France 131 - St Denis d'Oleron/a black and white phare/hundreds of white butterflies/between the Charente and the Atlantic

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We are standing on the edge of the land between the Charente and the Atlantic in front of a black and white phare de Chassiron. What brought us here to the largest island off mainland France with the exception of Corsica ? A pin in a map. We woke early in St Jean D'Angeley and decided to head further south and cross the viaduct over to the Ile d'Oleron. We might not see a Cathar castle, nor a puy, nor the petite yellow train but what we would see was a massive viaduct crossing the Charente over to the island. What an impressive thing it is. It was Sunday morning and it felt as if all of France was heading over to the island and it would sink under their weight. We had been to the Ile de Rey a few years ago and were keen to see just how the two islands compare.

The sun beat down at us and I headed off to the camp reception to pick up our baguettes and croissants. Breakfast was a slow affair which we are getting into the habit of enjoying. We love the table in Gabby where we can sit and enjoy that leisurely coffee and French delicacies.

Leaving the campsite it would take Gabby two hours to reach the viaduct. The scenery changed dramatically. It felt as if we were in a different land . A land of pale blue fields of flax, vines , forests and swamps. Storks nesting in the high electricity cables reminded us of the deep south of France. Egrets fished in the waterways. Salt beds lined the roads together with oyster beds. Stalls set up at the roadside selling those oysters - the fruit des mares. Pretty French cottages in stylish French villages. Shutters in every colour from cornflower blue to pale green, from lilac to dark blue. Rond points decorated with boats, castles and offshore forts. You have to remember we are close to that icon of the past that those of a certain age will remember Fort Boyard. The island is home to 19 thousand who clearly love and cherish their island. So with the sun smiling on us we headed north and arrived at the furthest point of the island where the next landfall is America. Conveniently there was a rough area of ground suitable for camping cars. Sadly we could not overnight but it made a good spot for a short stop. After parking we walked up to the cheerful black and white cheerful phare on the headland where the next landfall is America. Think Anglesey a wild island with cliffs falling down to the sea. Think Lands End all commercialised with tat shops, bistros, a closed karting track and you get an idea of what St Denis is actually like.

On such a lovely day it was a pleasure to walk up to the cheery black and white striped lighthouse. We didn't get the chance to go into the museum. It held pictures and artifacts about the lighthouse and a climb to the top where there were 360 degree views. We would have loved to have climbed the steps but as always the lighthouse was closed for lunch. In typical French style lunch was 12 .30 until 2pm so we had to make do with a walk around the building and onto the cliffs before we walked back down through the gardens which surrounded the phare. The sea was rough below us . How we wished we would have been able to stay the night to find the place quiet once the visitors had all left for the day. An aire wouldn't have been out of place where we could watched the sun set and it rise again in the morning. There is something wonderful about seeing the sun set over the sea in the west.

Walking back to Gabby we set about the task of trying out a different gelato. I am working slowly through every flavour on sale. Glenn chose his usual vanilla and I chose salted caramel. Not my favourite but still worth trying it out. Only another 50 or so flavours to work through. Eating the ice cream we found our way across the headland to the fields of oilseed rape. The yellow flowers moved in the sunlight and the slight wind. Above the flowers were hundreds of white butterflies. Flying from flower to flower it was the most incredible sight. Tiny white wings fluttering in the summer sun. A memory that will remain long in our minds.

We had such a lovely day - a cheerful lighthouse, hundreds of pretty butterflies and the wild Atlantic below us. A thought to take away with you " This world is only one drop in an infinite ocean, one link in an infinite chain" Swami Vivekananda - We were standing close to an infinite ocean which stretched between here and the USA.

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