Cathar castles and painting


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Europe » France » Languedoc-Roussillon » Perpignan
November 23rd 2008
Published: November 23rd 2008
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the girls at Peyrepertusethe girls at Peyrepertusethe girls at Peyrepertuse

Fiona, Charlotte and Me
Just as you start to become disenchanted with this place, it has a way of making you fall in love with it all over again.

I was desperate to throw myself into things, partly to take my mind off leaving Britain behind and partly to make the most of my time here. We'd been told that there was a fair in town, and following Adam's vague directions: "You head towards the castillet and then carry on out of town" we finally reached it after wandering for a while and negotiating a dual carriageway. Charlotte and I, feeling up for an adrenaline boost, didn't hesitate to jump on a ride which seemed to be some sort of huge crane-like thing, with seats on either end. Now, I am not usually one to get stupidly scared on fairground rides; I've been on ones which spin you round and upside down in the air plenty of times before, and while I may scream in that giddy way required by such rides, I have never had any real fear. There's a first time for everything. As we went slowly up and then sat miles above the ground, I said to Charlotte: "You know, I'm not so sure about this." The bars keeping us in felt less than secure. Finally we moved again, and then the hell started. We were whirled around at the end of this crane-like arm at ever increasing speeds, first forwards and then backwards, being thrust towards the front of our seats and absolutely convinced that we were going to fall out. We spent the entire ride screaming in pure terror, interspersed with shouts of "Ohmygodohmygodohmygod" and we both actually entertained the thought that this could be our last moment on earth. After what seemed like forever the ride slowed and we climbed off, somewhat dazed, amazed that we were still alive. Luckily the rest of the fair passed in a much calmer way with dodgems and candyfloss and a weird 3D "experience" where things painted in day-glo paint wobbled vaguely.

We also met up with a French guy who Charlotte had met a few days earlier, and he offered to take us into the corbieres mountains the next day. I was eager to see the area, as I hoped I might catch a glimpse of some cathar castles. Well, Nicolas went one better than that and actually took us to the castle of Peyreperteuse, after we had driven past its neighbour Qeribus. We wound our way up the mountain-side (a somewhat hair-raising experience; the French like driving fast around sharp bends and seem to have a contempt for installing crash-barriers), and then completed the final section on foot, scaling a ridiculous amount of rock-hewn steps. But it was truly worth it. The views were spectacular, and Fiona and I, being medieval geeks, were absolutely in our element. Although the castle has of course suffered over the centuries, there is still enough of it to imagine what it would have been like, and standing at the chapel, the highest point, it was almost as if the modern world no longer existed, as we looked over the castle below, the nearby village and the mountains all around. It was incredible.

Later on, Nicolas invited us to his for dinner, and we spent a great evening eating delicious food and playing cards. It was a brilliant day, and just like that, I was in love with the region once more.

I also spent a very contented day on Wednesday; having caught up with most of my work on Monday and
the result of my painting funthe result of my painting funthe result of my painting fun

a watercolour of Collioure
Tuesday, I was finally able to get out the watercolour paints and paper I'd bought a few weeks ago, and after getting some photos printed, I whiled away several happy hours mixing colours and daubing paint.

The other activity keeping me happy this week is shopping - Christmas shopping online (the way forward, even if not abroad - it's so easy and pain-free!), an LBD I found in H&M which initially I didn't get because it's not exactly necessary, but on impulse on Wednesday, I went back and got it, because it is just gorgeous. And sometimes a girl's gotta do what a girl's gotta do.

It's been basically a great week. I just do lectures on autopilot now, and they are definitely not the main part of my life here. It's everything outisde of uni that I enjoy and will remember.



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