Mirepoix and Montsegur 29th October 2007

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Another great day. Started off in Mirepoix market, where we spent much of our time being greeted by our new ‘friends‘ from the walk yesterday. That felt good, knowing a few locals and being able to stop and have a chat. Best was going back to the stall of the woman who sells the mushrooms she herself gathers and getting cooking tips for varieties we know nothing about. Isn’t ‘lactaire delicieux’ a lovely name? Looking forward to experimenting!

This afternoon was Montsegur, a most wonderful and extraordinary mountain, which can be distinguished from miles away because of its extraordinarily smooth shape. The Autumn colours we’d so much enjoyed at the Gorges de la Frau are even more developed now, and so even though we’ve done the climb many times before, it’s a new experience every time the seasons change.

The views are wonderful, the climb a challenge, but the weight of its history is what makes Montsegur such a special place. Briefly, a group of Cathars was besieged at its summit for 10 months in 1244, through one of the hardest winters in years, and when they finally were forced to surrender, were burned to death. The contrast between being simply able to relish the climb and the views, and the isolated, terrifying and deprived existence the group of Cathars must have led in the same place always makes my enjoyment in being there especially poignant.

Still, as we came down, the weather ceased to be gorgeous for us too, and now it’s throwing it down. Shame really, as tomorrow we were due to make a start on digging a vegetable patch over on the potager. A local man, Michele, who has a lifetime of gardening skills, is due to help. I think actually, we’ll be skivvying for him. He’ll definitely be in charge…if we can get started at all!

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Photos

Montsegur
One of the first sightings of Montsegur, from Fougax

View from Montsegur
This is what you see as you begin climbing

Nearly back down...
...ands walking towards the village of Montsegur, still far below