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Published: October 21st 2008
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Green, Gaelic & Guinness…Ireland
Our first day in Ireland felt like a truly international day. After flying from Liverpool, England to Dublin, Ireland, we had to take a detour to the Chinese embassy. En route, we passed Irish pubs, Polish markets and Ghanaian restaurants. Once there, we presented our visa applications to the Chinese clerk - all in order so that we’d be able to traverse Russia, Mongolia and China later in our travels! Trivia: What is the second most spoken language in Ireland? Answer: Chinese!
As expected, we found Ireland to be a very charming place. In fact, we’re not alone. It’s said that Ireland has more tourists per year than actual residents!
We started our Irish adventure in Dublin and did a big counterclockwise loop passing through Northern Ireland, along the northern coast and heading back into the Republic of Ireland, hugged the rugged west coast, skirting south and eventually making our way back up to Dublin.
Northern Ireland
In Northern Ireland, we discovered many highlights, whether exploring Giant’s Causeway, a natural wonder boasting spectacular seaside rock formations of magnificent basalt columns (over 40,000!), wandering around Derry, a 17th century walled city or visiting Belfast, the capital and hometown
of our good friends, Rosie and Pammy! Amongst the beauty and charm of Northern Ireland, taking a “black taxi tour” (sadly nicknamed the “bombs & bullets tour”) in West Belfast quickly brings you back to the grim realities of the bloody religious wars that had been waged for years between Catholics and Protestants. On the tour, it was standard to see back patios covered by cages to deflect the bombs being lobbed into their homes! Bullet-pocked walls are commonplace and serve as reminders of those lost. Today, many buildings are covered in murals - militaristic, historical and symbolic. Although recent history hangs heavy in the air, there is an air of determined optimism for a future of promise for Northern Ireland.
Republic of Ireland
No trip to Ireland is complete without a stop at the famous Guinness Brewery. In 1759, Arthur Guinness was so confident in his product that he signed the lease on the St. James’ Gate Brewery for 9,000 years!!! From the glass top deck, you get a spectacular 360º view of the city while sipping your creamy brew. One of my favorite stops in Dublin was Trinity College, founded in 1592. Our very witty student tour guide
entertained us with tales of its colorful history, famous alumni, unique architecture and present day college life. Some interesting Trinity College tidbits: There is a dorm in which you are only allowed to speak Gaelic. Anyone caught speaking anything but Gaelic is fined (or kicked out of the dorms for repeat offenders!). Or how about the former Provost Salmon who prophetically stated, "Over my dead body will women enter the College." Women students were admitted to Trinity shortly after his death in 1904! To our delight, Trinity now boasts over 50% women!
Another funny story focused on Trinity Debate Society’s (which, by the way, does no sort of debating!) most popular guest speakers: Bill Clinton and David Hasselhoff. Yes, Mr. Hasselhoff (of Baywatch and Knight Rider fame!) got as many spectators as former President Clinton! I just love that David Hasselhoff’s celebrity status reaches across the Atlantic!
Like Scotland, Ireland boasted many beautiful castles (e.g., stunning Kilkenny Castle dating back to the 1100s; Ross Castle that requires a relaxing walk through Killarney National Park to reach). We enjoyed many other historical stops along the way; Rock of Cashel (spectacular archeological site that served as the seat of kings and churchmen
Luck o' the Irish!
Kerry Bog Village Museum who ruled over the region); Book of Kells (an illuminated manuscript from 800 A.D.); Fahan stone beehive huts (early Christian huts thought to have been built to house visiting Pilgrims).
Since we’ve tasted on the Bourbon Trail in Kentucky of Kentucky whiskeys, and on the Scotch Trail of Scottish whiskeys, to complete our “Triple Crown” it seemed only fitting we’d sample the whiskeys of Ireland, most notably, Bushmill’s (Northern Ireland) and Jameson (Republic of Ireland) where Jason was selected as an “official taster.” As you can guess, they really had to twist his arm to convince him!
Connemara, the wild west coast of bogs, valleys, lakes and jutting peaks took our breath away. Stunning beauty abounds throughout the western side: The Ring of Kerry (a 110+ mile scenic road circling the Iveragh Peninsula), Cliffs of Moher (dramatic cliffs boasting views of the Aran Islands - and home to the Atlantic Puffin bird!) and the Dingle Peninsula, my mom’s and cousin’s favorite area on their recent trip to Ireland. Upon our arrival to Dingle, it was very apparent as to why it tops the rankings - it just exudes charm. Jason and I dubbed it our favorite area as well. Like
The Wishing Chair
Hexagonal stone formations at Giant's Causeway my mom, I enjoyed looking at all the homes, churches, hidden shops, gardens, countryside…people’s everyday lives.
I had fun realizing that all the little streets, shops, pubs, alleyways, etc. had already been walked, explored and enjoyed by my mom and Pat a few years earlier. Anyone who knows my mom knows she probably had walked the entire county (twice!) before the sun even rose each morning! Curving bays, golden beaches, grazing sheep, green hills dotted with stone walls. It’s no surprise that with all this beauty comes art - one of my favorite stops on the Dingle Peninsula being the Louis Mulcahy Pottery Studio. As we returned to our car, pottery in hand, we spotted a pod of dolphins playing along the coast. A perfect end to a perfect day or just plain Luck o’ the Irish?!
One last highlight of the trip was witnessing the fanatical Irish soccer fans. As we traveled through Kerry County (one of the areas competing for the championship), we observed that every inch of road, every pub wall, every shop door and every house yard was decorated with their team’s colors - no exceptions!
As we made our way back to Dublin, we stopped
Peaceful
Galway, Ireland off for a tour of the Waterford Crystal factory where all the items are still made by hand. It really opens your eyes to the incredible craftsmanship that goes into each and every piece that goes out their door. We now have an even greater appreciation for Jackie’s Waterford wine glasses!
Our last night in Ireland, we enjoyed two of our favorite pastimes, books and pubs, with the Literary Pub Tour. I’m happy to report I didn’t leave Ireland before collecting my winnings as “Literary Trivia Quiz Champion!” (Thanks, mom, for encouraging my love of reading!)
Slaynt! (toast to your “health” in Gaelic)
What we’ll miss:
The cheerful Irish people who never stop making you feel welcome
What we won’t miss:
Like the Scots, the Irish kept feeding us those crazy blood sausages!!
Next stop:
Amsterdam, Holland to meet up with our good friends, Jon & Christel
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