Nuremberg, Rothenburg and Dinkelsbuhl

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Geo: 49.0689, 10.3202

We had to drag Brennan out of bed about 8:30. G&G were not so lucky; woke up about 1:30 and didn't sleep much after that. Breakfast at the hotel would have been 20 euro for the three of us and it didn't look that good (continental plus sliced meat and cheese). We opted to wander and found a nice bakery only a few blocks away. We shared a pesto-flavored breakfast sandwich, a chocolate pastry, hot chocolate and coffee.

We headed toward the Bahnhof and the craft market there. Unfortunately, the shops at the market were just starting to show signs of life, so we headed back toward the hotel. The place looked so different from yesterday and last night; people hustling around and stores open or opening. We did stop along the way for one last Nuremberg bratwurst from a street vendor. We also purchased a pear, apples and clementines from a fruit stand.

We headed to the Nazi Stadium area where Hitler held so many rallies in the 1930's. It is now almost all in ruins from neglect, with the surrounding area made up of sports complexes. We climbed the steps of the main structure where Hitler stood to whip the 200,000 spectators into a frenzy. Pretty impressive and walking around you can see why Germany has not totally razed the area -- "shall we never forget".

The hour drive to Rothenburg was hectic on the autobahn for the first half and totally pleasant on the side roads through the rural rolling countryside of the second half. We saw several castles along the drive. On approaching Rothenburg, it's steeples, towers, medieval wall dominate the hilltop that the city covers -- simply beautiful.

We parked at a lot outside the wall and dove into this fantastic place. It is like walking back into medieval time, completely walled, cobblestoned streets, church steeples, turrets, etc.

One of the local specialties is the -schneeballen (snow balls), a confectionary delight, the size of a snowball. They are made of what appears to be strips of pie dough, wrapped in a ball. They now come in all favors, though the originals were just covered in powdered sugar. We bought a powdered and caramel ball, and a decorative two-ball tin to put them in.

All the narrow streets were lined with shops and Brennan's favorite had to be the one filled with Medieval knight armor, swords, and various paraphernalia. His second favorite shop was the one that had a bubble-blowing teddy bear that constantly blew bubbles onto the square in front of the shop.

Believe the highlight for all of us was walking the rampart along the top of the wall. The views looking down on the city's red roofs and rising spires were spectacular.

We looked for a place for lunch and the two recommended places were both closed on Monday. We stumbled onto this great little hotel/Gasthof Breiterle. The hostess, waitress and cook, were one and the same. We all shared a very tender beef steak, wiener schnitzel, potato salad, fries and a mixed salad. We had found that sharing two dinners between us was the way to go.

The central clock tower was pretty cool with moving marionettes coming out drinking on the hour. Something about how a mayor of Rothenburg saved the town by drinking three liters of wine --nonstop!!!

The short drive to Dinkelsbuehl was almost all via autobahn. As we entered town through a stoned arched gate, with a turret rising above, the first thing you notice are the steep-pitched roofs of the buildings and all are painted with decorative scenes -- in a word, beautiful!

Our hotel, Gasthaus zur Sonne, was right on the main street, in the center of town. We registered in the gasthaus area and were taken up to our room on the 3rd floor. Very spacious with nice views of the side street below and Brennan's bed was all set up.

With Sue getting no sleep last night, she opted for a nap right away and Brennan and Grandpa headed out to explore. We expected many more shops and activity but there was literally one gift shop and it was already closed at only 4:30.

We walked the entire commercial area in less than 30 minutes. We went into St. George church which dominated the central plaza. It is a beautiful single spired church with an impressive main altar. Men were setting up a replica Dinkelsbuehl village inside the church. What we expect, was part of an eventual Christmas display. We lit a votive candle for Grandma.

We found what would be Dinkelsbuehl's Christkindle Markt. It would open tomorrow and people were busy setting it up. Down a narrow, two street level alley, we could see the makings of a very intimate three block Markt. Unfortunately, we were a day early!

Trying to give Grandma at least an hour nap, we stopped in a bakery and had a hot chocolate and coffee. Back to the room, Brennan joined Grandma in dream land while Grandpa headed down to the Gasthaus for a "small" beer and to work on the journal. After about an hour, he joined Grandma and Brennan, all sleeping until almost 9:30.

We rushed down to our Gasthaus and were the last to order before the kitchen closed at 10:00. We shared dinners of cordon blue and pork medallions, spätzle and a salad.

"Sort of rested" we headed out to enjoy the night air and did a little window shopping. This was the first that Grandma actually saw the town. Everything seemed to be closed but a hotel bar across the street from zum Sonne. We had decided on a nightcap, and it was the only option. We could have done the same thing at our place for half the price, but when we headed in at about 11:00, they were locking the doors and heading out.

We headed to bed and gave thanks for another good day.

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