A Divided Country, Cyprus - November, 2023

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Planning a Cyprus itinerary can be a daunting task, especially since so many visitors to this Mediterranean island nation tend to be on a package tour. Because of this, it might seem like there isn’t much to see and it might be boring to visit as an independent traveler. This couldn’t be further from the truth however, as Cyprus has so much to offer visitors and it is very much worth exploring. From historic and divided cities to ancient archaeological sites to beautiful beaches and charming mountain villages, Cyprus may just have it all. Combine all of this with some of the best year-round weather in Europe and incredibly hospitable people and Cyprus may just be the ideal place to visit if you’re after a Mediterranean adventure. Are you wondering where to go? Well, let me give you my perspective of a place I have visited frequently in the past, and hopefully it will ensure that you plan the perfect trip and get the most out of this fascinating island nation.

A Little Bit of History: In the capital (Nicosia) the “Green Line” separates the majority Greek-Cypriot Republic of Cyprus from North Nicosia, capital of the Turkish Republic of North Cyprus, which is only recognized by the Turkish government. Fortunately, this means Nicosia, unlike many other fortified cities, isn’t defined by its surrounding walls. The Green Line – a demilitarized buffer zone patrolled by UN peacekeepers marked out in 1964 – scythes though the middle of the city, slicing it completely in two. This is Europe’s last divided capital, but its entwined history straddles both sides. These days most international visitors (including locals) can easily hope between both sides, thanks to the loosening of cross-border restrictions in the early 2000s. When exploring the Old Town’s atmospheric tangle of alleyways or tracing the line of its geometrically perfect snowflake-shaped ramparts, you’ll run into one major problem: narrow lanes end abruptly at cement bunkers and oil-barrel barricades, with a no-man’s land of abandoned buildings standing beyond the barbed-wire fencing. Today, the Republic of Cyprus is part of the EU and this has brought considerable investment to the southern half of the city. The Centre of Visual Arts and Research Museum in this long-neglected area is spearheading a revival of the long-neglected former thriving hub of Old Town. For anyone interested in Cypriot life under British rule and in the early years of independence, the galleries here are chock full of documents, artworks by international artists who traveled to Cyprus from the 18^th to the 20^th centuries, and memorabilia which brings alive the Cypriot story, the daily life of previous eras and the political tug of war which led up to the division of the island.

Consider taking an adventure tour by crossing into North Nicosia via the checkpoint on Ledra Street – at the end of the south’s section most chic shopping strip – you’ll emerge into the dusty Arabahmet Quarter, where once elegant Ottman architecture has sunk into a state of teetering dilapidation. Sandwiched into a wedge of Old Town rubbing up against the curve of the Venetian walls to the west and the ragtag barricades of the Green Line to the south, the tall townhouses here were once home to a mix of high-up Ottoman officials and Armenian traders. This Armenian community was ousted in 1963, but vestiges of its tenure can easily be picked out from the crosses carved into door lintels and by visiting Arabahmet’s recently restored Armenian Church, the community’s main place of worship before the separation. Nearby, Zahra Sokak runs along the edge of the Old Town’s walls with vistas across the empty moat. It’s a strange concept to get your head around but consider how it felt for residents before crossing the Green Line was normalized in 2003, when this was one of the few places where Greek and Turkish Cypriots could see and speak to each other up close.

Crossing back into Nicosia via the same checkpoint, you’ll be swept back into city life. Lined with boutiques and major European brands, this is where the action moved after the island’s division. Side streets buzz with bars and cafes, where customers spill out onto pavement seating until the wee hours, while buskers brandishing guitars and accordions crank out competing tunes. Just make this trip happen as, under normal circumstances, crossing the Green Line is easy for most international visitors, although crossings can be suspended at times of political tension, or for public health reasons. Main checkpoints are at Ledra Street and at Ledra Palace. Bring your passport; both checkpoints are open 24 hours a day and there are no restrictions on the number of times you can make the crossing. Non-EU passport holders should arrive in Cyprus at either Larnaka or Pafos airports or Limassol cruise terminal. Greek authorities can officially bar entry to non-EU citizens who fly into Ercan airport or arrive via ferry from Turkey into the Turkish Republic of North Cyprus.

Strike out beyond the sun-soaked stretches of sand to discover an island of compelling culture and landscapes steeped in myth and riddled with ancient riches. From hosting some of the world’s most historic sites to the vibrant Mediterranean culture, the many charms of Cyprus make it an irresistible destination. Here are some reasons why you need to include this warm island on your travel bucket list.

Cyprus is situated at a crossroad of three continents – as a result, its cuisine is a mixture and refinement of a variety of Southern European, Middle Eastern, and Central Asian influences. Locals are known to love vegetables, and this is reflected in the number of vegetable dishes served – whether fried or eaten raw, served cold in cream or with yogurt, or first dried and then cooked, the choice is yours. For a truly local experience, try the much-loved traditional meat or vegetable wraps fillings such as durum (Turkish wrap). A trip to Cyprus wouldn’t be complete without the traditional sweets. Both the Turkish Cypriots and the Greek Cypriots delight in making s desserts by dipping a string of walnuts or almonds into fruit juice – mostly grape – with honey, before then being left to dry in the sun. These and other easy-to-make syrupy sweets are often served with coffee or tea. You can find them in the markets or on major thoroughfares.

Once you have eaten your fill, it’s time to discover some ancient history – Cyprus has one of the oldest histories dating as far back as 1100 BC. Try taking a trip to Salamis, a city which was once host to successive superpowers including Assyrians, Egyptians, Persians and Romans; or opt for Soli, an ancient Cypriot city kingdom located near Lefke and linked with St Mark. Though excavation in Soli is yet to be completed, there are several ancient churches, museums and other monuments scattered across the island.

Cyprus enjoys mild winters, longer summers and short autumn and spring periods. This typical Mediterranean climate is attractive, especially to Europeans wishing to escape bad weather in their home countries. There are generally at least six hours of bright sunshine every day, even in the middle of winter, giving visitors a truly pleasant climate all year round. Cyprus is known for its beautiful sandy beaches with clean waters – the European Environment Agency recognizes Cyprus's beaches as the cleanest in Europe. For swimming and other water sports, the island boasts over 40 official blue flag beaches. From each city, you can enjoy a part of the Mediterranean Sea, with the most expansive coastlines being Larnarca, Famagusta, Aiya Napa, Kyrenia, Limassol and Paphos.

Cyprus is the most peaceful place on earth, with rugged mountains and picturesque countryside. Additionally, it is a safe haven, hosting immigrants from surrounding war-torn countries. The friendliness of the locals is admirable. You will see friends exchange lengthy pleasantries accompanied by affectionate pecks – Cypriots are known for their laidback and warm nature. Turkish-Cypriots are known for their love of having a good time – a year in North Cyprus is a colorful festival-filled period, as the variety of events ensures that there is something for everyone. From the walnut festival to the Memetçik grape celebration, olive fêtes and Agri Cyprus fair, tourists are promised a magnificent experience all year round.

With the world becoming increasingly impatient, stress-filled, and anxious, we all need to take a moment to relax and enjoy life. Cyprus offers you once in-a-lifetime carefree and slow-paced days to enjoy long walks by the beach, or to take a ride through the mountains or forests surrounded by flowers and plants. If you care about Mother Nature, you can enjoy agro-tourism holidays in the heart of Cyprus. Agro-tourism holiday options offer visitors a chance to enjoy the Cypriot culture and rural life like a local. You are free to try your hand at breadmaking, olive picking or milking the sheep among numerous other activities. If you wish, you can also learn a craft or observe locals as they create artefacts from scratch.

For visitors who wish to appreciate a life of luxury in Cyprus, there are several options – from family-run luxury hotels to five-star resorts, you are guaranteed the allure of the traditional Cypriot hospitality combined with modern sophistication. Cyprus is also home to a few casinos, world-class sporting, and spa facilities for your entertainment, notably in spots such as the Famagusta beaches and Karpas.

Cyprus is relatively a small island – most distances from one city to another can be covered by car, giving visitors the chance to see the island in a short time. How would you like waking up to a traditional Turkish Cypriot breakfast in North Cyprus, devouring lunch at one of the border towns after a visit to the Walls of Nicosia, then later on, enjoying the evening sea-breeze from your beachhammock overlooking the extensive Mediterranean Sea in South Cyprus as you wait for your fresh fish to bake? It’s all possible here.

Getting around the island is easy and affordable. Whether you rent your own wheels, use the comprehensive bus system or wave down a taxi, getting where you want to go will rarely be a challenge. Distances are small and roads are well maintained along the coast and between major towns. Even traveling between the southern and northern sections is easier than it used to be - just be sure to check current visa requirements first.

Buses are inexpensive and convenient, although note that there are no direct bus services across the Green Line. Generally, you’ll need to take one bus to Nicosia or North Nicosia then cross the border on foot and catch another bus on the other side. In the south, regular Intercity buses link main towns and many rural villages, and there are useful urban networks in the capital, Larnaka, Lemesos and Pafos. Buses run from Monday to Saturday, with reduced schedules on Sunday. Also, all bus services stop by 6pm. Pay attention: services to small villages may only run once or twice a day or on specific days of the week. Fares are cheap and tickets can be purchased on the bus – always use cash! Within the five bus regions in the south, travel costs €1.50 ($1.70) per ride, €5 ($5.80) per day, €15 ($17.30) per week and €40 ($46) for a month of unlimited journeys. InterCity Bus fares between regions are also reasonable – a trip from Larnaka to Nicosia costs €4 ($4.60). A ticket good for unlimited travel for one day costs €15 ($17.30).

The easiest way to get around Cyprus is with your own wheels. All the major international rental companies have offices at the two airports in the south and in towns popular with tourists. In addition, there are numerous local agencies on both sides of the island. In summer, reserve a car in advance to lock in lower rates and guarantee availability; at busy times, all the vehicles may be snapped up.
You need a license valid in your home country to rent anything with an engine larger than 50cc, and you must be aged 21 or over in the south, and 18 or over in North Cyprus. While it is theoretically possible to take a rental car from the south to the north, rental agencies discourage this. Ask about any extra insurance needed to do this when you pick up the vehicle. It is not possible to take a vehicle rented in the north to the south. Road conditions across Cyprus are good, but driving skills are variable and the island has a high accident rate. Both sides of the island drive on the left.



Did You Know?

· Cyprus is also known for its significance in Greek mythology as the birthplace of Aphrodite.

· Home of the world’s oldest water wells. The stone-age wells that were discovered in Paphos have been studied and it is purported that they have been around for about 10,500 years.

· Alexander the Great seized the island from the Assyrians, Egyptians, and Persians in 333 BC.

· Cyprus became independent from the British in 1960, on August 16^th. However, they celebrate their Independence Day on October 1^st every year.

· As per topcyprustaxi.eu, taxi drivers in Cyprus do not give change. They keep the change as a tip. A quick tip to save money is to tender exact change to the taxi driver.

· Oddly, Cypriots do not like fishing, and they do not fish, despite being an island nation.

· In Cyprus, there are some restaurants that are only for men.

· The island shape is like that of a cigar pipe.

· The world’s oldest wine label belongs to Cyprus. Yes, you heard it right! “Commandaria” is recognized as the world’s oldest named wine dating back 5000 years.

· Cyprus is the only foreign venue at which an English Royal Wedding has been hosted. The wedding happened between King Richard and Queen Joanna on May 12, 1191.

· There is a tree in Cyprus known to fulfill wishes. This tree at the entrance to the Christian catacombs in Paphos is adorned with handkerchiefs and ribbons. People believe that infertile women will bear children and people will return to their loved ones when something that belonged to them is tied to the tree along with a belief that good will happen.

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Comments

[D MJ Binkley]

Cyprus X 3
Most people don't know the history of Cyprus and understand its divisions. You did a nice job of explaining it. We are independent travelers also and look forward to going to Cyprus in the near future. You are well traveled. If you aren't a member of the Century Travelers Club you should consider checking it out.