Advertisement
Published: June 15th 2013
Old Palace
Shivers from walking where people walked almost 4 millennia ago!is surprisingly close to Heraklion – about a twenty-minute drive. The development is a park, and we entered through a gate with coffee shop and a small garden. Moving from there into the rock remains is so gradual that it almost surprised me to recognize the structural remnants of many walls. Kriton gave us a thorough introduction – much of which we have heard before from him or the lecturers. This repetition is not boring; it reinforces the information, so that some is actually sinking into our consciousness.
We first saw the Old Palace site, to one side and actually under the New Palace site. The New Palace era started after the earthquake and
volcano in Santorini in 1740 BC. We learned that much of the interpretation is still based on the work of one of those confident, indefatigable Victorians, named
Arthur Evans . He wasn’t an archeologist, and many disagree with him and his confidence, but some things have been proved right. Kriton pointed out that in his time (1900), archeology was in its infancy. Evans bought the site, and one of his most controversial actions was to rebuild parts of the main structure, based on existing frescoes. This is
Minotaur Bull
Protected now by an estimation of the original building considered to be fairly accurate, although his naming of the functions of the rooms is most conjecture based on Victorian notions. To his credit, some say, he used cement treated on the surface to look like wood, thus showing what was not original. This did preserve some structures from the weather, particularly floors. However, concrete is heavy which is causing original bearing stones to deteriorate at an unacceptable rate, thus requiring the work to be re-done with other materials.
A more modern theory postulates that this is the locale of the
Minotaur stories. In the centre of Knossos and all Minoan palaces is a large courtyard; this one is about the size of a school football field. From frescoes it appears that there was a sort of sport called “bull leaping”, involving grasping the bull’s horns and somersaulting onto his back and off again. Prisoners may have been led through the dozens of inter-connected palace rooms (maze) and made to try to leap the bull – almost impossible for the uninitiated.
Added bonus was that the day was sunny – warmth for the first time on this holiday! Jean and I enjoyed our free time by relaxing with
Remains of rooms
Were these residences with beautiful views? a large glass of freshly squeezed lemon juice – a first for both of us. A packet of sugar enhanced the refreshing taste.
We drove further into the countryside to a museum dedicated to
Kazantzakis , the author of Zorba the Greek. I am so glad to have seen this museum, because I had no idea that he was a whirlwind of activity, all portrayed in this specially built museum as a part of the European Union celebration of literature. His literary output shames even Dickens! He translated Ulysses and wrote his own version in verse, plus he translated innumerable other works for adults and children. He wrote many novels and plays, plus children’s books. He was a politician, philosopher and diplomat who travelled the world. He finished his life with a philosophical, autobiographical novel. He is a hero to the Greek people and no wonder!
Another short drive through Kazantzakis’s hometown of Myrthia, and we were at a new tavern developed from a converted wine press. We had the usual collection of appetizers, all delicious. The spinach pie/pastry was excellent – the first I’ve had because there was no cheese in it. Our main course was different
Crete
Here grow the salad vegetables for most of Greece. from the usual – a tomato stuffed with herbed rice and a stuffed vine leaf on the side. The tomato was deliciously sweet and flavourful. The bread, always good, was especially nutty – excellent!
Our drive back to Heraklion ended at the hotel parking lot in time to visit the shop of the potter, Vassilis, directly across the parking lot. Our appreciation of the items in the store was much elevated by our “education” yesterday. Although not traditional, I bought a large, glazed coffee mug with the dolphin motif. I will use it sometimes, rather than setting something on the china cabinet with too many other things. The mug is signed by him and is almost as light as the unique egg-shell pottery he makes. At €24, it is the most expensive mug I would buy, but worth the knowledge behind it. Just as I was making my purchase, Vassilis came into the shop and was delighted to see us. He told Joi that an American group earlier in the week hadn’t been at all interested in his presentation, so he enjoyed our engagement and delight.
Thoroughly pooped, I returned to the hotel to rest and catch up
on travel notes. Dinner at the hotel.
Advertisement
Tot: 0.075s; Tpl: 0.011s; cc: 10; qc: 34; dbt: 0.0332s; 1; m:domysql w:travelblog (10.17.0.13); sld: 1;
; mem: 1.1mb
Jean C.
non-member comment
Thanks!
Thanks one more time for refreshing my memory with descriptions and pictures. I can taste that lemonade! Warm wishes, Jean C.