The Naples Experience

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So much has been said and written about the experiences of tourists in Naples. Today we kept all of that in mind as we prepared for our trip into this exciting city. We emptied our carry bags of all valuable documents, our wallets are left in a safe place, if something could not fit in our bag it stayed behind. We only have enough money for food and transport.

We join other passengers on this early morning two hour trip into the city. The bus winds its way around the narrow streets of Agerola picking up passengers heading down hill. After an hour of stop start driving and the expert driver swinging the bus around countless corners we arrive at the bottom of the hill. Many passengers get off, maybe to do their Friday shopping, perhaps they have appointments, maybe the drive was too much. Just as we are about to carry on to the next stop a frantic passenger gets back on shouting and with arms waving explains something to the driver. The driver disappears to the rear of the bus. The smell of burnt rubber is awful. Someone near us explains it is a flat tyre. Oh well, perhaps we’ll be getting to Naples later than we thought. Not sure what the driver did but we are soon on our way gathering speed as we join the autostrada. What a relief to arrive in Naples about twenty minutes early.

We start our Naples experience in the grand and modern Central Station. We feel safe with armed security everywhere and not a beggar in sight. Considerable construction work is being undertaken in the piazza outside. A third metro line is being tunnelled through the city. A quick visit to the i-site for a city map on which the friendly assistant circles the sights we want to visit, and we’re off.

Today we are accompanied, in spirit, by Alex Polizzi and her Secrets of Italy. We headed down a street full of stalls. What a buzz. Somewhere on our trip from the bus to the station “someone stole” a group member’s well travelled cap, faded but well loved. Standing in front of a stall bulging with Italian hats, “Made in China”, made of paper, we selected two very nice fashion statements. This will be a very nice take on the Bartholomew Cubbins story.

Our walk takes us up busy narrow streets in the Old Town. We venture into a street made famous by Alex’s programme. It is a street full of shops and workshops making and selling an incredible array of pottery figurines. We watch a man construct an intricate scene with little houses and people. In a church a young woman is making figures for a religious setting. All of this is going on in a busy crowded narrow street.

San Gregorio Armeno was on our “to visit list” with gardens and citrus groves in the Centre of this busy city. We arrive at the entrance to find it closed for the day. Perhaps a reason to visit on another occasion. Next on the list is a margherita pizza made famous in this city. We line up at a well patronised establishment and wait our turn to be seated. We order one to share, sorry - one each. Our eyes bulge when they arrive. Our waist lines are growing, perhaps a snack for dinner tonight. Along the street we could hear students practicing their singing or playing their instrument in the nearby music academy.

Winding our way through narrow streets we arrive at the San Severo Chapel. This building is not very big but the sculptures are incredible especially that of the Veiled Christ. In the crypt are two skeletons, male and pregnant female, with all their arteries and veins, and organs. Experts believe beeswax and wire was used to construct the internal organs around the skeletons. These date back to the 18th century and are an example of anatomical study at the time. No photos allowed so a visit to Google might assist.

Time on our feet, a hot day, and a two hour journey home left us with time for one more visit, Gesu Nuovo church. Time for a sit down and to reflect on our day so far.

It’s time to head back to the Central Station, this time by crowded, clean and fast metro. We have enough time for a drink before searching out our bus stop. The roads are hectic with people leaving the city. Eventually our bus arrives and the driver is too busy to take our money at this stage, “Pay later” is his response. He wants to get a move on. As we said before Italians do chaos well. This time it is the traffic. Two lanes merge into one then, as we get onto the autostrada single lanes need to merge with three, in the meantime cars are frantically trying to find a way through and around these lanes of cars, not to mention the motorcycles. Out of this chaos we emerge into some free flowing traffic. Over an hour later, some standing some sitting, the bus empties a little and seats are quickly snaffled by those with tired legs. The winding trip up the hill to our destination is relatively uneventful. The bus continues to empty as it twists and turns it’s way around the narrow streets. On arrival we try again to pay our money. The driver has a quick look in his bag, “Next time”. That is the way it is. Another friendship made.

Our day in Naples: an absolute delight. We loved every minute. Our fears of pick pockets and beggars came to nothing. Someone out there is wearing a drab Kiwi cap with Haka printed on it. We on the other hand are now proud owners of stylish Italian sun hats.

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Photos

Naples
The markets

Naples
Fresh fish, a stall in the market

Naples
A street typical in the old town

Naples
Pottery scenes and figurines

Naples
Lunch time pizzas

Naples
Gesu Nuovo

Naples
A well known puppet - Pulcinella