Budapest’s social scene goes non-stop, around the clock. Entertainment options range from cafés, theater, jazz clubs, thumping nightclubs, and late night pubs. Falling short of my goal to find a particular underground night spot along the Danube in Pest, and then perturbed the wine bar in Buda I sought out was closed for vacation (things they can never inform you of in a guidebook!), I trudged back to my apartment, indignant and resigned to retire early for the evening. Other than the dim incandescent lights that are suspended over the dark back streets of Pest, late night establishments leave one lit sign outside their door to indicate they’re open. Nearing Garay Tér, a few of these signs called out my name, and I decided to explore these underground vaults of nocturnal life. The most interesting point
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