Between the Waters

---

"Any traveling cyclist can relate the feeling of carefree abandon and catharis that pedaling evokes as layers upon layers of mental and emotional encrustations are shed. Each turn, each hill is another discovery, illuminating a place, a sensation and a perception until then hidden from view. Nothing is so utterly alive and well as the spirit of a traveler on a bicycle." ~ James E. Starr

Another gorgeous, easy ride along the River Lot today. We stopped for a brief snack in the teeny, tiny town of Vieillevie. Just as we were preparing to leave, we heard music and saw a group of cyclists nearby. A quick look revealed a group called Odyssey of Hope (at least, I think that is the correct translation) -- two dozen or so physically handicapped cyclists riding who-knows-how-far with various accommodations on their bikes. Some were pedaling with just their arms; some were attached to other cyclists. A courageous group who were obviously shedding "layers upon layers of mental and emotional encrustations."

Our ride along the river brought us here to Entraygues, which means "between the waters," at the confluence of the Lot and the Truyere Rivers. A pretty little town founded in the 10th century. Though the original 13th century fortified castle was looted and destroyed in 1587, the town itself, consisting of 15th-17th century timbered houses is extremely well preserved. As I type this up, Bill is watching the Tour de France. Can't understand much cause it's broadcast in French, but it's kinda cool to see the cyclists pedaling through the towns and countryside with which we have become so familiar. Besides, it's the first access we've had to a television in several weeks. We have no idea what's happening around the world.

We are camping in an expenisve but very nice campground --toilet paper and free Wi-Fi. Evidently, the town has its weekly market on Wednesday evening, so we are heading in there in just a few minutes to find dinner.

Later . . . .
Just returned from dinner. What an interesting experience. Dozens of vendors had set up in the town square -- wine, baked goods, confit de canard, honey, pancakes, steaks, melons . . . you name it, and someone was selling it. Most were also giving away free samples of their stuff, which meant that I got to taste pate de foie gras, snails, and other stuff I never would have tried.

We first bought some pastries and ate dessert first. Then a delicious melon; then Bill got a steak while I got a sausage (which was really a big hunk of seasoned pork -- yum!!). Then we bought some things that I can't remember the name of but they were like corn fritters. One was made of spinach; the other, apples. Washed everything down with a cold beer.

Tomorrow is a short ride before we hit the big mountains on Friday. But right now, I have dishes to wash.

---

Photos

Odyssey of Hope
Handicapped bikers and their support riders leave Vieillevie to experience
'"the spirit of a traveler on a bicycle."

Dinner a la Entreaygues
Vendors were set up around the town square to sell honey, wine, steaks, sausage, crepes, apple fritters, etc.
A feast was had!