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Published: April 22nd 2017
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Tuesday 18th April, our last full day in the Kissamos area. As we didn't want to travel too far and, also, to get some exercise we decided to walk part of the Topolia Gorge and to have a look at the cave shrine close to the southern entrance of the Gorge. It was less than 10 miles from our hotel to the Gorge and we stopped to take some photos at a car park near the northern entrance of the single track road tunnel that's been bored through the mountain at the narrowest and steepest section of the Gorge. While there we bought some very tasty locally produced honey and lemon raki before continuing through the tunnel and stopping the other side below a staircase leading up to a taverna; and onwards to the Cave of Agia Sophia. Just above the taverna and below the
Topolia Gorge
Traffic heading south waiting to transit the tunnelcave there was a big party underway with around 100 locals feasting, drinking and listening to traditional music played by a 5 man band in traditional dress . We found out later that the second day after Easter is the festival of God's Wisdom that there's some connection between this festival and the Cave of Agia Sophia, hence the large number of locals celebrating. We had a look around the cave which is very large though not very deep, and it's been fitted with chairs, altar and lectern so that services for quite large numbers of people can be held inside. We stopped off for a drink at the taverna on the way down where we were persuaded to buy more honey raki and thyme honey; and had our photo taken with the owner of the taverna and producer of the raki and honey who was also wearing traditional dress; and is apparently a well know local character (to judge by the number of copies of press cuttings of him on the walls of the taverna). Then we continued a short distance along the main road to another taverna which advertised itself as the entrance to the hike through the
Topolia Gorge
At the entrance to the Agia Sophia cave Gorge. We followed the signs to the path only to find ourselves in a field with no track or further signs to follow, so we returned to the taverna and asked to be shown the way. It seems that we had gone the correct way but should have continued through a small rickety gate (more like a bit of moveable fence), down an embankment and across an overgrown and derelict olive grove. We did this and found the proper path alongside the stream that runs through the Gorge. So we continued along the path for about 30 minutes until we were at the deepest point of the Gorge, below where the road enters the tunnel: a nice easy walk in warm sun with massive cliffs rearing either side. There we met a British couple who were evidently serious hikers as they had all the gear with backpacks, hiking boots and big sunhats and were walking at quite a fast pace. From what they told us we had done the best bit of the walk and as we didn't want to continue in more difficult terrain with no further scenic reward we turned back. When we got back to the taverna
we shared a delicious freshly squeezed orange juice and then carried on to Milia for lunch. It was was much quieter at Milia than on Easter Sunday, when it was very crowded, and we had no trouble getting a table outside in the sun. Another good lunch though this time with much slower service despite there appearing to be the same number of staff. We attempted a different route back to Kissamos via the top end of the Sirikari Gorge but found that the road had been washed away and that our little car hire could not cope with the "temporary" graded road. So after a multi-point turn we retraced our way back to the original road and back to Kissamsos and a final, excellent, dinner at Stelios and Katina next to our hotel.
Wednesday 19th April: relocation to Rethymno. As it was only 58 miles to Rethymno, along a highway that we were very familiar with at least as far as Chania, we took it easy and enjoyed the drive: taking care to watch out for radar traps - fortunately sign-posted in advance. We found our hotel, the Macaris, easily enough and were so impressed with the quality
The Cave of Agia Sophia
With impressive stalagmites and the obligatory hermit's chapel at one end. Well used, as traces of Neolithic occupation have been found there. of the room (a large suite with bedroom, bathroom and comfortable living area, including kitchenette) that we extended our two night booking for the remaining 5 nights. Later we walked into the Old Town section of the city which must have been charming back in the day but now let down by over-priced tourist shops and, especially, by the amount of graffiti on the walls of the otherwise pretty terraced houses that line the narrow streets. We also managed to take a look at the Fortezza, Rethymno's No 1 attraction, a very large and impressive fortification overlooking the old Venetian harbour and old town. Then it was back to our very nice hotel, room service dinner and bed.
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