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Published: June 10th 2019
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Eckmühl Lighthouse
307 Steps to the Top Sunday 2nd June
This morning there was a market in Guilvinec, so I went there first thing to have a look at all the amazing fresh produce and food stalls, as well as stalls selling clothes, cosmetics and even mattresses. I bought some strawberries and some cashews, both delicious.
I then headed off to see the Eckmühl Lighthouse, only about 15 mins away, located at the extreme south-western point of Brittany. It is an impressive structure, and I paid my entry and climbed the 307 steps up the dizzying spiral staircase to the top. The view was impressive, and I could easily see back across the bay to Guilvinec, as well as north along the west coast of Brittany.
I then headed off in a north-westerly direction to go to Pointe du Raz, which sticks out west into the Atlantic, and is
almost the most westerly point of mainland France, making it
almost the end of France. Along the way I stopped briefly to see the Tronoën Calvary, dated 1450, then at the town of Audierne, which has an attractive port and streetscape, and later at a beachside picnic table at Loc'h to eat my picnic lunch –
strawberries and cashews and whatnot! A very pretty spot, but it started to rain and I moved on to Pointe du Raz. Here one parks about 1.5km from the point, and there are two tracks out to the point, one direct and one following the coast, so it made sense to do a loop. The terrain is clearly windswept, with only low bushy plants growing. At the point there is a military installation, a religious statue, and a lighthouse on guard. The lighthouse is called La Vieille. It was rather windy out on the point, and unfortunately the cloudy sky made getting well-exposed photographs a bit tricky, but it's an impressive geographical feature and was well worth the visit.
I then started making my way east again, I guess you could say I was now on the return part of my trip. I stopped in the town of Douarnenez, another very attractive coastal town, with a good vantage point on a high bridge from which one can see the port and portside façades. Continuing to follow the coast around as it turned north, I passed the long beach of Le Lestrevet. This place really reminded me of Australia, because
it looks like an Australian beach – a sandy beach with plenty of surfers, para-surfers (is that the right term? Remember I live inland now, and have forgotten all the coastal lingo), a sandy beachside café, etc. This was the best looking beach I've seen in France.
I now headed back east again, heading for my overnight stop in the beautiful Mont d'Arret area, part of the Parc Natural Regional d'Armorique. Readers of Asterix books will recognise the regional name. Along the way, the road took me across the stunning Térénez Bridge, a cable-strayed, curved masterpiece of a bridge, which reminded me of my visit to see the incomparable Millau Viaduct on my last trip. Next I reached the beautiful village of Le Faou, another of les plus beaux villages de France. I had time for a stroll around, and it was interesting to see the different style of medieval buildings, with the shingles continued down the front of the building from the roof.
I then headed to the gîte which would be my overnight stop, in the beautiful countryside of the Monts d'Arrée area. The gîte was on a farm, and was virtually brand new. The owner
was very preoccupied with preserving the place, and wanted a 200 euro damage deposit, which I did not have. I was able to negotiate out of it, but he still threatened a 50 euro cleaning charge if I did not clean up after my stay, the first time I've encountered such a mercenary approach during my travels!
Tomorrow I will be heading to the north coast of Brittany, including the famous Coast of Pink Granite.
The panorama shows the beach at Le Loc'h, on the road to Pointe du Raz. This was my lunch picnic spot.
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