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Published: December 29th 2023
By far the largest and historically the most important of the Dodecanese islands, Rhodes abounds in beaches, wooded valleys, and ancient history. Whether you’re here on a culture-vulture journey through past civilizations, or simply for some laidback beach time, buzzing nightlife, or diving in crystal-clear waters, it’s all here. The atmospheric Old Town of Rhodes is a maze of cobbled streets that will spirit you back to the days of the Byzantine Empire and beyond. Further south, in the picture-perfect town of Lindos, capped by an ancient Acropolis, sugar-cube houses spill down to a turquoise bay. While both Lindos and Rhodes Old Town get very crowded in summer, Rhodes is large enough to allow plenty of room to breathe that pure Aegean air.
A Little Bit of History: the island was inhabited in the Neolithic period, although little remains of this culture today. According to Pindar’s Ode, the island was said to be born of the union of Helios the sun god and the nymph Rhodos. In the 16th century BCE, the Minoans came to Rhodes, closely followed by Mycenaean Greeks invading during the 15th century BCE. After the Bronze Age collapse, the first renewed outside contacts were with Cyprus. According to Greek legend, Rhodes claimed to have participated in the Trojan War. In 478 BCE, the Persians invaded and overran the island, but they were in turn defeated by forces from Athens. Being the eastern gate to the Aegean Sea, Rhodes was an important stopping point for Phoenician merchants. When the Peloponnesian War broke out in 431 BCE, Rhodes remained largely neutral and by the time the war ended in 404 BCE, Rhodes had already withdrawn entirely from the conflict and decided to go their own way. Rhodes became a part of the growing empire of Alexander the Great in 333 BCE, after he defeated the Persians who had again overrun the island in 340 BCE.
Rhodes Town is really two distinct and quite different towns. The Old Town lies within but utterly apart from the New Town, sealed like a medieval time capsule behind a double ring of high walls and a deep moat. Few cities can boast so many layers of architectural history, with ruins and relics of the Classical, Ottoman and Italian eras entangled in a mind-boggling maze of twisting lanes.
With a population of approximately 90,000 in its metropolitan area, Rhodes has been
famous since antiquity as the site of Colossus of Rhodes, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. The citadel of Rhodes, built by the Hospitalliers, is one of the best-preserved medieval towns in Europe, which in 1988 was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Continuously inhabited since medieval times, it was a sovereign state under the rule of the Knights of the Order of St John in the Middle Ages until it fell to the Ottomans in 1522. Many knights accepted the offer of safe passage and fled but other residents remained, resulting in a uniquely multicultural city. The streets are so well-preserved that you half expect a knight on horseback to ride past at any time – unfortunately, that didn’t occur while I was on the island this year! And that’s before you turn into the Ottoman or Jewish districts, which have a very different feel to them. And yet Rhodes town also retains a distinctive Greek island vibe. There are many shops and restaurants within the walls, particularly around central Hippokratous Square, but there are also quaint and quiet alleyways, adding to the charm of a town that is (almost) car-free.
To fully appreciate
the history and architecture of Rhodes Old Town, it’s best to join an organized tour. But you can always get yourself a good map and explore by yourself. One way or another, prepare for an experience that is, without doubt, one of the best things to do in Rhodes. Just inside
Marina Gate is the old town’s main square, with shops, cafes and tavernas around a central fountain.
Sokratous Street (one of the main shopping streets) leads westward from here.
Street of the Knights - cobblestoned, streetlamp-lit and completely knightly. This must-see street has been so beautifully preserved that you can imagine knights inhabiting the inns along the way, conversing, planning or in prayer.
Palace of the Grand Master - also known as the Kastello, the headquarters of the Order of the Knights of St John is the stand-out building of the old town. The architecture alone is worth the visit and the spacious halls are filled with medieval decor, including Roman and Early Christian floor mosaics. On the ground floor is a permanent exhibition of artifacts dating from the early Christian era to the period of Ottoman rule.
Our Lady of the Castle - this Byzantine-style church is believed
to have been built in the 11
th century. It has had multiple uses, having been converted into a three-aisled Gothic house of worship by the knights and into a mosque by the Ottomans.
The Archaeological Museum - contains various archaeological artifacts but is noteworthy for also housing the Hospital of the Knights.
Clock Tower - before heading on to explore other districts, it is worth heading up the Clock Tower for the panoramic view.
Suleymaniye Mosque - just below the Street of the Knights, the pink-colored Mosque was built after the Ottoman’s conquest. Its minaret can be seen from a distance, making it a good reference point. Nearby, in Arionos Square, is the
Mustafa Pasha Mosque and next door to that are the 16
th century Turkish Baths. With alternating days for men and women, the baths offer an authentically Turkish Hammam.
Synagogue - in the 1930s, there were six synagogues in Rhodes town and a Jewish population of around 6,500. So, the 16
th century built Kahal Shalom Synagogue and the Jewish quarter are important sites to explore to absorb the full cultural identity of the island. The quieter roads here will give a feeling for daily life in the Old
Town.
With such an extensive list of Old Town
must sees’ where do you start? There are seven gates in the walls of the old town – you can begin your tour from wherever you wish. For the most part, walking is easy within the Old Town, but there are streets with staircases and cobblestones (as befits a medieval city). Beyond the above highlights, part of the charm is simply wandering around the backstreets. Rhodes Town is about a 37-minute drive from the airport. There is also a regular bus service, with stops located between the new and old terminals of the airport. Tickets can be purchased directly from the bus driver.
Without a doubt, my most favorite location on Rhodes is Mandraki and its fabulous (and famous) harbor. It is a modern town, with hotels and resorts, cafes, restaurants, clubs and impressive sights and attractions, as well as traditional villas called marasiotika (from Marasia). Guarding Mandraki’s marina, from the tops of two tall limestone columns, are the island’s emblems: a deer and doe. For fans of the movie “Guns of Navarone” starring Gregory Peck and Anthony Quinn, this will be instantly recognizable. At the edge of the
dock stands the small fort of Agios Nikolaos, built in the 1460s. Along the coastal road, public buildings erected by the Italians are sure to impress you: the New Market, National Bank of Greece, Government House, National Theatre, Archbishop’s Residence, City Hall and famous Grande Albergo delle Rose, one of the most luxurious hotels in Europe in the 1930s that today houses the Rhodes Casino in one of its wings. In front of the aquarium, you’ll find one of the island’s most cosmopolitan beaches.
Although no traces of the statue remain, it is said that the Colossus of Rhodes (one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World) once stood in place of the statues of deer now found at the harbor. According to the stories, ships sailed beneath the giant legs and every night the passage was closed with an enormous chain.
Time to explore other interesting locations with
Lindos heading up the list of “must visit” locations.
A Little Bit of History: Located about 28 miles south of the city of Rhodes, this traditional Greek settlement was founded in the early 10th century BCE as a small fishing village and soon developed into an important trading and naval center due to its proximity to the only natural harbor on the island. The name Lindos is thought to originate from the Greek word “linthos” which means “marshland” The Lindos Acropolis began in the Neolithic period, around 4000 years
ago. An archeological site located on the east coast of the island, Lindos sits in a large bay and faces the fishing village and small resort village of Charaki. About an hour’s drive from Rhodes, it is accessible by car, taxi, or public transport. The local island bus at the airport takes around 2.5 hours to transit to Lindos, and although the buses are ok and dependable, the cost of about $12 to $15 per person is somewhat expensive. For this price, it makes far more sense to book a shared shuttle transfer – it is much quicker! The bus only runs at specific times.
The number one thing to do is Lindos is climb to the top of the almighty Acropolis and explore this ancient monument on the hill that overlooks the town. While you can hire a donkey ride to the top, please don’t contribute to the abuse of these gentle animals – walk
up instead. You’ll get some excellent views of Lindos from the staircase. Once you arrive at the top of the hill, pay the entrance fee of 12 euros per person (totally worth it) and walk into the remains of an ancient Greek citadel. Amongst the many stone pillars, steps, and ruins, you have some stunning views of Lindos and the surrounding bay of St Paul’s Bay. Spend a couple of hours exploring and taking your best picture.
A close second-best to the Acropolis is simply wandering the enchanting town of Lindos to your heart’s content. You can easily get lost within the narrow streets, browsing shops, ordering ice cream in a mini-corner café, and finding excellent photo opportunities. I recommend starting in the main town square and taking a leisurely walk to St Pauls Bay.
Visitors to Lindos sometimes miss the beach as it’s a short walk down the hill from Lindos town. Whether you’re visiting or staying here, a trip to the beach is highly recommended. It’s clean, sandy and has plenty of sun loungers and beach cafes to enjoy after a busy morning of sightseeing. Walk to the far end of the beach in the north
for less crowds. As the sun sets behind the towering Acropolis of Lindos, the town becomes a different place. The small white buildings are lit up and the streets empty as everyone ascends to the rooftop bars and restaurants. Enjoying a sunset drink on a Lindos rooftop promises magnificent views and a relaxing start to your evening. Be sure to arrive in time for happy hour.
St Paul’s Bay is just around the corner from Lindos and you can reach it on foot within 15 minutes, with a scenic walk along the narrow streets on the way. On arrival you’ll find a cozy but narrow beach, marina and the quaint St Paul’s Chapel. As the sun shines, the ocean appears turquoise and it’s a lovely place to relax. Find a space on the sometimes-crowded beach or on the rocks for more space and then go for a leisurely swim.
As with any island escape, sometimes the best way to see it is from the water. A boat trip will take you around the island to see the key ports such as Rhodes Town, or to secluded spots where you can snorkel in clear waters and check out the
local marine life. Tour boats range from sailing boats and small tourist ferries to scuba diving tours and glass bottom boats. The many beaches along the Lindos coastline have water sports providers at every turn. Tired of lying on the beach and baking under the sun? Head to the sea for jet skiing, paragliding, a banana boat, and other fun water sports activities. It’s an exhilarating thing to do solo or with your partner. Be sure to check the reviews for the water sports company you choose before signing up.
Wandering through the old town streets of Lindos you’ll find small, white-washed shops selling gifts, traditional Greek costumes, clothing, jewelry, ornaments and other things you’d expect to find in a bazaar style market. The narrow streets and pretty buildings make it a great place to shop, and the prices are very reasonable. Get lost browsing the shops, searching for a special gift for someone back at home.
Not many places in Rhodes can compare with the spectacular dinner backdrops on offer in Lindos. Many restaurants have rooftop areas where you can dine under the moonlight and dimly lit Acropolis that looms above the town. It can be both
a romantic experience for couples but also appeals to families, groups of friends and anyone that likes good Greek food in a picturesque setting.
Pefkos – Just down the road from Lindos, about a 10-minute drive, Pefkos is a holiday resort hotspot with some delightful restaurants and an active nightlife. It also has a secluded beach to enjoy. Visit for an afternoon or evening out and you’ll only be a short cab ride from Lindos. Pefkos is one of the main Lindos resort areas with plenty of affordable and luxury hotels.
Anthony Quinn Bay – For a quiet morning or afternoon of relaxation alongside turquoise waters and a beautiful beach, Anthony Quinn Bay is idyllic. Situated next door to Faliraki, you can visit both and make a day of it. The bay is considered one of the prettiest on the island.
Tsambika Monastery – Slightly inland from the coast, Tsambika Monastery is perched on top of a large hill surrounded by a national park of wilderness. For adventurers out there that want a leisurely hike to capture some of the best views on the island, this is the perfect attraction. Once at the top of the hill
you’ll find a beautiful little monastery and the best views on the island. Visit at sunset or sunrise for particularly spectacular scenery.
Did You Know? • · In 1926, Rhodes saw Greece’s strongest-ever earthquake. It measured a magnitude of 8.0, destroyed thousands of buildings and killed hundreds.
• · On a clear day, you can see Turkey from Rhodes. Marmaris is only an hour away by catamaran and two hours on a ferry. Turkey occupied the island for almost four centuries, up until 1912.
• · The island has a total of 43 towns and villages.
• · Petaloudes, also known as the valley of butterflies, is home to over a million species of butterflies. The large numbers of the butterflies never go down because it is illegal to capture or kill them.
Rhodes is the sunniest place in Europe, with over 300 days of sunshine per year.The island is home to the oldest inhabited medieval town in Europe.Locals believe the legendary
Hercules was the founder of the first settlement on Rhodes.Three-quarters of the budget of Rhodes comes from tourism.The Order of the Knights of Malta was once called Rhodes. After Rhodes was conquered by the Ottoman Sultan, the knights had to look for a new home, which became Malta.In the city of Kamiros, located on Rhodes, a water supply system was already operating 2500 years ago, supplying water to houses.
How can I sum up this incredible island in a sound bite? ………………
Rhodes – at the same time cosmopolitan and traditional, timeless and modern, simple and spectacular – an island in Greece that has so many faces and you’ll discover them all with enough time spent here. The medieval Old Town, port of Mandraki, Acropolis of Lindos, ancient cities of Kamiros and Lalysos, Valley of the Butterflies… Rhodes has so many highlights, that one visit is never enough. The landscape of this Dodecanese Island has so much eye-catching beauty that it’s no wonder Rhodes is one of the most popular vacation destinations in Greece. This is where vast sandy beaches, clear waters, castles, and ancient civilizations effortlessly mix with gourmet restaurants and traditional tavernas serving local delicacies. Rhodes is a beautiful mosaic of experiences: the island of knights and the mythical Colossus of Rhodes, where Byzantines, Greeks, Venetians, and Turks all left something to remember them by. Alongside luxury resorts are villages where women still bake bread in an outdoor wood-fired oven.
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D MJ Binkley
Dave and Merry Jo Binkley
A beautiful Greek Island
We made it to Crete but not Rhodes. I hope we get there some day. I really enjoyed reading your blog.