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Published: August 6th 2007
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Ancient Theatre of Epidavrous
I've wanted to visit this place for at least the last 25 years. The title of this blog is a quote from Ilias, the guy at the hotel who has been looking after us for the last four days. I haven't seen much of Greece yet, but already I am starting to believe him. Ilias has taken care of everything. He tells us our itinerary for the day, he sorts our banking, he gives his number to the laundromat so that he can explain what we want, he provides maps, he organises the car, provides important logistical and historical information on the places we are visiting and generally has become our best friend in Greece. Today he offered to take us touring to Sparta with his mates on his day off. We declined because it would have meant leaving the hotel by 8am - but the offer was very tempting. Of course, he left his mobile number with us just in case we changed our minds.
Thanks to Ilias - here are the highlights of the Pelopennese (all available as day trips from Corinth).
Epidavrous Theatre
An ancient theatre that formed part of the sanctuary of Asclepius. The sanctuary was dedicated to the healing arts and the museum houses a great many
The promenade at Nafplio
Great food, excellent location artefacts and statues that show the serpent twining round the stick - the emblem that we continue to associate with the medical profession. The theatre is a marvel of ancient acoustics and we were lucky enough to practise a little while we were there. I managed to recite some Banjo Patterson to give the place a little Aussie flavour. The seats still look great and those that are left intact around the walkways that punctuate the seat levels show clearly that they were sculpted in a kind of arm-chair fashion that would not look out of place today.
Nafplio
A sea-side town that was the first capital of Greece after the liberation from the Turks and the formation of the modern Greek state in the early 19th Century. Greece is a little strange in that it has a clear ancient history but its modern identity is actually younger than Australia. Nafplio is extremely pretty - thank goodness they moved the capital to Athens - it would have been a shame to ruin such a gorgeous landscape. We had a great lunch here. We were lured in by offers of free wine and when we asked for the bill, they
also gave us free desert. Grilled octopus, egg salad, taramasalata, bread, lemon chicken, creme brulee. We didn't need to eat again that evening.
Palamidi Fortress
Spectacular. Looming over Nafplio, it is a maze of medieval architecture grown over with masses of spring flowers and looking out directly over the Meditteranean. We didn't expect much and were blown away by the beauty. We felt like kids running around some kind of Tomb Raider game, looking for ways up or out and snapping the camera constantly. What a wonderful fortress it would have made - the enemy would have been totally bamboozled by the illogicality of stairs that seem to go nowhere and secret tunnels into different levels. Even if they could find their way, they would have been so distracted by the view they couldn't hope to win.
Mycenae
Mum, do you remember studying the Myceanaeans with me, Marie, Elizabeth and Helen Rooza as a Sydney University open learning course? I still have the workbooks at home. Now, it makes sense - sort of. They were always on about pots. I kind of get the significance of the pots now. The Mycenaeans were the first organised empire in Greece.
Yeah, you can get through!
Richard briefly ponders taking the stairs down the side of a cliff The centre of their civilisation at modern Mikines is astounding for its architecure and art. 1300BC. That's a long time ago. Agammemnon (Leader of the Greek forces who sailed to Troy in order to retreive Helen) has a tomb there (the guidebooks give only fleeting credence to this King's true identity). When you stand in the middle of the tomb and speak, the sound bounces off the walls and it feels like your voice is coming at you from all directions.
Langadia
Ilias recommended Langadia as our coffee stop on the way to Olympia. He didn't tell us why. When we got there we found dramatic cliffs with the village perched into the side. The houses are made of stone - very pretty - and we seemed to be the only non-greeks in town.
Olympia
Famous of course as the site of the first Olympics. It has the best ancient museum that we have visited on our trip - stunning artefacts and really beautiful grounds. The site's artefacts date back to the 10th century BC. Successive civilisations have added to the sanctuary that was famous throughout the ancient world as the centre of athletic excellence. Today, it looks
Lost
in the mediteranean like a pile of really old stones in a really pretty park. Some ancient buildings are still basically intact and the stadium still looks like a race track. It even has the 'tunnel' that modern footballers and tennis players use to enter the arena.
Kalavryta
This place was recommended to me by a waiter in Athens. The drive in was certainly stunning - lots of mountains, huge rocky outcrops and specatular sea views. We were supposed to get a scenic train from Diakofto but the service was no longer running (despite Kalavryta marketing itself with faux tracks running up the centre of town). The town itself was something of a local tourist spot - greek only and very pretty, but the food was disappointing.
Corinth Canal
Kind of like the Suez, only Greek. Planning took thousands of years. The idea to cut a canal through the isthmus to join the Corinthian gulf to the Saronic gulf was first raised in the 7th century BC. Throughout ancient times, many tried to dig a canal but were overwhelmed by the enormity of the project or scared by the superstition of the people who feared the wrath of the Gods for
In the Tomb of Agamemnon
Richard wonders if he should shut the door and run. interfering with creation on such a dramatic scale. The Roman emporer Nero ordered 6000 slaves to begin the project but work ceased when Nero was called back to a political crisis at home. The building of the Suez canal finally sparked a little gumption in the Corinthians and they managed to complete the project about 2700 years after it was begun.
So, there is our trip to the Peloponnese. We are now on the Ionian island of Zakynthos. On the advice of Ilias, we decided to change our plans to visit the Cyclades. Oh well, we'll see what comes.
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Cheryl
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Beautiful
I am so glad that you have met Ilias because now you have managed to capture the beauty of Greece. This entry is far different to your first impressions of Greece in 'Letter from Corinth'. The meal you had in Nafplio sounded wonderful. You know how I love Greek food. I suppose it's a little too far to go for lunch! Luke said he could spend hours exploring the Palamidi Fortress. Sounds like its something out of the games he's constantly playing. Anyway still enjoying the History, Geography, Cultural, Language, Driving and probably many other lessons. Keep it up, Cheryl.