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Published: April 23rd 2013
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Ferry to Antiparos
Bright sun for a short ride Slept in until 9:00 – felt luxurious! Breakfast was “ordinary” – the same menu I saw so-called on a café board. Juice, breads, cake, boiled egg, cereal, yogurt, cold meats, cheese and coffee/tea.
Our touring started at 10:30 with a short drive to the ferry to Antiparos. Although I was worried about the strong wind and white caps, actually the motion wasn’t too bad for the ten-minute crossing. As previously, I stood outside at the stern. Then we drove to caves that were opened especially for us – we gave a ride to the guard there and back. When we drove up, some other tourists were leaving, disappointed that the caves weren’t open so early in the year. They turned around and joined us.
The caves were a deep, ancient formation of stalactites and stalagmites. New cement steps (440!) and electric lights led down, down, down. Some steps were wet from drips, and we could hear faint echoes from the dripping. The formations were thick, clotted with many tiny needles making more. Near the bottom, now protected, were graffittied names from as far back as 1776, the time of Ottoman battles. Other dates were 1876, 1930 and 1951.
Cave of Antiparos
Surrounded by stalagmites and stalactites lit in eery warm light Antiparos is a small island that used to be a part of Paros in geological time. We drove to a beach (where some kids were swimming in clothes – cold wind blowing yet again). We gazed at another, smaller island that is an archeological site – uninhabited except for a shepherd and his sheep. Also we could see a little church. Kriton told us there is a saint for every day of the year and at least one church for each saint. On Antiparos there are 600 churches, many of them tiny and visited by a priest only on Christmas, Easter and the Saint’s day.
Outside a nearby café, octopi were drying on a line and on a tree branch. Later I found out that the word “drying” meant only “drying off”. They are hung until the water evaporates, leaving the sea salt behind, after which they are grilled.
We drove into the main town for our own lunch – similar to yesterday’s except the kebobs were pork – fairly juicy - and no dessert. Afterwards we walked around on our own for a short while. Then Kriton walked us up the main shopping street to where a
castle once stood. I was distracted by a display of silver rings, one of which I bought because it reminded me of my Nigerian puzzle ring lost decades ago – double souvenir. The vendor complemented me on my Greek pronunciation and chatted animatedly. Turned out he was Danish.
Back on Paros and at the hotel we were on our own for dinner. Mary and Jean and I ambled into town along groomed paths to and by the seaport. We meandered here and there until stopping for dinner at an outdoor café. The temperature was bearable in all our warm clothes. I had “Chef’s Pasta” (olives bacon and green peppers in a tomato sauce) plus a first – draft beer, called Alfa.
At 11:15 p.m. Kriton led four of us into town for the Good Saturday ceremonies. Many people were in the square near the cathedral. We went into the church courtyard, but Kriton recommended we return to the square and not move into the church itself. In the growing crowd we waited, enjoying the solemn and joyous mood. With no ceremony but near midnight we could see people’s candles being lit, one from another. We had bought our
Easter morning
Thrilled to be part of the midnight welcoming of Easter candles along the way. I shared the flame of a nearby Greek man, and a bit later shared mine with others. A few preliminary firecrackers sounded. Suddenly the church bells rang and lots of large firecrackers sounded, shrouding parts of the square in gunpowder smoke. After a bit, we began walking back to the hotel, trying to protect our flames from the wind. For a while we relit our candles from each other. Then a crosswind from a cross-street blew out everyone’s flame but Kriton’s; until a cross-wind extinguished his also.
An unexpected benefit of this expedition was that someone on our tour told me that the air-conditioning unit also works as a heater. Much more comfortable in the room now, although we all continue to wear every piece of warm clothing, and one woman from California had to buy a padded jacket.
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Isabel Gibson
non-member comment
Intentional?
Did you juxtapose the stalactites and the octopi intentionally? I may never go in another cave!