26 August 2019: Freiburg, Falafels, and Funiculars.

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Today we had an unscheduled stop, in a remote area surrounded by cornfields and a small industrial area. We were on our way to Freiburg, and as can happen, an opportunity arose too good to pass on.

It was the Maginot Line Museum, a small display centred around a WWII pillbox, or raised steel ‘blind bell ‘. After WWI, the French decided that a line of defence needed to be established in order to prevent a repeat of the easy capitulation that had occurred in previous wars. Several pillboxes were established to repel enemy advances. These defensive posts held 30 men and were completely self sufficient, except for showering, that took place outside when it was safe. It had a remarkable display of war weapons and was still maintained in original condition, showing sleeping quarters, cooking arrangements, and even the diesel power generator. Gun turrets and other armaments were on display and the damage sustained during combat was clearly evident. Outside there was a Sherman tank and other military vehicles and cannons, and a bomb crater was located next to the pill box. It was about 2 metres deep and 6 metres wide; it was the real deal and was now a little overgrown with weeds.

What an eye opening display. And we just stumbled across it. It certainly gave me a sharper appreciation of the claustrophobic, dangerous conditions these brave soldiers fought in. At any time they would be aware that they were potentially in a steel coffin.

. Freiburg is the hottest, sunniest town in Germany. So the literature says. Today I would believe it. It was warm by European standards, and I had a snooze in the car on the way there.

What I did notice was corn, and that’s all. Tall , tightly packed green stalks dominated the roadside, and everywhere else was the stubble where corn had been harvested. Not very interesting to see; sorry I mentioned it.

Freiburg, on the other hand, is super organised German university town, with an eye for environmental responsibility.

Arriving by car, we were required to park on the edge of town in a ‘ Park and Ride, or a P&R. Permits can be obtained to drive in the centre but it depends on the age of your vehicle, pollution emissions and what the purpose of your visit is. Our 10 year old Nissan Micra, as reliable as it is, wouldn’t make the cut.

After parking in the large, free parking lot, we caught the electric tram and were in the city in 10 minutes. No inconvenience and very inexpensive.

Freiburg is a major university hub at the foot of the Black Forest, just over the border from France. It’s spacious cobbled streets led us to the Munsterplatz, where the weekday market was in full swing. The first impression I had was of the strong smell of the traditional large sausages that hang over both ends of a roll, like a giant in a cot. Various mustards spice up the flavour, and the queues lined up for vendors are several people deep. All claim to be the ‘original and the best’ but I couldn’t see the difference.

We scanned all the stalls, trying not to look too interested. Sue bought a pendant watch, but most of the tourist stalls look like they’re stocked from China. Bright, tacky gimmicks - we love that stuff - screamed, Buy me, Buy me, your grandson would love me, but it’s too early in the trip for that nonsense.

Don’t worry Ezra, you won’t miss out.

It almost goes without saying that Freiburg has the history, charm and vibrance of many other towns we’ve been through, but the market at Munterplatz, surrounded by tall pastel buildings, and safe in the shadow of the imposing 12th Century cathedral that was 300 years in the making, are the special feature that set Freiburg apart from others.

We shared morning tea in the square with a few dozen bees who hovered and latched onto anything remotely like sugar. One table remained vacant through our whole stay due to a jam sachet left on the table that drew the attention of about 20 bees. People would sit down, suddenly jerk back after noticing them, and quietly shift tables.

Cigarette smoke is another aroma that is unavoidable in Freiburg, or indeed Germany, as you can still smoke anywhere outside, and more people seem to, compared to Australia. It seems a bit contradictory to the pollution measures but I suppose it is a different deal.

Lunch was a vegetarian affair at the local Turkish falafel shop and that’s the food I’d happily eat every day. The pita bread, hummus and falafels were fresh and well spiced, and the colourful salads and homemade lemonade completed a wholesome delicious meal.

Fully replenished, we wandered down to Little Venice - does everywhere have a Little Venice - bitterly disappointed by the excess of Little, and the complete lack of Venice. However, the toy shop by the river made a few sales and the boy I mentioned earlier was on the leaders board.

Our day in Freiburg was nearing an end but we had one more experience in the bag; the Funicular.

A Funicular is a land based cable car that runs up a track on the edge of a mountain. Sue wasn’t keen but a vote of 2 to 1 had her waiting for the arrival of our lift to the peak. She gets nervous but I’m certainly not putting myself in harms way, and I think she can draw confidence from that, regardless of the ridiculous shit that I’ve done in the past.

Our little blue Funicular arrived, we stepped in with 4 other passengers, Tim pushed START, and we crawled skyward. The German guy on board thought it was a rip off, a scam, but it did what it promised; it was a ride to the top.

The mountain we climbed was the start of the Black Forest, and we walked along a oak lined pathway where the bright green illuminated leaves filtered the sun, making the heat less oppressive than the town below. A small group wandered the peak, admiring the views across Freiburg and the valley beyond.

Back at the bottom, we sat in a manicured shady park listening to a guitar duo busking under an ancient tree, drinking coffee from the kiosk , and anticipating the drive home.

Tim wanted to call into another village on the Rhine , to break up the trip and enjoy the river. The village was Breisath, and we ended up having dinner at a hotel perched high above the Rhine River, overlooking the Voges Mountains. The river is a major route for commercial transport and cruise boats. A couple of Viking Cruises motored by and recreational skiers and private house boats passed as we ate dinner.

The trip home was uneventful except for the Gilets Jilets, the Yellow Jackets , who were set up on a roundabout on our route home. We thought of pulling over for an encouraging chat, but starting a conversation with - our driver is a banker from Luxembourg - seemed like a bad idea so we drove on. They don’t like the establishment , and my working class inspiration would never have taken hold.

The sunset over the mountains was a fitting end to a memorable day. Freiburg is worth the visit and probably a couple of days would be better, but our glimpse of life there will have to do this trip.

It’s visits like these we can plan a longer trip on.

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Photos

American Engineers Temporary Bridge Set Up In 1940’s
It was left there and was in use until 1986. The army build a good bridge.

Damaged Turret
Built still wedged in hole.

No, Not A Hammond Organ
This was the main phone communication unit in the pillbox

The old town hall, Freiburg
Built 16th Century.

Freiburg Bächle
A unique drain system that runs water through the township. The only use I saw was little kids playing with boats in them.

Munsterplatz
The Cathedral market square, Freiburg

Bees Around A Jam Sachaet
They certainly kept that table unoccupied.

The Freiburg Sausage,
Didn’t have one but they looked and smelt unreal

The Old Millhouse, Little Venice, Freiburg
The only good thing at Little Venice

Looking Back Down The Funicular
It was steep.

Freiburg Cathedral
From the top of the mountain