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Published: August 25th 2019
As we drive....
.....a typical village wedged in a valley at the foo of a mountain.We I’ve never spent much time in regional France before, and while I’m not the most seasoned traveler, it’s an area that deserves more attention.
Tim hit the snooze button today so it was a late start to Colmar. We hit the road at 10.30am and were in Colmar ........later. It’s appeal for visitors lies in its riverside streets lined with picturesque flower decked houses, a common feature of the Alsatian villages that we have visited. A French town, developed on the banks of the River Lauch in the Rhine Valley, it was dedicated to the 3rd Emperor Charlemagne. It’s name is said to come from a tower that had a dovecote. Villa Columbaria became Columbra ( Colombo is French for dove), and then shortened to Colmar. It is the birthplace of the previously mentioned Auguste Bartholdi, the designer of the Statue of Liberty. From 1870 -1914, Colmar was occupied by Germany but fought to maintain its French traditions and always resisted the German influences. During the world wars Alsatian residents were conscripted to fight for the German cause and many died fighting for a purpose that they didn’t support.
The images you usually see of Colmar are of
Storks are returning to Ribeauville
After a period when they were scarce, storks are encouraged to return to their traditional homes. vivid colours, calm canals, and quiet accessible streets welcoming you to enjoy the town in peace.Well, two out of three ain’t bad, and by most measures is a pass.
It is actually more lovely than any pictures can show, it is a very chilled out place to visit. No traffic, no hassles, but the crowds do turn up to enjoy Colmar. Admittedly it is Sunday, and for many it’s just a day out at a nice place, but for us it’s probably a once only trip. Small boats powered by silent electric motors, carry eager visitors along the narrow canals, with passengers having to duck their heads as they pass under low bridges. We enjoyed a coffee and pretzel at a waterside cafe, and had our senses assaulted by the strong pungent odour of cooked Munster cheese wafting from a nearby cafe. This cheese is very strong to eat and the smell is strongest as it hits your mouth. It reminds me of bad sock; not mine of course.
Most tourist towns in France, and indeed Spain, have small colourful tourist trains, and while it might seem corny to ride one, it is a tourist train, not a
Colmar Vespa Club.
Small club, nice bikes. children’s ride. I’ve done them before but this place is more suited to strolling around. Colmar, with its bright narrow buildings, interesting smells- ranging from the soft stinky cheeses to the more desirable sweet scent of cooking waffles and crepes- is another reason to head to the Alsace region. We may never return but, tick, it’s done.
We stayed in Colmar for about two hours, the historical district and Little Venice only cover a small area. Outside of this the town is standard suburbia and a large industrial area on the outskirts.
Returning from Colmar, we diverted past the hillside villages of Riquewihr and Hunawihr. They are minutes from Ribeauville and form part of the charming wine region of Alsace.
Riquewihr , regarded as one of the most beautiful ville in France, has a history dating back to the 5th Century and is believed to be named after a freeborn owner called Richo who worked vineyards in the area. It became known as Richovilla, eventually changed to Riquewihr. This could be a potential pilgrimage destination for supporters of Richmond Football Club. Apologies to those who don’t get the connection.
We approached Riquewihr late in the day
but the streets were still buzzing with tourists. I’m not going say much about the history but it was a fortified village, it suffered greatly during the 36 Years War from 1618-1648, and came under French rule in 1680. During the French Revolution, Riquewihr supported the French Republic and in 1796, under the Treaty of Paris, the dukes of Württemberg-Montbéliard were thrown out and it was permanently part of France.
It’s architecture is typical of many local villages and are brightly coloured with dark, exposed oak frames. As you wander the cobbled streets, you notice stone doorways chiseled with the symbol of the trade of the occupant and it’s year of construction. Buildings were usually marked with the stonemason‘s name, and this was how their pay was calculated. The Main Street between the two village entrances is home to many traditional shops , gift shops, and dining options. We only had a coffee and an ice cream but if we hadn’t had plans to eat at Hunawihr, the aromas following us down the street would be hard to resist.
Hunawihr was only a short drive to the base of the mountains and it’s a very pretty village surrounded
by vineyards. This is the money spinner here and even tiny allotments inside the village grow grapes. It’s a white wine district, and similar to the area we visited a couple of days ago, it’s harvest time. In one town, we saw advertisements for pickers, so I assume that while most locals work the vines- what else is there- this is the busy time and getting the crop in is time critical.
The Church of Hunawihr is the main reason people visit this village, although strolling through the narrow twisted lanes, similar to a maze, has its own special charm. The church has gone through 3 major building phases but was first constructed in the 11th Century, later replaced by its modern upgrade in the 15th to 16th centuries. It became a Simultaneum in 1687, allowing both Catholic and Protestant religions to use the church for their services.
Saint-Jacques- Le-Majeur Is names after Saint James and is an important stopover for pilgrims on the way to Santiago de Compostela. Paintings uncovered on the church wall, dating back to the end of the 15th Century, show pilgrims being accepted at Hunawihr. The paintings were discovered in 1878 , and
Colmar.
The French love a bicycle ride. They’re a common form of transport. were restored in 1968.
The church is surrounded by vineyards and sits with the protection of its fortified cemetery. There are picnic tables there and it’s dinner time.. After a quick picnic in the shadows of the Hunawihr Church and it’s graveyard inhabitants, the decision was taken to quickly call into Kaysersberg, just a few kilometres away. It is meant to be a pretty town, won the French 2017 Town of the Year, what have we got to lose?
Kaysersberg was originally a Roman settlement known as Caesaris Mons, or the emperors mountain. It was a strategic link between ancient Gaul and the Rhine Valley. It does have museums, fine food venues and the usual shops trying to peddle souvenirs, but we were just there on a whim and after a circuit of the main streets and a cold drink at a cafe, we were gone. It’s worth a visit but, at the risk os sounding blasé, there are common features running through these villages, and the real interest is in finding the unique characteristics of a village. They all have something special that is different and makes the visit worthwhile, and it’s generally well signed and easy
Market Shed Colmar
The side doors woul have once been for goods arriving by boat. to find.
One thing I have noticed is that we seem to be one week early for the many festivals and activities that each village holds. Whether it’s a harvest season thing I don’t know; but it feels like a tren after seeing so many.
Tomorrow we’re going to Freiburg in Germany, and whatever takes our attention on the way. Well eat in tonight but I might go for an evening walk through Ribeauville after dinner.
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