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Published: August 13th 2009
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In May we again set foot on foreign soil, this time a second visit to France. Faith very kindly got up very early to take us to St Pancras station to board the Eurostar for a quick trip under the channel to Paris. There we were met by Lea’s grandparents Elke and Jean-Pierre. We had stayed with them last year at their mountain home near Mt Blanc. After a very quick drive around the Paris sights we headed south to their converted farmhouse at Chevry. Once again they had both added their special French touch to the house and gardens. We spent 2 days there cycling the countryside, sampling local food and wine (the latter from Jean-Pierrre’s cavernous underground cellar), visiting the market at Fontainbleu and viewing the chateau from the outside. Unfortunately some months earlier Elke had broken her hip and was still having difficulty moving around, although cycling was no problem. It was hard to see her like this as she had been so active on our walks in the mountains the previous visit. We hope her health continues to improve.
Next day we set off to view three chateaux in the Loire Valley. Chambord was our first
Feeding time
As soon as the clock strikes 5 they start howling until let near the food (chicken carcases from a nearby slaughterhouse plus pellets and meal) - then they really start barking. They are held back from the food for a minute or so then all go for it when given the signal. stop and as the largest chateau in France it was very impressive. Lots of ornate towers and an outside spiral staircase. Next stop was at Cheverny, not nearly so big and impressive but famous for the hunting themes on tapestries featured through the building and the pack of hunting dogs they keep - they are used for hunting on 60 - 70 days a year. These dogs are fed at 5pm, putting on a show for those visitors who are happy to watch and listen to 90 dogs baying for their food and being kept from it until given the signal they could eat. Within seconds there was silence, only the occasional sound of a snarl and a cracking whip to sort out the squabbles. Not for vegetarians or the faint hearted. That night was spent at a B and B owned by friends so we were treated to a more personal stay - the buildings had been the cloisters of an old nunnery and had lovely gardens down to a river. Thank you to our hosts. Next day was Chenenceau - created from a manor and watermill dating from 1512. It is built over the river and during WWII
Katrin at work in the LaBorne Pottery
Katrin does most of the manufacturing while Roland takes care of the firing and business side of things became the “secret” gateway from occupied to free France. It also has some very beautiful formal gardens and a very big farm and walled vegetable garden. We enjoyed all three as each one was so different from the others. That afternoon we arrived at Lea’s family home in La Borne. This village is well known for its pottery and both of Lea’s parents are potters, having met here when they were apprenticed to local potters. Unfortunately it is becoming increasingly difficult for them to make a living from their work and Roland is not happy with those people who came and settle in the area to do pottery as a hobby - thereby taking trade from those who need to make a living from it. He gave us a very interesting tour of the village and introduced us to other potters who each have their own distinctive style of work. Included in these was a woman who had learnt her craft from Roland and Katrin. Other highlights were strawberry picking with Lea’s youngest brother Till (who speaks no English but is so sweet and makes a good job of opening wine bottles and brewing coffee), visiting the market in Henrichemont
Helping with the cooking
Yum.. It was all delicious. where Lea went to school (it was going to be the capital city of France until that king was assassinated so the plans got shelved - however they still have the lovely big market square). We spent some time in Bourges and, oh, what an incredible cathedral, both inside and out. The food was, not surprisingly, what we would have considered to be typically French - white asparagus with bread and butter, fish with Hollandaise sauce, lovely cakes and flans - and of course lots of cheese, wine and coffee.
Following our stay here Lea drove us 5 hours to Valance where she is attending university. Here we met up with her boyfriend and flatmates who kindly gave us their beds for a few days. One day we did a trip inland to Aubenas to visit a friend who is converting an old sheep pen into a home. He is a stonemason by trade and has worked on restoration projects in Avignon so is well qualified. An interesting insight into life in a village many years ago. Very nice lunch too cooked on a BBQ in the stairwell. Near Valance is the 13th century Chateau du Crussol, now in
Riding the wild horses
Well, not exactly wild - but it looked a lot of fun. ruins but with a fabulous view across the local farms and the town. A bit of a hot climb to the top but worth the effort.
Another day, temperature 36 degrees, was spent in Avignon, a city famous for its bridge and the building called the City of Popes. This was where earlier popes lived at a time when civil war in Italy threatened the safely of the Vatican. Another enormous building, very well preserved. Ian enjoyed his lemon ice cream and Lea and Wendy had a ride on an antique merry-go-round. Once again we were fed very well and the boys cooked excellent crepes.
Last day with Lea was spent in Lyon where a friend kindly allowed us to leave our packs in his flat while we walked around until going to the airport for our flight home. The trains were on strike but luckily buses were put on so our travel plans weren’t affected. Lyon is an interesting city with a basilica high on a hill. But guess who had to climb the 400 steps to get there as the funicular railway was also closed? Also it rained most of the day and silly us had
Lots of stairs - in the rain
Stairs and rain will be our memories of Lyon - and the wonderful views from the top. left our umbrellas in the flat. Oh dear - never mind. The climb was well worth the scenery inside the church and the view over the city.
Late afternoon it was time to say goodbye to Lea and head home on yet another Easyjet flight. Our next trip was to Wales so I shall endeavour to write that one soon.
Wendy
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