Kriti - Santorini


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Europe » Greece » South Aegean » Santorini
July 26th 2013
Published: July 25th 2013
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Crete Crete Crete

Black water (we think) pipes all above ground
A few final observations about the area of Crete we were in. There are many abandoned shells of homes as well as many unfinished. You can see the rebar up through the existing floor but nothing more. When we asked Savario about this he said 2 things happen, they build like this so future generations of the family can add on another level or they ran out of money!! There are also miles and miles of exposed black piping which we assumed was water. Many cisterns along the roads with these black pipes traveling to them.

Up at 7:30 today to meet at the car rental office for 8:30. They agreed when we rented the car that they would drive us to the port this morning as part of our rental package. ADRENALIN RUSH!!! Our driver was a young Greek man that should still have been riding a tricycle with training wheels. OYOYOOYOYOY….we truly experienced the aggressive Greek driver. We were in a little Peugeot and he fancied himself a rally racer only he must have failed every car/race driving test he took. These people are nuts, they straddle the center line and expect oncoming traffic to move over for them. Both
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Rebar on top level left for future expansion!!
front windows completely down, driving a minimum of 100kph between the screeching brakes and jerky swerving on the many twists and turns along the highway. This fellow passed when he should have stayed and stayed when he should have passed. Finally exited the highway only for him to take on a Jeep at the traffic light. I saw him look right at the guy in the Jeep then turn left and stick his head out the window to watch the traffic light wanting to be first off the mark. EPIC FAIL!! HUMILIATION! He then took it out on the cars in front of us, honked his horn, threw his hands in the air and muttered under his breath. Thank goodness we didn't have breakfast before we left the apartment or it definitely would have been in danger of coming up. We arrived at the port and were very happy to exit the car, collect our bags and get on our ferry. It is supposed to be high speed but expect that to mean something completely different. After all, the ocean is huge!!!

Uneventful ferry ride but it sure went fast. The Santorini/Thira port is at the bottom of a cliff!! Masses of people walking off ferries in search of their ride, the tour guide or the local bus. We searched for our Pension George sign and sure enough it was there. Once again big smiles and George turn the sign over and pointed at our last name to make sure we were who he was to be picking up. Off we hustled to his big van, loaded the bags and we hopped in the front seats with him. Long twisting winding road to the top. Wow, very different vibe here from Crete. Clean, bright relatively new looking. As we were coming into the village George asked if we would like to stop at the mini mart for some foods. He basically told us what we should get, bless his heart. No need for tomatoes or peppers as those he had at the apartment. We stocked up a bit, just so we could eat some lunch and then carried on our way. More turns and we came upon the most gorgeous complex. Completely enclosed, surrounded by lush trees, plants and vines. In the center is a swimming pool and back beyond is the vegetable garden along with fig trees and cucumber cacti. George asked if we had ever eaten fresh figs and we hadn't. So up the wall he went and pull down a couple of figs. Instructed us on how to peel them…..Oh my, I can see why these go so well with a tart cheese. Delish! He then showed us how to choose the correct prickly pear, then cut it and peel it. Different texture but good. He said that we would have to try another one before we eat anything else as the fig we ate would have affected how the pear tasted in our mouth. We shall see. Our room wasn't quite ready so we relaxed in the shade around the pool. George's daughter looks after the units so once she was done she gave us the run down on the island, marked up a map and overloaded us with suggestions. Moped was ordered and should be here about 4. Trev decided a nap was in order and I changed into my swimsuit and went to lay in the sun. Oh it was lovely and the pool is cool enough to be refreshing but not cold.

Off to get the moped settled…..ended up with a Smart Car Convertible!!! They
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Everyone has assigned seats and you are not allowed outside when ferry is in motion
didn't have a bigger bike and I don't have my driver's license with me so it meant 1 scooter only. They gave us an okay deal on this smart car. I feel bad as Trev was really looking forward to scootering around the island. Maybe Sifnos will be the place. Drove around to get our bearings and then stopped in Thira, Fira, Thera….take your pick. They are all the same place but they can't seem to decide how to spell it 😊 Great cobbled streets. The stone mosaic work is amazing. Up and down stairs, checking out the nooks and crannies and then ended up having dinner overlooking the ocean close to sunset. A bit unsettling at the restaurant as we listen to the owner screaming at the top of his lungs several times. No clue what the problem was but the waiters were all uneasy. He must have called a team meeting as they all disappeared into the kitchen to listen to one of his tirades. Did a bit of grocery shopping on the way home and now it is soon bed time. Hard pace!!

Early morning….9:30!! A little breakfast and quiet time then out to lounge by the pool.
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out back stairwell upon arrival
We are on the flight path of the airport so I am reminded of home in Richmond! They are very low and very loud. Most in the early morning hours or dinner time. Thank goodness none in the middle of the night. The pool is so refreshing with many dips to cool down for the next few hours. Lunch time. Went and picked some vine ripened cherry tomatoes that are so sweet and delicious Enjoyed sandwiches and tortilla chips out on our patio in the shade. Time for a nap…..such a treat. Back in the sunshine and then off to find dinner. Oh wait, Skype is calling and it is AMBER!! Finally we get to talk….40 minutes I think 😊 Was great to hear her voice. We decided to go up to the Santo Winery for sunset. What a spectacular view made even better by the duo that was playing beautiful music. Saxaphone lead with a keyboardist/electronics guy accompanying. Music just speaks to Trev and I in a profound way. Loved it. Found our way back into town for dinner and picked a place that was packed with people. Decided they may know something we don't….they were right. Dinner was
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Docking in Santorini
great and the couple at the table next to us were great to chat with. Hometown of Liverpool, 4 kids, 4 grandchildren, he's a Dolphin's fan, and they recommended we go to South Africa! That place is definitely on our Travel Bucket List. Best cappuccino since we left home. Zipped back home in time to catch a Skype call from TARA!! Yehaw, had some wedding discussion. Hard to believe her and Joe get married in less than 2 months. The planning will get into high gear once we are home. So looking forward to that special day. Now just need to hear from Morgan. She is at Portage le Prairie convention until tonight so may not get together with her for a day or 2.

Bad night with our neighbors upstairs. In about 1:30am, loud and noisy for at least an hour and a screaming/howling cat that went on and on and on. Needless to say we are both a bit bleary eyed this morning. Decided to go and explore one of the beaches. Kamari was the choice. Very upscale feel with each street leading to the beach. Beach is lined with Grass Umbrellas and lounge chairs. If you want to
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Foot passengers waiting to disembark
use those you pay 4 Euros a day. Much quieter feel than Thira. Beach has black sand (really tiny pebbles, quite coarse). Time for so sun by our pool now.

Off on another exploration, this time to Oia. Apparently this is THE place to watch the sunset. People in this part of the world are very big on the sunset. This island is 18km long so it never takes long to get anywhere. In fact when you are following a map you always arrive at your next check point almost before you left the last one! Both Thira and Oia have public parking areas. The one we found charged 3 Euros (about $4US)until midnight. Pretty decent price compared with downtown parking in Seattle or Vancouver. Very different feel here. Many high end hotels/pensions/suites. Most of the town is built in the traditional Greek style with blue and white colors. There isn't really any beach at either Thira or Oia so lots of pools or folks drive scooters or quads to the beach. So hard to imagine how they actually built this whole area, right on the cliff. Not to mention that they are living right above a volcano that last erupted
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luggage hold
in 1950 creating a lava island inside the crater. It is the largest crater in the world. People lining the far end of the city, on the steps, rooftops, walls, pretty much anywhere they could find a spot. It was a good 1.5 hours before sunset and they were all hurrying to find a spot. Some amazing artists in this town with very unique mediums and visions. We enjoyed the view for a bit and then decided we were too hungry to wait for sunset and figured we would find a restaurant before the rush! We had spotted a dessert place and checked to see if they actually served food too. They did, so upstairs we went and got a front row ocean view seat. Trev went for the baked omelet, eggs, zucchini, peppers all in a phyllo bowl along with bruschetta and I went for a chicken salad. We HAD to save room for dessert and it was AMAZING. Mine was a phyllo pastry filled with a custard and Trev's was stringed phyllo with nuts and sweet cream cheese. All topped off with cappuccinos.....So tasty, so full of calories, so don't care 😊 Oh and our little bit of
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Masses of people!!!
drama for the night.....2 older "well seasoned ladies" came and stood between our table and the next pretending to have a look over the edge at the sea. HA....not subtle at all. They wanted the table next to us as they could see the 4 diners were getting ready to leave. Unbeknownst to them, 2 young ladies were waiting in the wings for at least 10 minutes for that table. You can image what happened as the young ones were NOT about to let the old biddies horn in on their table!!! Young one slides in as she is more agile and quick witted, old ones start yammering loudly and then huffily set themselves down at the same table. More words exchanged...it was kind of fun guessing what they might be saying 😊 Waiter says something and the decibel level decreased momentarily. I motioned him over and told him that the young girls were here MUCH before the old ones and that they should get the table. I know, can't keep my mouth closed sometimes...he told the old ones that the table was the younger girls. Well, the old biddies stomped out with their righteous indignation intact. Unbelievable...cheeky old gals they were.

Drove to Perissa for dinner. Yet another "feel" to this town. Bit campy, hippyish and hodge podge. Vivi here at Pension George suggested a restaurant called Poseidon and we were not disappointed. Gorgeous moon rise as we were walking back to the car. This town has a long street with shops and restaurants right up against the beach. We decided we had to head back to Oia for a cappuccino and dessert....such travelers we are, all of about 25km up winding dark hillside roads. Trev has become a bit of a mad man in our Smart car. Loves the way it handles the tight corners and curves and delights in giving me fits. In fact I told him to turn on the high beams so he could see, and he said no Rhonda, so you can see!! TRUE DAT.....I hate not being able to see where I'm going 😊 No drama tonight so all is good. Morgan is still holding out on the Skype session so here's hoping it is in the next day or 2.

Happy Birthday to me!! Very lazy day in the sun, great afternoon nap and then a revolving dinner in Thira. Appetizers, main course and
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Pension George sign is here somewhere
dessert at 3 different restaurants with a little shopping thrown in. Highlight #1 of the night was Skype time with my team at Totally Chocolate. It was so good to see their smiling faces and hear their voices. Even the big boss Ken!!! I have definitely missed the people but I am so thankful I have such a great team because I have never been concerned about the job getting done. They are up a combined 25%....I guess they like it when I'm gone 😊 Highlight #2 was a Skype session with mom & dad!

Lazy day at the pool with an afternoon Skype session with Morgan. We decided to go to IA for our last evening here on Santorini. Gorgeous night again. Started off with fish pedicures and then a sumptuous dinner at the Red Bicycle. The gal at the KissingFish suggested this restaurant and it was a hit. Bit on the higher price side of the street but what the heck...its only money....right? Well a bit of drama once again. Single gal at the table next to us ordered the Santorinian Salad, took a few bites, asked for her bill and told the waiter she didn't like it. She had this hoity toity dismissive tone and body language that set my teeth on edge. They brought the bill, she paid with cash and when the tray with her change was brought she had a fit. It was all coins, (not sure if the server was sending a message or not) she called out Lady, hey lady and pointed at the coins. The server apologized and said she didn't have any small bills. The gal grab up the coins and flounced out of the restaurant. Most ungracious guest. Strolled along the beautifully lit "street" and enjoyed going in to several art shops. There are some really unique and talented Greek artists. Lots of 3D style using multiple mediums. Would love to have taken some pictures but didn't want to be run out of the shops...afterall they did have the "no pictures" notices hanging prominently!! Stopped for cappuccino at our favorite dessert restaurant, Melenio Patissierie, and 1 treat to share. Once again everything was great. We went downstairs and each ordered a pastry to go. It is a good thing we are leaving tomorrow or we would both gain weight big time!!

Another reason it's a good thing we are leaving is
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in the distance you can see our green ferry. We are on the winding road up from the sea
that Trevor has become too familiar with the roads and our little Smart car. WE DID A FOUR WHEEL DRIFT AROUND A SHARP CORNER ON THE WINDING HILLTOP ROAD WITH A STRAIGHT DROPOFF ON THE THE LEFT!!! AND FURTHER MORE THE LIGHTS WERE ON LOW BEAM...I have to say it all happened so fast I wasn't able to have a complete fit and a few miles down the road after I collected myself I asked Trev "any adrenalin rush for you". His understated response was, "a little bit"!!! OYOYOYOYOY I DO want to see Sifnos, Athens and get home to family.....

Loved our time here and we look forward to the old world charm of Sifnos for the next week.


Additional photos below
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Old port in the distance where the cruise ships "dock". They actually anchor and there are shuttle boats for the passengers.
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Arriving at the apartment
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This is George. His wife Helen is English. She came years ago to Santorini and never left! They have 2 daughters. Vivi is the one that looks after the apartments. George is giving us a lesson in peeling a fresh fig.
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The vegetable garden
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pathway down the garden area


26th July 2013

Pics!
Ok, now they are showing up and amazing they are! Wow, this place is gorgeous with the water, the gardens, the restaurants right at the cliffs and.. I see your garden inspiration here:)
26th July 2013

Pretty gorgeous country for sure. Many, many items I would have loved to take home with me. Behaving myself though.

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