St Malo to Nice

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Monday 23rd September 42 miles

It was misty when we woke up but by the time we had had breakfast it was beginning to clear. It was a little nippy though, very autumnal. We went straight to the little supermarket near to the hotel but was very surprised to find it closed. The sign gave the hours of opening as starting at eight o'clock everyday except Sunday. I knew that there must be a Boulangerie as I had seen people with baguettes so we found that instead. We bought a baguette for Paul and two croissants filled with rochefort cheese to eat instead of yoghurt and nuts as there had been no 'yoghurts to go' at the hotel and nowhere to buy any. (I had the 'special bread' left over from breakfast. The owner had been insistent that I took it with me).

It was uphill from the start through forests of trees lining the river sides and great outcrops of rock towering above us. Every now and then we would pass an isolated house or farm or see buildings much higher up the hill side.

We ate the rochefort croissants in a tiny hamlet sat on a wall, enjoying the sun which was beginning to break through. After this the gradient was much more gentle, always uphill but very gradually. This gradient lasted all the way to Mende. Often the road appeared to be going downhill but was actually going uphill. That is a very funny feeling.

Lunch was sat in another bus stop as it was the only bench we could find but it was well off the road so quite pleasant. We used the 'emergency ' tin of tuna. (We always carry a tin of tuna with us just in case we can't buy bread or sandwiches). Paul had a phone call from the hospital which was a follow up to his dad's surgery checking that he was ok.

Part of the route was on the 'Route De Gevaudan' which passes through the area terrorised by a huge beast, probably a wolf, that was responsible for over one hundred deaths in the 1770s.

We arrived in Mende mid afternoon and soon found the hotel which was very central. Again the receptionist didn't speak any English but we got by. We had to have a bath as there was a shower over the bath but no shower screen. Also the bath was the shortest bath I have ever seen. You couldn't straighten your legs out.

Early evening we had a walk round the city centre, then a couple of soft drinks at a cafe bar and then a meal. The restaurant was very nice and in the vaults of a former convent.

Mende is dominated by its cathedral of Notre Dame. It is a small city and by far the largest place we have stayed on this trip. It is 700m above sea level and is in a remote mountainous area. Many of its houses have unusual shaped roofs which are shaped like upturned boats.

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