loads and loads of questions quite willingly.)
Emperor Constantine, the first Christian emperor of Rome, ordered that a basilica be built on Vatican Hill in 64 AD, where St Peter was buried after being crucified (upside down) by the Roman Emperor Nero. A restoration of the church was later ordered by Pope Nicolas in the 15th century, the architects for the restoration being Bramante and Michelangelo.
Keep aside at least two hours for the Basilica. And if you are unable to find Ryan or another guide, do get an audio guide. The monument, completed in the 17th century, is a treasure house of sculptures, frescos and a tremendous amount of history.
You can walk down to the basement and have a look at St Peters mausoleum, or can take the elevator upto the top of the magnificent dome created by Michelangelo. Other attractions include the amazing Pieta by Michelangelo and Bernini’s masterpieces
Piazza Novona
The Fountain of the Four Rivers - the bronze artwork, the Throne of St Peter or the many funeral processions created for the many Papal heads of the Catholic Church.
St Peter’s is the largest Catholic Church in the world and, even in its opulence and grandeur, does not lose any of its spirituality.
The Colosseum
If it is just one thing that symbolises Rome, and perhaps Italy, to the world, it is the Colosseum. Listed as one of the seven wonders of the world, the Colosseum reveals itself just as you step out of the Metro station Colosseo. The first sight takes your breath away. It is a huge structure and justifies its place among the great architectural feats of the world. Currently undergoing renovation, entrance costs 10 euros a head and audio tours are also available.
Walking around the area, one can almost touch history 2000 years old. Scenes from Ben Hur and Gladiator come to mind. The Colosseum or Flavian Amphitheater was begun by Vespasian, inaugurated by Titus in 80 A.D. and completed by Domitian. It was designed to seat over 50,000 spectators for sports, beheadings and everything else in between.
It is interesting to note that the marble
from the Colosseum (as with other pagan sites such as the Pantheon and the Forum) was stripped off to provide raw material for St. Peter’s. The Italian cultural ministry has undertaken a significant amount of restoration across Rome and this includes the Colosseum.
While we decide to visit the Forum, we take a wrong turn and end up at Michelangelo’s beautiful Piazza del Campidoglio. Before I get into that, remember that the Roman Forum is only a stone’s throw from the Colosseum, a few yards from the Arch of Constantine. (More on the Forum in Day Two).
Piazza Campidoglio
Located on Capitoline Hill, Michelangelo’s Piazza or the Piazza del Campidoglio is a celebration and typifies Renaissance. It also showcases Michelangelo’s skills as a town planner. Tall, magnificent statues of muscular men and animals such as lions and horses surround the grand buildings encircling the Piazza. By the time we are at the Piazza, it is dark and we get a magnificent view of the Piazza all lit up - seems to add to the grandeur and richness of the place.
Capitoline Hill was the original capital of the ancient city. It today houses the Musei Capitolini which
The Roads of Rome
Along the Roman Skyline contains the largest collection of classical statues in the world (we didn’t go in). Entry is open up until 8PM (closed on Mondays).
On the right hand side of the Piazza, just a few minutes walk is the grand Victor Emmanuel Monument (which is currently being renovated). Do not miss the façade of the building and if you have time, at around 8:30 every night, is the change of guards. The guards protect the eternal flame of the city of Rome (which was originally in the Forum).
Both the Capitoline Hill and the Victor Emmanuel Monument are worth seeing at night as they are beautifully lit up. Don’t forget to take a walk on the left of the Piazza where we have the Theatre of Marcello where during the Renaissance, a palace was built right on top of this majestic building.
The Pantheon
Built as a Pagan Roman Temple and later consecrated as a Catholic church (as many other pagan buildings in the city), the Pantheon today is right in the middle of a busy Roman market - Piazza della Rotonda. The great maestro Rafael is buried here as are many Italian kings.
Even though it’s
The City of God
Santa Maria's Basilica not too well lit and its marble stripped off centuries ago, the Pantheon stands tall and proud as the most complete Roman structure on earth, having survived 20 centuries of plunder, pillage and invasion.
It is said that Bernini’s famous bronze works used the bronze from the Pantheon and therefore the saying ‘What the Barbarians couldn’t do, Barberini did’ - with reference to the fact that Barberini was the Pope who authorised use of bronze from the Pantheon when Bernini ran out of his original supply.
It is a pity that there were no audio guides available (entry is free) and there are no boards explaining the beautiful paintings and frescos that reside inside the temple/ church. However, this does not deter visitors from thronging the place and cafes and bars are all over the place. Once again, be careful of where you end up eating or drinking as some bars in the area can be expensive.
Trevi Fountain
At walking distance from the Pantheon is Nicola Salvi's (often attributed to Bernini) baroque masterpiece - the Trevi Fountain. Whenever you go, you will find a crowd - of couples, families, tourists and hawkers thronging the fountain area.
At the heart of art
Celing works at the Vatican Museum The fountain sculpture is dominated by the Arch of Triumph and Corinthian columns.
It is often said that the fountain may not be the most beautiful in Rome but it is the most famous. Legend has it that if you stand with your back to the fountain and throw a coin then you will come back to Rome. If you throw two coins in then you will meet the passion of your life (what happens to your current passion is anyone’s guess) and if you throw three coins then anything that you wish for will be fulfilled.
Whether or not this is true, Trevi fountain is worth a visit - for Nicola Salvi and also to get a glimpse into Rome’s everyday life.
Some more walking: Day Three
Sistine Chapel and the Vatican Museum
Day Three begins with the Sistine Chapel and the Vatican Museum. Be at the entry gate to purchase your ticket (12 euros per head) by 8:45 else it gets crowded at you will not be able to get in. Also, if you are on a short trip to Rome, then it is advisable to do the Vatican Museum and the Sistine Chapel first as entrance to these two closes at 11:45. Also check whether the two are open for public viewing on Sundays. On some Sundays, entry is free to the public so avoid these days completely as the whole of Rome and adjoining areas will be there! Keep a good 3 hours for a decent look at the museum and the chapel and do pick up an audio guide.
The Vatican Museum leads to the Sistine Chapel and the museum is divided based on the apartments of the different Popes. The ceilings are breathtaking - containing frescos primarily from the Renaissance (Michelangelo did only the Sistine Chapel). The Rafael rooms deserve a special mention.
It is said that if you were to spend just a minute looking at every single work of art on display at the Vatican Museum, you would be in there for 14 years. So prioritise. It is easy as you walk from one chamber to another which finally leads into the Chapel.
On entering the Chapel, in spite of the milieu, a feeling of calm descends over you. The work on the ceiling is breathtaking as it the main work on the chapel background - The Last Judgement. Do look out for Michelangelo’s depiction of himself in this masterpiece.
Photography and video are not permitted inside the chapel but you can use it anywhere outside the chapel. The museum also has a great souvenir store.
The Forum
For me, this was the highlight of our visit. Though in ruins now, the Roman Forum has its own story to tell and with a good guide, the captivating Susie (Discover Rome : Ph - +39 349 8726 943); you can get a glimpse of every day Roman life.
Entry to the Forum starts with two grand victory arches - the first one being the arch of Constantine. The second one, that of Titus, was built by the Jewish slaves brought in after the ransacking of Jerusalem. One of the more (in)famous people to have walked through the arch was Hitler who thought the arch was particularly beautiful as one of the reliefs on the arch shows the sacking of Jerusalem.
The Forum also houses some beautiful pagan temples (one of them built by a Roman emperor as a tribute to his beautiful wife) as well as the temple of the Vestal Virgins. The story of the Vestal Virgins is quite interesting. The virgins were beautiful young girls between the ages of 6 and 10 (normally from rich families but beauty being the chief criteria) who were selected up for 30 years to tend to the eternal flame (the same one that’s now at the Victor Emmanuel monument. After 30 years, they were married off by the senate and given quite a huge dowry. If any of them lost their virginity while still tending the flame (6 in 2000 years did), they were buried alive. The male offender had his skin torn apart by metal chains. If, on the other hand, they were unable to tend to the flame properly, they were given an ever so slight spanking (more for the humiliation that to inflict pain) in the public square.
Julius Caesar’s cremation ground is also in the Forum - it was originally a marble building but like others, the marble was used for some of the Renaissance buildings. Susie tells us that when Julius Caesar was cremated, men and women were so overcome by grief that they tossed jewels and weapons into the funeral pyre. Between 8 and 40 people, including his adopted son Brutus, stabbed Julius Caesar to death. Brutus later fled Rome, but his fate eventually caught up with him and he was murdered four years later.
The Spanish Steps
Situated a stone’s throw from Spagna Metro station and on the Piazza Spagna, the Spanish Steps have a mere 135 steps. The steps were built with French funds to link the Spanish Embassy to the Holy See.
The Spanish Steps are the equivalent of London’s Trafalgar Square or New Delhi’s India Gate. The steps overlook several trendy boutiques - including Dior, Cavalli, Prada, Gucci and Bvlgari. Even if you don’t have the funds (like me), do take a walk and indulge yourself in some serious window shopping.
The night we were at the Spanish Steps, the locals were observing the death anniversary of a student who was murdered some time ago. They now use the occasion to urge people to donate their organs. The ceremony is marked by a band and a flag performance as well as a routine by children on the Piazza. Crowds follow the band holding bulbs in the shape of hearts.
Rome by night
You may want to do this. The tour lasts 2 hours and costs 32 euros per person. While the tour is advertised as being in English, the tour guide is proficient in French, German and Spanish. Most hotels would be able to offer you details on this tour.
What was useful about the tour was seeing the places we were planning to skip - such as the Castel St Angelo, which was earlier Hadrian’s palace, and the Fountain of the Four Rivers.
If you do not take this tour, do take time to get to Piazza Novona and visit Bernini’s Fountain of the Four Rivers (the four rivers: Ganges, Nile, Danube and Rio de la Plata - representing the four corners of the world). If you get there before Christmas, the Piazza holds an interesting Xmas market. Here too, you will find a huge Obelisk at the top of which is the Papal dove.
Its time to say Ciao: Day Four
Day four begins with checking out and getting to Termini where we deposit our bags. Though not as hi-tech as the bag deposit system at Centraal in Amsterdam, it is convenient (though you may need to queue up for a bit) and cheap.
A trip to the catacombs is planned but we decide to take it easy and stroll instead (for my dead feet, that is not good news at all). We walk down to Santa Maria’s basilica and indulge in some feet therapy and photography. Some more window shopping, a hunt for the eternal ‘perfect’ bag ends in failure.
We can’t say that about our Roman holiday though. The city merits another visit.
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Gracie
Hi there.. I'm not sure if i've spelt the Italian word for Thank you right, but your blog was great reading and packed with lots of useful information in a breezy style! Have added your blog to my favourites. We had a lovely time at Rome, though Trevi is closed in winter, the views were great. One place I would recommend for your next visit is the Catacombs. Until later, Ciao.