Ostuni and the "oldest mother in the world"

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We traveled eight hours by train from Padova to Ostuni on Saturday. The train ride was pleasant and not very crowded in first class, and you could get espresso in the next car from a surly baristo!

We are staying in an apartment on a very busy piazza, not far from the historic area of the town. It's well-located for catching buses and trains, if a bit noisy. The first two nights were really active, since it was a three day weekend (It was Liberation Day...we were disappointed that we weren't invited to some sort of festivity, being descendants of the liberators...). Ostuni is known for it's chicness and nightlife and people come for day-trips and the weekend. We've seen a few Americans, but most tourists are Italian. Ostuni has a small, hilly, and maze-like historic center, with many restaurants and shops. It's on a hill, is mostly white (thus its nickname "The White City")and looks like a Moroccan town from a distance...

We've spent our time here relaxing, trying to stay warm and dry in the storms and cold weather, and visiting nearby towns.

We first visited Lecce. "Because of the rich Baroque architectural monuments found in the city, Lecce is commonly nicknamed "The Florence of the South". The city also has a long traditional affinity with Greek culture going back to its foundation; the Messapii who founded the city are said to have been Cretans in Greek records. To this day, in the Grecìa Salentina, a group of towns not far from Lecce, the griko language is still spoken. In terms of industry the "Lecce stone" is the city's main export, because it is very soft and workable, thus suitable for sculptures. Lecce stone is a kind of limestone. Lecce is also an important agricultural centre, chiefly for its olive oil and wine production, as well as an industrial centre specializing in ceramic production." Wikipedia

Our second day trip was by bus to Martina Franca. "The town has a particularly beautiful old town surrounded by stone walls with prominent Baroque gates leading to piazzas and narrow, winding streets. Piazza Roma is the largest square in the old town, with a greenspace in the center of a largely triangular grass pattern, facing the 17th century Palazzo Ducale. he centre of Martina Franca is charming, and worth roaming around for an hour or two, with cameras at the ready. The oldest part of town is called the Lama, where you can still see the pointed-roof buildings which are a local tradition. Wandering the lanes and alleys you pass eighteenth-century palaces, some of which are shabby with age, as well as humbler dwellings. All are tall and squeezed together in this small area within the old town walls. Ornate balconies and archways decorate the more elegant buildings, along with fancy baroque windows, and those ubiquitous cherubs. The centre has a lived-in feel, with laundry and sometimes foodstuffs hung outside to dry. Although it is mostly pedestrianised, little three-wheeled ape trucks occasionally appear, plunging alarmingly down the narrow lanes; sheets of metal are screwed onto walls to protect buildings from the knocks of vehicles squeezing past."

The bus ride there was almost better than the town: beautiful green country side spotted with the traditional "trulli" buildings. We had an overly friendly bus driver on the way there, who wanted to tour us the next day (for a fee) and was very pushy in trying to find out where we staying...but also informative..

Today is our last day here, and we are spending it catching up on internet, since the service in our apartment is worse than pathetic....and packing. Tomorrow we rent a car and I drive for the next three days (unless we can add Bill, since there are age limits to car rental...), to the ferry to Sicily....where we spent the night in Messina, travel by train to Palermo...and settle in another apartment for a week...

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Photos

"The oldest mother in the world"
This pregnant woman was found near Ostuni in a prehistoric tomb dating back to 45,000 bcc

IMG_2299
Built by Fredrick the second for no known reason...we could see it from the train...

Lecce
"Torre del Parco ("Park Tower") is one of the medieval symbols of Lecce. It was erected in 1419 by the then-18 years old Giovanni Antonio Del Balzo Orsini, prince of Lecce. The tower, standing at more than 23 metres (75 ft), is surrounded by a ditch in which bears (the heraldic symbol of the Orsini del Balzo) were reared. The whole complex was the seat of Orsini's tribunal and of a mint, and after Giovanni Antonio's death, it became a residence for the Spanish viceroys." Wikipedia

Lecce
Roman Amphitheatre: built in the 2nd century and situated near Sant'Oronzo Square, was able to seat more than 25,000 people. It is now half-buried because other monuments were built above it over the centuries. The theatre is currently used for different religious and arts events.

Chiesa di Santa Croce
Construction of the Chiesa di Santa Croce) was begun in 1353, but work halted until 1549, and it was completed only by 1695. The church has a richly decorated façade with animals, grotesque figures and vegetables, and a large rose window. Next to the church is the Government Palace, a former convent. This was my favorite church!

Chiesa di Santa Croce
Naked mermaids on a church!

Comments

[george]

She-Wolf
That would be the she-wolf that fed Romulus and Remus. G

[Doug]

You probably travelled through Bari, where Mr. Pasquale Natuzzi (Antonisa) has his main factory and headquarters, and home. Trying to keep up with your whereabouts. Been passing on tidbits like the cat pee thing.

[D MJ Binkley]

Ostuni
Nice view