Jumping Time Zones

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As I write this entry, we are resting in our hotel just off Rue Cler in the 7^th. I will not mention the name of the hotel, because this is our favorite place to stay and do not want it to lose any of its charm. This is the 4^thtime we have stayed in this hotel and have our usual street side room with a view of the top of the Eifel Tower.

The first day is always the hardest and seems like the longest. You start in one time zone and end up in a different country on a different day, but your mind still says your in the time zone you live in. We try very hard to immediately adjust to the time difference, we typically plan a full day, but not intense, don’t take a nap and then go to bed at our normal time. The next day we are adjusted to the time difference and ready to go.

In my last entry we were sitting in the Polaris Lounge relaxing. Shortly after publishing that blog entry we left to go to our gate. The plane was scheduled to depart at 6;30 and so we would not have to wait long to board, or so we thought. When we got to the gate, our flight was not posted and then we discovered that the gate had been changed. Not too much of a big deal as the plane was yet scheduled to board. The only issue was the gate was on the exact opposite side of the terminal. Once we got to the new gate assignment, we were informed that it had been changed back to the original gate. We started heading back, but then decided to check the departure board just to make sure. Yes, you guessed it the gate had been changed for a third time, but at least we were only half way back to the first gate, and the new and final gate was not that far from where we now stood. After our United gate roulette, the plane was then delayed by 90 minutes due to gate unavailability. As we patiently waited, Jerry struck up a very long conversation with a pleasant retired couple behind us in line.

We finally boarded the plane and were soon on our way to Paris. While the seats were comfortable and the service adequate, it did not quite measure up to business class on Air Canada. The food and service were both better on the Air Canada flight. What was much better on the United flight was the ability to control your own air. This made my ability to get some sleep much easier.

Arrival in Paris

Finally, after gate switches and a 90-minute delay we finally arrived at Charles De Gaulle Airport only an hour later than our schedule time. When we first arrived at passport control, it appeared as we would be there for hours. However, it went much faster and we were in and out in about 45 minutes. Getting our luggage and taking the shuttle to the RER B line was painless. Even buying our ticket for the train went without hassle, in the past this has been an issue as the machines did not like my debit card, but now that all debit cards have the chip, even this was a breeze. It took about 45 minutes to get from the airport to our hotel. It was of course to early to check in so we dropped off out bags and head for St. Germain des Pres. I was fairly overheated from the lack of AC at passport control and the numerous stairs we hauled our suitcases up and down during our trip to the hotel. The good news, the weather was perfect, clear skies a slight breeze and about 65 degrees.

Lunch was at L Enfance de Lard, rough translation is something like the childhood of bacon. We had no bacon or lard. Jerry was a bit cold so he went with a roast chicken and potatoes. I choose a Niçoise Salad, both were very good and just what we needed. We each had a glass of wine with lunch and I ended with a stiff shot of coffee, trying to get some energy. The restaurant it self was small but good. Best part, we were the only tourists, the rest of the customers were all locals and most regulars at that.

After lunch we headed for Bon Marche. Now we are not shoppers, but we had not been to Paris’s biggest department store before so we decided we need to compare it to Harrods in London, Macys in New York, one Jerry went to in Berlin. Harrods by far is the most amazing of them all. The Bon Marche isn’t even really close to any of the others.

We didn’t find anything we had to have, sure I could have found these I want but don’t need, but as I said we are not shoppers.

That was all we had planned for our first day in Paris, so we headed back to the hotel to finish checking in and unpack. While Jerry unpacked, I went to the store next door and purchased some wine for wine thirty. The prices never cease to amazing me. A Bordeaux for 4 euros, a St. Emillion for 7 euros and a Burgundy for 10 euros. We shall see how they taste. So far, the 4-euro Bordeaux is fairly decent.

Its good to be back in Paris, the vibe is always so much more pleasant than New York, even on a rush hour metro, people are more pleasant than those on a New York subway at any time of day. In addition, the metro in Paris is so much more efficient and cleaner than New York, the MTA needs to take a trip to Paris to see how it is done.

All that is left for today is dinner at a little place just a couple blocks from our hotel. This is a repeat and is becoming our traditional first night dinner.

Dinner

Since we always stay in the same hotel while in Paris, we have decided to have our first night dinner in the same restaurant. It is a short 2 block walk from our hotel. Russell a friend of ours in Portland, OR, first recommended this place to us. It took us a few years to finally be able to try it out, but now we are hooked. It is very small and because of that I again hesitate to reveal the name. We have heard one to many stories of places that have been overwhelmed by business form yelp or other blogs. Not that my 56 followers are going to drive this place out of business, but why take the chance.

Before dinner, we walked to an ATM to withdraw some cash. I do not like to pay with a card when eating out, so we always have euros for our meals.

Dinner was once again exceptional. Form the greeting of the owner to the lase au revoir it was a perfect first dinner in Paris and of our vacation. We were seated a table in a great corner that had a view of the entire rest of the restaurant, it was also very private and away from any other tables. We of course started with our standard glass of champagne before studying the menu. I always like to ask for a French menu so I can practice my French, we also get one in English to make sure nothing gets lost in our bad translation.

We went with the 40-euro menu, an entrée, plat and dessert. There were a few supplements added as we order a few things that were slightly more expensive than the rest of the menu. Each course was outstanding. As is my custom, I will not what each of us had and what the stand out dish was.

First, we will start with what Jerry had. He started with Planche de Charcuterie. This was way too big for one, so I had to help out, it was a true burden. The dish consisted of three types of pate, duck, two parks, one of which was in a pastry. There were also three different meats chorizo, salami and prosciutto. Each of them was good, the best of the dish was the duck pate. His main course was En Face en Face. This was beef cooked two ways one, grilled in a rich wine sauce the other (beef cheeks) braised in a mustard wine sauce, it melted in your mouth. The side was an 8-layer dauphinois potates, one of the top three we have ever had. He ended with a Mille-feuille a la vanilie Bourbon. Three baked puff pastry triangles and in between each one a vanilla bourbon whipped cream.

I started with Ravioles de Homard. Melt in your mouth ravioli stuffed with lobster and in a rich shellfish sauce, it was like ravioli in lobster bisque. My entrée was Pleuestos et petit pois, filet de veau et sauce ou vin jaune. Translation, melt in your mouth boneless veal chops in a morel and white wine sauce. Dessert was a Palet au chocolat noir. A chocolate mouse tart with a dark chocolate cookie crust.

With dinner we had an excellent 2011 Gran Cru St. Emillion. It was reasonably priced and paired perfectly with our meal.

If you have not figured it out the dish of the day was clearly Face en Face.

Stuffed to the brim, we slowly walked back to the hotel. Where we are now enjoying a class of wine as I finish up this post.

Tomorrow is a busy day, but not overwhelming. It may turn out to be a late night as we are planning on going to a Jazz clue in the Latin Quarter after dinner.

Until tomorrow bon soir.

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Photos

Site of First Lunch
L'Enfance de Lard

Jerry's First Lunch
Roasted Chicken

My First Lunch
Nicoise Salad

Dish of the Day
Face en Face