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Today was Jack’s birthday, which is especially important since the whole adventure began with an email last summer inviting the kids to celebrate his birthday with us…in Paris. Since we were all pretty jet-lagged the day started slowly, really slowly. Jack was up about 8 to make coffee when I can straggling down about 9. Madeline may her way down about 9:30 while the 2 Js and the remaining M were fast asleep. We had some coffee and went out to the market for staples, yogurt, detergent and jam and when we got back everyone was still asleep. While they roused themselves, Madeline and I headed over to Petit Bateaux looking for baby tights. The walk took us through blocks of the fashionable boutiques for which the Marais is known. Petit Bateaux was full of adorable baby clothes. Everything was pretty much split between boy clothes in blue and girl clothes in pink – gender neutral was not present. The majority of their clothes were amazingly over-priced. Spending $100 for a toddler raincoat is not possible for someone with my genetic make-up. By the time we got back having purchased a couple of onesies, the rest of the group was ready
to go.
The day was glorious, warm and sunny, so we decided to walk to Ile Cite to visit the Deportation Museum, Notre Dame and Saint Chappelle. One the way, Josh requested we stop at what was supposedly the best coffee shop in Paris. The cappuccino was very good, but I’m not a sufficient coffee consessiour to make some of the finer distinctions, and appreciate if it really is the best in Paris. Josh acknowledged there is better coffee in Brooklyn. The Deportation Museum was closed, but on the sign outside I learned that nearly as many non-Jewish French were deported as French Jews. Josh and Madeline decided to go into Notre Dame, while the rest of us opted for St Chappelle. The windows in St Chappelle were every bit as beautiful as I remembered. They are in the middle of a 6 year renovation project in which they are taking apart every window, cleaning and repairing the glass and put the windows back together - $15,000,000 half of which is being funded by Velux (only fitting). We headed off for the Tuileries to take advantage of the good weather. We were overcome with hunger in the
middle of the pet and plant store district and bit the bullet to stop at a small bar that we thought would be pretty bad going in. Much to our surprise it was worse – microwaved pre-made Crocque Monsieurs and what looked and evidently tasted like Chef Boy Ardee ravioli. You win some & you lose some. Jack and Madeline left to go back to the apartemtn to work and nap and the rest of us headed to the gardens. Half way through, the 2 Js and the M decided to take the subway back and I headed on alone. I read there was a cool exhibilt at the Grand Palais and I hadn’t had my fill of sightseeing. The Daniel Buren exhibit was extraordinarily wonderful. Rather than try to describe it, I’ve posted some pictures. It was a lot of fun taking pictures and watching people take pictures of themselves and their friends in the large mirrors on the floor. On my way back to get the subway, I passed the entrance to a Helmut Newton photography exhibit and since there was not line, I figured why not. I hadn’t recognized the name, but he was an astounding fashion
photographer and the show was a mix of fashion, nudes, photographs of celebrities and politicians and wacky photographs of mannequins.
Dinner was at a tiny restaurant, Le Penatuche, that Josh and Madeline picked. It was a fantastic evening – great food and wine and better company. We spent nearly 3 hours at dinner without a break in the conversation and everyone left full and happy. It’s 11:30 and much as I hate to see the day end…
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Millie
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Bon anniversaire, Jacques!
Enjoy!