Into central Brittany

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Theres only so long you can spend by the sea and it was time to head inland and to see what central Brittany had to offer, it is an agricultural landscape, as wherever we drive sweetcorn grows. Used for animal feed we discover, and after scrumping some inedible corns!! It is growing in all the fields, further inland this becomes cabbage and leeks we assume these may be some of the vegetables we have purchased from the local markets, all we have bought has been good and it is great to see a passion for all things French available to purchase, perhaps the UK could learn something from its philosophy! Anyway back to the trip, we have found that the seaside Aires are the hardest to find space in so if in doubt head to a small village, and La Vrai Croix with some dead quite neighbours (next to the cemetery) was a delight as was the bakers which served up the most delightful almond croissants. The next morning we are up early and make our way to Josselin, the story book village lies on the banks of the River Oust, its witch’s-hat turreted 14th century castle takes the prime location next to the river, and make it a charming spot to spend the night. The Foret de Pampont seem an ideal stop to get some proper walking in, and Poppy off the lead or so we think! The forest is legendary as the place where King Arthur received the Excalibur sword!?! But they sell the story well and there is a map which help you find the ‘six secrets’ and the villages seem to thrive on it, the walking is not what we are used to but we manage a lake side walk (Poppy on the lead) and another 6m round trip which leads us to the Golden Tree!. After three nights of relaxation it is time to move to an Aire closer to Normandy our destination of Mont St Michel, one of Frances most iconic, and most visited images. The Aire at Bazuges la Perose gives us the added surprise of seeing a Red Squirrel! The plan is to get to Mont early so after a very ealy start we arrive at the park and ride at 8.30am and a speedy way to get onto the island, as we have left Poppy in the van as we understand that with thousands of visitors even late on in Sept it will not be a good place for dogs and our plan to go into the Abbey where dogs will not be allowed. The Bay around The Mont is empty and hide tide is not expected until around lunchtime, with a tidal variation of an astonishing 15m it is said to come in like galloping horses so would be good to see. The Mont is an amazing sight in its own right, Inspired by a vision from St Michel, Bishop Aubert is compelled to ‘build here and build high’ Starting as a Benedictine monastery, pilgrims flocked to it to honour St Michael, it survived being burnt and its ramparts and fortifications are what ensures it doesn’t fall to the English assault during the Hundred Years War. Having arrived early we head straight for the Abbey. This Abbey was built on the rocky tip of the mountain cone everything here is built to support the structure, the three levels of the abbey reflect the monastic hierarchy. It is a dark and austere place to wander and the idea that you would spend your time here undertaking religious duties is felt right to the core of the place, the terraces giving grand views out to sea and back to the mainland a welcome breathing space. Our return trip back down the later village area that grew up at the base of the Abbey is only spoiled by the fact they they are now the obligatory tourist shops!

Our journey brings us back full circle to the coast and a stop at a delightful Bay of Rotheneuf just east of St Malo and a good point to make a quick visit to the port, our plan to take the bus is thwarted when we find that dogs need to be carried onto buses in a bag! And the bus driver he say NON!! We do again (leaving Poppy in Harvey) manage a couple of hours in St Malo and a walk around the ramparts. Our next stop is Dinan and we saved the best to last, not lost on the thousands of visitor who flock here yearly again sat on a river the cobbled streets meander through ancient timbered streets and alleys, the top half of the town becomes more modern but they blend together well. The morning takes us onto the ramparts for a walk and before the rain arrives for the next 48hrs. The final walk is from Perros Girec and the campsite along the GR34 which takes you along the Pink Granite Coastline a strange landscape of Bolders and stones all balanced precariously on each other. Our final stop has to be by the sea and the campsite at Locquirec doesn’t disappoint a sandy bay warm weather and time to reflect on how lucky we are to be able to do what we love.

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