Italy, 1998

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Rome has always been a place of fascination dating back to my history classes when I was but 7 years old. I did study European history past high school focusing on the rise and fall of colonial powers like the Roman Empire, England etc. Rome's conquests were vast spreading into Africa. In it's regional restlessness and the varying history of continental Europe, the Roman Empire stands undefeated and a monument to scale and stability. At the peak of it's might, the Roman empire stretched from Syria to Scotland and much of the western world, and for 700 years or more, she ruled vast dominions. With this influence came a history that we now seek in our travels and find but ruins on the ground. Two things take my fancy when I travel to Europe besides the landscape; art and architecture. The architecture and art of Rome and its empire, which at its peak in might did go as far as the the Caspian Sea. The end of Roman art and the beginning of medieval art is said to have taken place during the conversion of the emperor Constantine to Christianity, and during the time when the capital of the Roman empire was moved from Rome to Constantinople. When I first visited Rome in 1998, my main focus was to visit the seat of my faith (I was born Catholic), Vatican City. St. Peter;s Basilica is an art of it's own with architectural style that is in it's own category.

With time, as the Roman Empire expanded throughout Italy and the Mediterranean exposing the Romans to other artistic cultures especially that of the Greece, Roman art shook off its dependence on Etruscan art. Because of the extraordinary geographical extent of the Roman Empire coupled with the diversity of the population within it's boundaries, the art and architecture of the Romans is characterized by varying styles from differing regional tastes and the diverse preferences of a wide range of patrons.

Largo di Garda (Lake Garda)

Located in northern Italy, Lake Garda presents a calm serene environment of mountains and Lake water. Lake Garda is between Venice and Milan and is known to be part of the western Lombardy region with Veneto neighboring on the east. Situated at the foot of the Alps, in a beautiful area of southern Europe. In the summer of 1998 my boyfriend Peter, his daughter Helen and I went on a tour of Western Europe beginning with Germany, Austria and Italy being the third country along the way. Our drive from Salzburg brought us into northern Italy through Innsbruck. The winding mountain roads revealing nature’s beauty at it’s best. We entered Italy from the north making our first stop in “Largo di Garda” Italian for Lake Garda. Lake Garda I found out then, is one of Italy’s most visited lakes. Quite a big lake running almost seventeen kilometers wide: the road around the lake have a breath taking view of the surrounding villages, castles and the shore line hotels, café’s. Lake Garda I have found is relatively unknown to Americans travelers, even amongst those familiar with it's Northern neighboring lake Como. The lake’s scenery are post card scenes and the accommodation is affordable and the food is something of soul food nature. There are a lot of Italians, Germans and Swiss families vacationing at Lake Garda. Beginning with the town of Garda, the area transforms from theme park thrills into quiet Mediterranean style villages, Roman ruins, and 15th generation families protecting the warm turquoise lake. I desperately wanted to spend at least a few more day in Lake garda, but my straight forward German boyfriend in his firm, coarse German accent assured me there was more to see a long the way and since time was not on our side, one night in Garda would suffice.

Limone Sul Garda:

We left Lake Garda (Largo di garda) and headed north along the beautiful roads to the town of Limone (Limone sul garda). Limone sits on a narrow strip of land at the foot of the tall, rocky cliffs north of the Limone Riviera, with unbelievable scenes of mountain and water. It feels like being in a dream land, paradise if I may. Peter told me that I the past the only access to Limone was from the mountains or from the lake, its economy solely on fishing and on olive and lemon-growing (it is the northernmost area where citrus fruits can be grown), thus the name Limone (Italian for Lemon). This town has an old economy evident in it's hot houses where lemons were grown in the past and the intriguing fishing port that can still be seen. I must say I ate fish in a style I do not believe I shall ever eat again unless I return to Limone. Lucky for Helen and I, Peter is a fine dinning guy and loves good wine, so we dined like there was no tomorrow. Of course he knew his way around this little town so we did not need a guide nor ask questions like the typical tourist would.The pillars and walls of the lemon houses (the typical hot-houses where lemons were grown) and the charming fishing port that can still be seen today are echoes of this old economy.In 1932 Limone was officially connected to its neighboring towns when the picturesque Gardesana Occidentale Road was completed and years of isolation and separation were ended. The town is now one of the most popular, well-equipped tourist towns of Lake Garda region, but it has preserved its small-town charm which makes it even the more attractive. The narrow streets, ports, ancient homes and lush vegetation makes it an absolute must see.

Lerici:

Lerici is beautiful, romantic and the perfect honeymoon getaway: Lerici was not a recommendation from anyone, in fact it was just one of our stops for the evening on the long drive from Austria. I must admit I was intrigued with this little town with so much character. we arrived in the late afternoon and it was very busy with foreigners/ tourists like us. Talk of Italian, this town is as Italian as it gets: it's worth it. The view across the bay to Portovenere is just fabulous. The town is built into the hills and below is the lake with an awesome view on a moonstruck night like the one we visited on. Lerici is a typical European beach with a very Italian style, filled with very civilized visitors, full of life and the service and catering well for families with young children, with little play areas along the seafront as you come into town and a carousel. Helen joined the little children to play as soon as we arrived.

Arena di Verona:

Following the road that will lead to Rome, Peter the driver whisked us away from Lerici where we had spent quite an endearing time drinking wine for breakfast and eating fish at each meal. We headed down then up and down again through the most breath taking views of mountains and winding roads to Verona. Verona I learned much about from studying Literature and the plays of Shakespeare: well known for the set of the famous “Romeo and Juliet” Verona is historical that way. During the Roman empire (this is the historian in me coming out), Verona was one of the most powerful cities and is, in my opinion one of the best well kept Roman cities. Because of it's proximity to Venice and Milan, I found that many people will drive right past it. Peter wanted to do the same, but I insisted on stopping, we had a great big argument later because we could not make it to our next destination. But the fight was well worth it because I had an incredible time in this city. I shall endeavour to scan some of those old photos I took while in Verona.

We found very few people in the city (well tourists). Peter kept telling me the way I did not want to 'waste' time in Verona, let's go to Venice he insisted. I stood my ground and involuntarily Peter came along to see what he later called the most 'beautiful sights' hehad ever seen in Italy. We went to see the mausoleum of Arche Scaligere houses, the tombs and giant iron gates that freaked Helen out. What I really wanted to see in Verona was the arena. The Arena di Verona is the third largest arena in Italy, and you should not pass the chance to stop there is you are sightseeing in Verona. When I write reviews, I normally caution people who are biased to have an open mind because what one person claims to be awful, you may find absolutely stunning. DO TAKE TIME TO VISIT VERONA, you will not regret it. Despite being constructed in 30 AD, much of the original architecture remains, and the amphitheater still houses opera productions throughout the summer, unfortunately we did not have time to watch any of the plays.Our last stop was the great military fortress of Castelvecchio, which has been turned into an art museum, renowned for providing shelter to many significant works of art in a strictly medieval setting. If you are an art lover, this is certainly a 'candy store' for the art lover.

Basilica di Santa Maria del Fiorre - Firenze:

We arrived in Florence in the afternoon a little later than we should have, so we did not take the typical Florence walking tours which are considered as part of a visit to this city. Peter had been here more than once and he assured me there was only one place I wanted to goo before I can start seeing the rest of the city. Helen was pretty tired by now and she did not want to walk: I could only carry her so long before I tire of her weight. Peter took us to a restaurant first to eat and rest from the long journey; after a hearty meal, Helen seemed to be so much revived and ready to play with the pigeons. We started at the Accademia, where the statute of David by Michelangelo has been for over 500 years. Then we proceeded to the famous Duomo, where Helen could not stop feeding the so many pigeons outside the duomo. This duomo also called the Basilica di Santa Maria del Fiore, was designed by Arnolfo di Cambio, it ranks third largest after St. Peter's basilica in Rome and Saint Paul's cathedral in London. By the time it was completed in the 1400s, it was the largest cathedral in the whole of Europe. Built on the ancient sacred area of the Roman castrum, the Basilica of Santa Reparata, together with a number of other religious buildings, formed the original nucleus of what was to become the religious heart of today's Florence. There was almost certainly a Baptistery as evidence of the ancient connection with the Cathedral. The Basilica of Santa Reparata was remodeled and enlarged to include the baptistery and was probably entirely rebuilt to become what we can see today. In that same period, the city's walls were enlarged in great proportions. The Palazzo Vecchio was built and so were two monumental churches including the Santa Maria Novella and Santa Croce. We did not stop in Bologna as we were pressed for time, we went passed it and wished we had more time on our hands . . .

San Marino:

This was our stop for the day after driving a little over 14 hours. It was busy as you can imagine and we had no hotel reservations, Peter had been confident that if we arrived early enough, we would not need a reservation. well we did not, it was approaching 7:15 pm when we arrived and many were returning from work, tourists from the beaches while others were headed for dinner. San Marino is surrounded by Italy, It is situated in the Apennines, a little inland from the Adriatic Sea near Rimini. San Marino is a state of it's own, with a history of independence dating back to 301 A.D. It's certainly the smallest country you're likely to visit; with it's own currency and governance, the total area is about 16 square kilometers only.

The state is predominantly vegetated by tall limestone Monte Titano. From Florence we drove east to get to San Marino, it was not a long drive at all, Peter wanted to be near the sea and was confident I would love Rimini. We did not get to see much of San Marino as this was only our overnight stop en route to Rome. The little we saw was beautiful and historical; It has a well kept medieval center with museums, narrow streets and churches from another time altogether. Each of the peaks has its own beautiful and medieval castle or fortress. The Palazzo Publico features a costumed changing of the guard and Basilica del Santo contains reliquaries and religious artifacts, you can not drive here, cars are not allowed. For the tourist I would certainly recommend touring the three fortresses; the castles are perched along the cliffs of Monte Titano, where they offer panoramic views of the local countryside, the Italian resort of Rimini, and the Adriatic coast. Did you know that Mount titano is a UNESCO world heritage? well it is.

Roma:

As far back as elementary school, I remembered two popular sayings about Italy: "when in Rome, do as the Romans do", and "Give unto Caesar what is Caesar's and to God what belongs to God". Not only is this Roman, but it a popular Christian verse that I debated during my high school years studying divinity as a subject on it's own. I can still remember as if it were yesterday when my girlfriend Margaret challenged me on the topic of Christian values versus traditions of right and wrong. I was forced to explain my understanding of what I thought was natural and self explanatory: my view and take on it happened to differ greatly with what she had to present in what turned out to be a rather heated discussion. All roads led to Rome and the beginnings of Christianity and why people had to "give unto Caesar what is Caesar's and unto God, what is Gods". This quote is taken from the books of Mark, Luke and Matthew in the bible and directly quote Jesus' response to teachers of the law who wanted to trap him into saying something that would implicate him against the law. then Caesar was the law and all currencies had the face of Caesar on them. (In case you want a better understanding you can refer to Luke 20:20:26.).

Why Rome? well from whence I was a child and now a grown woman, my dream was always to make a pilgrim to Rome: I thought to myself, like the Muslim makes a pilgrim of faith once in a lifetime to Mecca, I, should like to make it to Rome - the Roman Catholic in me wanted to claim holiness and renew my faith . . . It was long before I could realize the dream of going to Rome, and it was not to fulfill my childhood dreams. By the time I actually made it there, the whole faithful and holiness thing was long gone and the open mind of 'questions' was much alive. By the time we got to Rome with Peter and Helen, I was too tired to show any excitement for the one place I had looked forward to for a lifetime. Rome is dirty, that was my first impression. Second was that the drivers drove like the drivers we had back home in Kampala, honking every second of the way and driving on shoulders to try and get to their destinations faster. Imagine the shock I had seeing all this. Peter kept driving as if he had lived in Rome his whole life, nothing of the honking and near bumper brash with other cars seemed to bother him. He had two places in mind to take us to, that was the Colosseum and then to this seafood restaurant that I vaguely remember now, except for how delicious the food tasted.

So I did not see the pope, but he was in the Vatican when Peter and I visited Vatican City. In the first century AD, the circus of Nero was hosted at the site of St. Peter's Basilica and a cemetery. According to ancient tradition, St. Peter was martyred in the Circus and buried nearby. His simple grave was remembered and visited by the faithful followers. In the year 324, Emperor Constantine began construction on a great basilica over the tomb. The shrine of St. Peter is still the central focus of the church today. You can see it inside the church, there is a red light burning night and day at his tomb.

Venice:

I had been in Italy a little over 10 days when we finally made our way to Venice from Florence. I had loved Florence very much that I was reluctant to go to Venice. But I was told I would not regret the decision to go; I never did. Some say Venice is overrated, that is it a tourist trap etc. I say, you want to visit Venice for the many reasons others go and for the very fact that it is a living testimony of the will of humans to survive against all odds. If you have never read or heard the history of Venice, you probably do not know that it was originally all swamp and uninhabitable. You do not know then that the Venetians arrived in this part of Italy to escape persecution and that the need to survive, remain free drove them to tame the swamp and make it the marvel that we now visit as a 'Tourist Destination'On arrival in Venice, we went straight to our hotel to freshen up and relax after a day spend on the road. My companion a German and European at heart knew the roads of Italy like the back of his hands and had had no problems getting us to Venice without event.

While many go on a gondola ride, the canal walk is perhaps the most inspiring. The many canals in Venice are what make the city so special and attractive to many. The most famous of the many districts that comprise Venice is the area comprising the 118 islands in the main districts that are called "Sestieri". They include the Cannaregio, Castello, Dorsoduro, San Polo, Santa Croce and San Marco. San Marco is famous for the monuments and landmark attractions including the Basilica of Saint Mark. The other smaller districts include Isola Della Giudecca and Lido di Venezia. Other important islands include Murano, Torcello, San Francesco del Deserto and Burano, but there are quite a few others that I have not included here. The group of 118 islands which make up Venice and its lagoon were officially added to the list in 1987, for their cultural significance.

As I mentioned I visited in summer, which was a mistake. It was incredibly hot and sticky, the canals had a really bad odor mostly and the crowds of visitors took away what would have been a great vacation in Spring or late fall.

PS: Do not leave for tomorrow, what you can do today. Tomorrow is no promise to anyone.

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