MIDEVIL CHATEAU TO THE TOWER WAR

---

Chateau Vincennes

Now that we are in Paris, the days will be slower and not as many activities in one day. The benefit of repeating a city as often as we have Paris, it becomes a much more relaxing pace with subsequent trips, since you have already done the major sightseeing. Now it is more about doing that obscure chateau or site that is not on the top 10 or even 20 list. It is also a chance to visit your favorite restaurant, discover a few new ones and just enjoy the city of the city it is as if you lived there and not as a tourist.

We slept in a bit as we only had one thing we wanted to do today, until we met up with Christina and Jourdan later in the afternoon. While Jerry was getting ready, I was off to the BNP to get some euros (this is a sister bank of BofA so I can use the ATM free of fees.) It was a cloudy morning and a bit brisk, but I was walking the streets of Paris, and couldn’t have been happier. On my way back to the hotel I stopped a boulangerie just down the street from the hotel and bought two croissants, I even did it in French and spoke no English. When I got back to the room Jerry was almost ready, while he finished I had my first bite of the croissant, OMG the best thing ever, I don’t know what they do in New York or anywhere in the U.S. but nothing compares to a croissant in Paris.

I got a text from the girls that they had checked in and were off to the hop on hop off tour. In the meantime, Jerry and I were off to Chateau Vincennes, the medieval home of French Kings. Charles V, finished the castle and is most connected to the Chateau. It is truly medieval, not Versailles comforts here, they did have indoor bathrooms, if you call a cement room a bathroom, but it was inside. The fireplace in the Kings bedroom I could stand in, just tells you how cold it must have been, if they needed a fireplace that big. The chateau is on the outer edge of Paris, at the end of the number 1 metro stop, it took about 30 minutes to get there. It is of course on the Paris Card and it gets you in to the keep and the church. The church is currently undergoing renovation so there was not much to see there.

After its time as a castle it became a prison for the likes of the Marquis da Sade and many other political enemies of the Kings and Queens, including Catherine de Medici (kind of an ally to Mary Queen of Scots at one time.) Why do I mention this, because family rumor has it they the Wright side of the Family is decedent from Mary Queen of Scots (the Stewards) and if thousands of people die I could be King of England.

It was about 2:30 when we finished our tour, it was windy and cold and we thought about buying some jackets, since we did not bring any coats except for dinner. However, by the time we got back to the hotel bought a quick snack (mini quiche and baguette with ham, cheese and tomato) we didn’t really have any time to go shopping as we were supposed to meet the girls at the Eifel Tower.

The 21 year Eifel Tower War comes to an end.

I was determined that on this my six trip to Paris over the last 21 years, that I would make it to the top of the Eifel Tower. Every time before the tower has won, it was either too late, the weather was too bad, or the elevator was under repairs. This time I was going to climb up to the top if I had to. When we left to meet the girls at the tower, the weather did not look good and thunder storms had been predicted. The elevators were going to the top, so all hope was not lost.

It was raining as we walked to the tower, when we got there the girls were already there, they were cold and tired, they just landed this morning and had been pretty much on the go ever since. I had purchased tickets to the top in advance so we could avoid the lines. Because of the weather there wasn’t really anybody there, so there were not that many lines anyway, but it was still cheaper to buy in advance.

We had a 5 pm entry time, after dealing with some tourists that just couldn’t ready the rules, like no knives, the guy ahead of me had a Swiss army knife and couldn’t understand why he couldn’t take it or they wouldn’t hold it for him. So we got to the first elevator and ascended to the second state, and then directly to the elevator to the top, yes after 6 tries and 21 years, I was finally going to make it to the top and I didn’t care how much it rained or how wet I got, I was finally making it to the freaking top of the Eifel Tower. Even with the clouds the view was spectacular, we just missed the champagne bar as it closed about 10 minutes before we made it to the top, but nonetheless, I made it to the top and the Eifel Tower and I can now sign a peace agreement.

Dinner

Christina and Jourdan are really tired, and understandably so, they wanted to eat early and go to bed, but our schedules for eating were not on an early time frame. We suggested they might want to eat where we ate last night and we would just eat at our normal time. But Christina really; wanted to eat at the place Jerry had picked out (more a bit later, after we have actually eaten their) so they decided to go back to the room and rest and clean up a bit we will head to dinner at 8. Jerry did take them to the place where I bought the croissants so they could get a little something to hold them over.

The weather may not be great, but its Paris, I never care what the weather does here. I love Paris regardless.

Café Constant

By the time it was ready for dinner the rain had stopped and the sun was actually shinning. We had a nice walk to the restaurant. This place is one of three in the Eifel Tower area that is owned by Christian Constant. They are in fact all on the same street. This was Christina’s first meal in Paris so we really wanted it to be good and we were not disappointed. It was packed when we got there, but with Jourdan’s French and that we were a party of 4 we had less than a five-minute wait. We were seated upstairs, the only negative comment I have of this place is that it is very warm in side, it is small and compact upstairs, added with the heat from the kitchen, it can heat up. If they open the windows you do get a decent cross breeze which helps.

We started with champagne. It did take us awhile to decide the menu was full of excellent choices. We all ordered something different, until it came to dinner, this way we all got to taste a little of everything. I could blog about all of it, but I will keep it to just what Jerry and I had, but I am going to point out what I think was the highlight dish of the evening, and will keep this pattern through the rest of Paris.

Jerry started with Effeuille de Tourteau, which was a crab potato salad type of dish, crab was mixed in with a shredded potato type salad, sans mayo, it was very light and a good flavor, perhaps better with Dungeness Crab. I had Tarte Fine De Gambas, which was grilled shrimp between puff pastry with a nice basil sauce. We had a nice Burgundy with our main courses.

The mains were equally as creative; Jerry had Volaille (chicken with herb butter) simple but excellent flavor. I had Caille au Foie Gras, Quail stuffed with foie gras, and the sauce was divine. Desserts were equally as good, jerry had Quenelle de Chocloat, basically chocolate mousse in a cream anglaise. I had Profiteroles smothered in dark chocolate sauce.

It was a good dinner and I think a good first impression for Christina. She really liked here main which is tonight’s highlight dish. Gambas Croutillantes. King Prawns wrapped in basil, then tempura, served with a bright and lively citrus cream sauce.

During dinner not only did the rain return but the thunder made a brief clap as well.

Tomorrow is Jerry’s day at the Architecture museum, I will be going to the Orsay with the girls then have the afternoon to myself. Happy birthday AJ, hope you enjoyed Jerry’s text.

---

Photos

The Keep
Chateau Vincennes

Highlight dish of the night
Gambas Croutillantes