What goes up eventually comes down

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Today, again, is more of a wander. The weather just keeps getting better. By better I mean, sweater weather without sweating and without needing anything heavier. Perfect! We are heading toward Sacre Cœur but where Michael leads us is anyone's guess!

We start just down the street from our hotel (I swear I'm going to talk about it at some point) at Saint Germain des Prés. That means Saint Germain of the fields. This is the oldest church in Paris.

As we walk in, again, I'm am struck by the sheer beauty of the way the light comes in through the stained glass. I get emotional and have to let the group go on ahead. I cry as the feelings become overwhelming. I can't describe it. The gloriousness (I'm just fine making that up if it isn't a word) of these churches is without description. We don't make stuff like this anymore. It seems to me that part of having faith is the belief that beauty like this isn't solely man made. God said, "Let there be light". That's what makes these places beautiful.

We begin Montmartre journey where some people's have ended ~ the cemetary. It reminded me a little bit of New Orleans. The crypts are very close together. There is very little walking space and almost no grass of any sort. Most of the crypts are tall and narrow, maybe 3 feet across. They are family crypts. When a family has no more members or fails to take care of a crypt, it is removed and another one takes its place.

There are quite a few notable people buried in the cemetary, the woman credited with inventing the can can, Edgar Degas, Maria Taglioni, the ballerina that first went en pointe, Vaslav Nijinsky, Hector Berlioz and Alexander Dumas! The crypts of these peopleare often taken care of by fans. Some dancer had left their pointe shoes on the grave of Taglioni.

We leave the cemetary by a little side street and somehow, bang! There's the Moulin Rouge! I don't know how Michael does it but each day flows together seemlessly. One highlight after another and all you do is keeping walking and listening!

Again, watch your belongings! The area is crowded with tourists and buses! Ugh! Can't we be the ONLY tourists in Paris?! Michael is spoiling me. No thinking, no decision making, no worries except don't let anyone take your stuff! Vermin! I'm not sure who they are but I've got my purse turned inward so no one can access zippers and one hand on my knife!

Ok, no knife! I was just seeing if you were really paying attention! Of course you were! Anywho, on to lunch (It's that time already) and we are eating in the cute little cafe that appears in the film, Amalie. Haven't seen or heard of it? That's ok. Google or Imdb it!

The adorable Les Deux Moulins (the two mills hence the windmill at the Moulin Rouge) is an adorable little café with nice enough waiters. Quite honestly, with the exception of one very rude Frenchman, we have been treated exceptionally well. The waiters are very patient...Ha! Ok, no they aren't but they are not the awful French you've been warned about. Some are nicer than others. Some can speak English and some cannot. C'est le vie!

I noticed on the way in that a guy on the patio had a beautiful meat and cheese board. Bingo! It looked delicious! So by the time I pointed it out, voíla! Cheese boards for everybody! Well, french onion soup for some and seafood chowder for others but the cheeseboard was fantastic! The more others order, the more you know what to look out for on a menu. It was a fantastic, relaxing lunch.

As lunch was finishing up, some people went to look in shops as others relaxed with coffee. You know I'd rather chat than shop. It's how I learn things. Anyway, before too long we were all out poking in and out of the shops. Of course, we all end up outside a food shop. Everyone is looking for gifts to take home to people and Mom and I are face deep in bread and pastries. Sorry, guys! My suitcase is gonna be too heavy when I pack my wine. Drinks, anyone?

Continuing our wander uphill, we pass numerous shops. Michael leads at a good pace. There are only a couple of times where you actually realize you are climbing up. Montmartre is built on hills (old quarries) and Sacre Cœur is located on the top. So as we pass certain landmarks, have certain views or points of interest, Michael gives us the relevant information.

We hear about Dalida, see where she lives and pass by her statue. (Google again) He shows us the wall where "I love you" is written in every language. Pretty cool. I get to see one of the Art Deco metro stops that are still intact. The statue of Saint Denis holding is own head. Au Lapin Agile cabaret, which dates back to the mid 1800s and hosts all the colorful characters of the Montmartre neighborhood, which includes artists, anarchists, students and eccentrics. A lovely mix!

Just when you think you could be nearing the top of the hill, Michael turns a corner and, holy cow, there she is. Sacre Cœur, is right in front of you. Well, the back side is, but it doesn't make it any less majestic. There are very few people on this side of the church and for a while, it is just nice to absorb it in semi solitude.

Michael explains that, historically speaking, it is a newer church and it is decorated with mosaic tile. We must be quiet as the church sanctuary is continually used for worship. As we head around the front, the enormous mass of people grows. Oh, it was so nice to have that time to see it for ourselves.

The view from the front out onto Paris is gorgeous. As I said, it is built on a hill so unless you are on top of the Arc d'Triomphe or the Eiffel Tower. It's hard to find a better view in Paris

Inside, the mosaic tile work is stunning. Everything that has been painted in other churches, it tiled here. The craftsmanship is mind boggling as we make our way around the sanctuary. I ruin two selfies as I can't stand the lack of respect people have in a church. It makes me feel better and I ask for forgiveness. He understands.

Once outside, we head to Place du Tertre to grab a coffee or wander the little square. Here, artists of all kinds are set up to sell their work. Mom and I go look while everyone else grabs a drink. When we complete the square, everyone is stilling enjoying the atmosphere so we head off to get a crepe and ice cream.

As we finish up, everyone else is still at the tables and we walk over to the small church, Saint Pierre-Montmartre. Inside the organist is playing. I haven't talked about any of the amazing organs in the churches because we haven't heard any! Well, the organist must have been practicing for Sunday so Mom and I sat and enjoyed a free concert in the nearly deserted church.

We met everyone outside to head back down the hill and after realizing the buses weren't playing nice with our schedule, we got to take the funicular back down the hill! A short but steep trip, how fun!

When we got back to the hotel, Mom and I had decided that this was our night to get to the Eiffel Tower. It's a simple bus ride. We pick up the bus at the end of our street, ride it to the end of the line, see the tower and ride back! *more foreshadowing*

It was just getting dark as we hopped on the bus and was fully dark by the time we got off at the Champs du Mars. There, through the park, was the Tower all lit up. We made our way in through security and hopped in a ticket line. We made small talk with to friends that traveled together every other year. They had been friends since kindergarten.

We bought our tickets and headed to the elevators at the foot of the tower. I closed my eyes. I'm afraid of heights but Paris is Paris. I'm never going to miss out on something like this. We got out on the 2nd floor and made our way around the tower to see the different sides. Paris, at night, is even prettier at night. Just perfection. We picked out familiar sights, took some pictures and headed to the next elevator to the top.

We got on the elevator I hit the video record button on my phone and I closed my eyes. I'd watch later. It was scary enough for me to imagine and Mom kept saying, "Oh, my gosh! Oh, my goodness! We just keep going up!" It made me a little queasy!

We got to the top and I immediately climbed the steps to the next floor up. Tippy top! I know it sounds crazy but if I'm doing this I'm all in. All or nothing. Tippy top or bust! There it is. Paris all laid out. Even prettier than down below. But it is windy!! We take our selfie and other pics of the view and get in line to go down. I close my eyes. I'm not sure which would be worse. Watching up or watching down. I don't take chances. I'm not watching at all!

We walk back toward our bus stop but turn back to see the lights twinkle at 9pm. Just mesmerizing! What a sight! What a great time to spend with my Mom.

As we cross the park to the bus stop, RATS!! Big, damn rats!! At least a half dozen! Ugh! We high tail it out of there!

We get to the bus stop. Oh, look at that, our bus service has been terminated. No more bus 87 tonight! Well, poop! What to do?!

Ranger Rita, my alter ego, springs into action after a moment of panic. Life certainly is different than it used to be but here I am, no phone (no data anyway), no bus book (I didn't think I'd need one. It was the same bus back and forth), a language barrier and it's nightime at a tourist spot. *Please watch your belongings. There are bad people about!* The cute policemen are never around when you need them!

I mentally smacked myself, checked the other bus maps at the nearby stops and found a bus that would get us back to a familiar location. Once on the Place de la Concorde, we walked a short distance to a bus stop we had used many times during the week and got a bus back to our regular neighborhood!

Getting scared numerous times in an evening must make me hungry. We stopped for a ham and cheese galette at a street booth and walked back to the hotel as we ate. Crisis averted and another night of great memories!

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