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Published: October 7th 2007
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I decided to ride up the river for 30-40 kms to visit Weltenburg, which has the world's oldest monastic brewery founded in 1058 and an over the top Baroque decorated church dated 1716. It is set on a remote, somewhat inaccessable part of the river with high limestone cliffs and forest on either side. I cycled along the river on extremely well maintained paths along with other cyclists and the odd rollerblader- some of whom are in their middle to late age. It is still strange for me to see older people cycling everywhere. I headed to Kelheim which is the point where the Danube becomes really navigatable. I took the boat to Weltenburg to see the high narrow limestone sides of the river, rather than ride over the hill. It was Sunday and the crowds were incredible going up by boat to enjoy the main square surrounded by the Church and monastry, eating and drinking as the Germans appear apt to do at any opportunity. I checked into a wonderful 'Gastehaus' (read Guest house- obvious isn't it?) which was extremely well cared for with a very peaceful garden setting and breakfast room with plenty of glass to take in the
view. ($30). I wandered up the hill flanked with deciduous trees in colour and wandered through the forest on the top of the hill which looks down on the monastry and river bend.
Weltenburg - Tegernheim
It was a long ride today of about 100kms. It was more than I wanted really as the place where I headed to, Donaustauf, just out of Regensburg had all of it's accomodation filled. As some of the places were up fairly steep hills I was a bit disappointed to find this out! I had to return several kms to the previous town. It is a lesson to me to not leave it too late in the day to find accomodation. The path and signs along the way continue to be very good. It's lovely to ride and not worry about cars. Even on the road there are few cars and they are so much more aware and respectful of cyclists.
I started the day cycling up the hill and down into Kelheim where I spent an hour or so walking up through stunning forest with great views down to the Danube to see the Befrecunghalle (read Liberation Hall and don't try
saying it in German after a stein or two) which holds an imposing position over the town and river. King Ludwig 1 built it in 1863 as a memorial in honour of the military struggles against Napoleon in 1813 - 1815 and German independence. It is a round hall on an extremely grand scale. Why is it religion and war that inspires people to build such impressive edifices? I'll let my photos tell the story.
Tegernheim - Bogan
Well the beautiful weather has stopped and I had to don the wet weather gear and head off in the rain. Not particularly cold or heavy rain but fairly persistant. I talked with a couple of older couples travelling together (One from Canberra & one from UK). It helped setting off together in the rain about the same time and meeting up again on the trail. It was good to know I was wasn't alone in the rian. I was pleased to stop for something to eat and look aroung Straubing with its coloured buildings in an impressive main street. Feeling damp, I pushed on another 12 kms to Bogan to shorten the next stretch to Passau. I'm staying in
a nice 'Gastehaus' and enjoyed having a long luxurious bath (no water shortages here) while my things dried sprawled out across the room and on the oil filled heaters attached to the walls.
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silvana
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Just Beautiful!
Dear Peter, What an awesome adventure through this countries. I wish i was there with you. All the best keep safe! Love Silvana