Nudging slowly northwards

---

Geo: 46.9194, 1.037

Our last few days at Cucuron in company of Eric and Anne were as enjoyable as ever. We went for a quiche-based light lunch in a little cafe cum tea room (La Calade) off the main busy street of Lourmarin on Thursday. The simple yet tasty food is prepared and served in a tiny courtyard by a couple of ladies, whilst in the shop you can purchase tea, coffee, pottery and the like. When on the campsite, there was much laughter, sharing of food and drink (they had Belgian chocolate too).

On Sunday, we left La Moulin a Vent with happy memories to continue our leisurely journey northwards. Next stop, the spa town of Saint Galmier, home of Badoit mineral water, west of the huge conurbation of Lyon, to Camping Val de Coise. Being a Sunday, the motorway was virtually devoid of large commercial vehicles (except for those with exemption such as perishable cargo or for special events) so that made a difference to the journey.

Although we had intended to stay four nights, it soon became apparent that it was not the site for us - it felt impersonal after some of the friendly, relaxed ones we had used this year. It is part of a chain of campsites, and being 4* category it has many facilities, such as kids club and swimming pool, but I draw the line at paying 3€ a day for wifi when I can't even get a signal at the pitch. The receptionist said I should be able to get it near the 'sanitaire'! No thanks. Pitches were a bit too close for comfort also, with some scruffy permanently sited tourers further along our row nose to tail, but on a positive note we had an idyllic outlook from our grassy terrace of a babbling brook, wooded hillside and a cornfield.

With no internet connection, the Caravan Club handbook of French sites threw up a possibility to take us a little nearer to the site in the Loire which I had reserved a few weeks ago. Camping Le Bonhomme at Neret, although a Dutch-owned site, was just an English-speaking 'phone call away and we were soon assured that they had plenty of space for us. We were not sure whether this was a good thing or not, but we needn't have worried since we were given a warm welcome from Franck despite arriving during their 2-hour lunch break. He then checked us in, showed us the facilities, before we set about pitching in amongst the cherry and walnut trees on the gently sloping grassy field with views across farmland.

With a history of running campsites in the Netherlands, Franck and Wil(hemina) moved to France 17 years ago and have created a little paradise with a number of touches to make their guests' stay more memorable. For instance, at 5pm Wil rings a bell to herald the start of happy hour when guests are welcome to join her (take your own chair) outside their charming cottage for a glass of wine, beer or whatever (1€ a time) for a bit of social time and a chance to chat with fellow campers.

Come nightfall, Wil has tea light lanterns amongst the trees and on garden tables to add a whimsical, fairy glow. Each morning, your bread order is delivered to your pitch by Franck, while Wil came round to invite us to take a walk from the campsite around the nearby countryside conducted by herself. I accepted and enjoyed the 2-hour hike, but David declined (bike withdrawal symptoms maybe).

The evening before we left we, along with two other couples, had a four-course meal, with wine, with them around their kitchen table. Simple, regional food but a nice end to our stay.

Next morning it was on the road once again but at 70 miles, a short transfer to Camping Le Cormier at Obterre, southern Loire. The 12-pitch site is owned and run by British couple, Mike and Cath Smith, and is a delightful and peaceful retreat for our last long-term stay in France before we take the ferry back to the UK. You could argue that to stay on a site where the other campers are also Brits defeats the object of coming to France, but it is rather novel especially now it is nearing the conclusion of the tour to exchange experiences which may influence future holidays.

Yesterday (Friday) we had a rest day, never having to leave the site since a mobile shop called and we bought our daily baguette, but we intend to venture out over the coming week for our final French fling, so to speak.

---

Photos

At La Calade, Lourmarin
With Eric and Anne for lunch