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Peter said it was my turn to go to the bakery yesterday. He thinks I need the practice - he is bolder but I have more words! On the way there I met Madame from Switzerland whom we met yesterday. She comes down twice a year to stay in St Remy and lives in the house over the secret entrance, so we met at the gate as we came in. She and her husband were reading in their garden when I went past and he was enchante to meet me. So now we have three friends within a few metres of our place!
After our change of plan and the bizarre sheep event on Monday, we decided to give the Roman ruins another try. Glanum is less than 2 km south of the town, right at the foot of the pass that emerges from the Alpilles mountains. Looking at information and reviews the other night, it struck us that people's responses to these places depend greatly on their own interests and world views. Some reviews said 'nothing much to see here - just a pile of broken stones', while others said it is a magnificent insight into life thousands of
years ago. We side with the latter - I just love walking around houses and buildings that people lived in so long ago, seeing the incredible craftsmanship, imagining it bustling with life, looking at the creature comforts that were constructed centuries ago, like baths, heating, running water, decorated homes and markets. It was tres magnifique and we spent hours there.
The town dates from the third century BC and has been through many phases, demolitions and rebuilding. The information boards and graphics are really interesting with some English to help us. It was built around a sacred spring, and the complex water works are impressive. The site is right next to the St Paul asylum where Van Gogh was for a year, but he would not have seen it because it was not uncovered until the 1920s. Named after the Gallic god Glan, it is situated in a pretty valley under the shadow of the craggy Alpilles and had ramparts that were 13m thick to keep out mauraders. There were only a few people there today and there is such easy access, with shady trees and well placed benches for our picnic stops, and enough breeze to make for
a very pleasant wander. I was living a bit dangerously as it is very uneven and involved a lot of clambering and stone steps and rocks, so my main goal was to stay upright and not misstep or injure myself. Delicious sorbets at the little cafe completed the day, apart from a quick look at the two massive monuments over the road - a mausoleum and an triumphal arch.
It struck me that we enjoy some of the same comforts of life as the Romans - bathing, shopping, promenading, worship - just a couple of thousand years later and with a whole lot of digital technology thrown in!
We are developing a nice little routine when the thunderstorms hit in the afternoon - a snooze, downloading photos, then Peter paints while I write. He is doing some small portraits of French faces from surreptitious zoom photos taken in the market! Suitably refreshed and re-enthused, we are then ready for another outing in the long pleasant evening sun and maybe some dinner out, or we cook something simple at home. If we want to relax we can watch Netflix or SBS On Demand on the iPad or guess the
plot of a French movie on the enormous TV. I found a French crossword game show which had my brain doing mental gymnastics, and we have seen some of the Italian Giro bike race, which is the lead up to the Tour de France.
This morning, Peter broke out the shorts and did the Van Gogh trail, walking 6 kilometres to see the marked sites of well known paintings. There are metal discs in the pavement inscribed with just ‘Vincent’ to mark the way. Daunted by the distance of that activity, I took myself to the market in the square and restocked us with the juiciest apricots I have ever tasted, cherries, strawberries, green veggies, avocados (managed to pick up that she was asking if I wanted them pret manger, meaning ready to eat), another present and a stop by the bakery as well. Not a word of English was spoken! Not sure if all my French words were understood though.
There was a knock on the glass door just then and our mate Sami appeared with a plate in his hand. Madame Gabi had sent him across the lane with a freshly baked piece of chocolate cake
for us. I have just tried a mouthful and it is extremely alcoholic! This delightful neighbourliness just doesn’t happen in hotel stays and we are savouring the human contact and simplicity of genuine kindness.
Meanwhile we are really missing our family, but enjoying FaceTime and WhatsApp communication when we can and appreciate the better wi-fi here. We feel slightly guilty when we hear how cold and wet it is in Melbourne, but there will be plenty more winter for us when we get home! In this post I have tried to describe some of our everyday life here, which for us is an important part of our travel. We have both enjoyed reading Mary Moody's books about her escape to southern France; Peter went to school with Mary and I loved her as a presenter on Gardening Australia, so we connect with her writing. Given what happened to her during her time here, however, I think Peter is glad that we have come together- she had a steamy affair!
This place is on a corner and has glass doors facing both ways, so everyone who walks or drives past can look in. I am sure that they find
us interesting! From our little terrace I see the olive trees next door, feel the late evening sun and hear the pigeons cooing, and the pace feels just right. The thunderstorm has cleared, the sun is out again; another Provençal long spring evening lies ahead and my wonderful husband is cooking dinner. Tonight we will have fresh green beans!
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Shelly Williamson
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Recommended Restaurants
Hello, Just fell upon your post as my husband and I are heading to St. Remy today. I always love to eat upon a recommendation from a local. Please send any special resataurants or eateries. Merci! Shelly