European River Cruise - Budapest, Monday 2010 August 30

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Not much accomplished today, but a bit of rest seemed to be required. We had to be clear of cabins by 9:00 (bags by 8:00). So we sat in the lounge for close to an hour, participating in the long good bye as taxis arrived for some and buses for others. There had to be two buses for all those going to the Marriott to wait for other connections. I went in the first bus, and the rest of our little group waited for the second, to keep in sync with our luggage.

In a nice conference room overlooking the river at the Marriott, I waited another hour for the second bus to come. We did have tea and coffee and a selection of chocolate and cream pastries. When the others arrived they were certainly ready for a tea and nibble. Then we just seemed to be sitting around, so I asked Yvonne about getting our cases. She seemed surprised we were ready so soon(!) but did help us.

Easily we pulled our cases the three blocks to the Kempinski. Ian checked in for all of us because he had paid for the online reservation. Our rooms wouldn’t be ready until 2:00, as we expected. So we walked along the main pedestrian precinct searching for the 19^th century Central Market which still functions. Our map was misleading regarding the distance, so I asked in a tourist candy store. She steered us in the wrong direction, which we realized fairly soon as we were about to reach the Danube River. Then we asked at a tourist Information booth – uninterested, she told us it was further down the pedestrian mall – 10 minutes. About ten minutes later we couldn’t see the market (having focused our sights on a building that was actually a church). Deirdre and I were sucked into a Hungarian embroidery store. The shop-keeper spent a considerable time explaining the techniques and various styles and articles. Eventually I bought a small doily because I loved it not because I have a place for it. Deirdre bought a runner for a friend’s wedding. When we finally emerged, Ian and Barbara were waiting wearily on a bench. We agreed to walk ten more minutes (across some construction) to the large, ornate building in the distance.

Finally! The interior exploded open from the entryway. The design reminded me of the market in Florence – iron work and cast iron curlicues over two floors – almost square. One end was not visible from the other. We walked down one side, wide-eyed at the innumerable kiosks for sausages of every shape, paprika in many varieties and packages, cheese, meats, vegetables and fruits, bread and cakes, etc. We went upstairs for the return journey. Here were the shops for clothing, tablecloths and runners, shoes, costume jewelry, etc. We checked out the cafeteria-style restaurant but decided to walk back down the street - after I bought paprika in a souvenir tin.

Luckily we chose a wonderful restaurant. The weather was just warm enough to eat on their veranda, where we could watch people pass by on the mall (including a couple of Australians from our ship). The waitress was young and charming; she was astounded that people would come all the way from Canada to enjoy Budapest. Her voice unconsciously conveyed her longing to leave. Deirdre and Barbara had tomato and cucumber salad, respectively, plus cheese “ravioli”, actually three large triangles of cheese-stuffed pasta. They drank delicious lemonade made from sparkling water and garnished with citrus slices. Ian and I enjoyed the local beer and huge portions of chicken paprikash with spatzle. I hadn’t realized this was creamy dish, so I mainly just ate the chicken – delicious fowl that had walked in a yard somewhere. Ian and Deirdre helped me finish. Finding the washrooms in the cellar of the restaurant was extraordinary. The route was through another floor of serving area where the aroma was of charcuterie and on the walls were hundreds of years of mementos. Heavy tables and benches filled the large room.

Two rooms were ready at the hotel. I took one of them and had an urgent nap. Unfortunately, Ian and Deirdre had to wait another hour. We spent the afternoon in our rooms – the sky was drizzling. In the late afternoon I checked out the hotel spa and heard live music in the lobby. When I phoned I&D, they opted to have tea in the lobby rather than try the spa. Ian ordered hot chocolate and got a marvelous pot of real chocolate (and rich), a pot of milk, a dish of sweet whipped cream and two chocolate fancy cookies. Later we discovered that the tea Deirdre and I each ordered cost the same (about $10) – thank goodness we at least got the cookies, too. After a while Barbara came down and ordered hot chocolate, too.

Since no one had appetite yet, I went to the hotel spa for a while before supper. As suggested by the spa receptionist, I changed in my room and wore the sumptuous terry robe. I should have worn the provided slippers, but used my own sandals. The pool was small – seemingly for soaking. But it was very cold. I could barely bear to lower myself into it, even urged on (in English) by a German (I think) man already in it. After a few “lengths”, I did warm up and enjoyed the stretch. Then when I went to the tiny sauna, it was quite cold also. Two other women in there didn’t seem to mind, so I just closed my eyes and relaxed for a while.

Our dinner place was chosen by being close and open (on a cold damp evening) – and of an interesting, local style. Their menu at this time of night (about 8:00) was limited to pizza and soup. I&D had the paper-thin crust pizzas, at 12” a big surprise given the price. (Barbara wasn’t hungry and didn’t come.) I had Hungarian chicken soup, which unexpectedly hit the spot, with a glass of very dark, dry red wine.

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Photos

Budapest market
Decorative exterior and pulsating interior

Market stall
Peter Piper picked a peck of pickled peppers.

Market butcher
Peter also liked sausages!

Street art
Beautiful, evocative statue

Hotel room
It really paid to book ahead!

View from my room
Even in the rain, the roof-top garden was dazzling.