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Published: September 3rd 2006
Berlin - Prague (Train)
6 August Prague (Praha) is really a city full of “B’s”. So much so, it probably could be renamed “Brague (Braha)”. The first “B” is the reputed beauty of this city whose historical buildings were for the most part, unscathed throughout the Second World War. Goethe called it “the prettiest gem in the stone crown of the world” (and he got around a bit - for his time). “B” is also for Bohemia, which is what the Czech Republic was known as when it was ruled by the monarchy until 1918.
A “B” for basilicas, with the large gothic style cathedral on the hill and the Prague castle nearby. There is “B” for baroque, which was the architectural style preferred by Maria Theresa: the 18th century Hapsburg ruler of Austro-Hungarian and Bohemia. She renovated Prague’s Romanesque, Gothic and neo-gothic structures to become her summer residence and the bohemian version of Venice. The Czechs wistfully describe these modifications in a manner that caused me to imagine them saying, “this castle building was once a magnificent example of a gothic fortress, but then Maria Theresa came to Prague … and now it is baroque (…read: broke)”.
(Leanne groaned when she heard this joke too).
Of the “B” for bridges that cross the Vltava River, the Charles Bridge is the most famous with 30 sculptures along its length and an imposing, gothic tower: the gate to the old town. John of Nepomuk was thrown to his death in the river from this bridge at the behest of the King for not divulging the details of the Queens confession. He was later canonised as the patron saint for drowning. His sculpture is on the bridge, adorned with a circlet of seven stars, marking the place where he was thrown.
“B” is for brothers and for Boleslav, the second king of Bohemia. Our tour guide told us the story of a family where the mother of two brothers - Wencelas and Boleslav - murdered their grandmother (her mother-in-law). Wencelas went on to rule Bohemia (the very same “good” King Wencelaus from the Christmas carols) only for Boleslav to then murder him and so gain the Ducal Crown and be known through history as Boleslav I The Cruel.
“B’s” for buck’s parties, brides, bridesmaids, ‘bif’steaks and Britain as a plethora of these modern invaders book 1 pound, easyjet
fares and descend on Prague to mark their rites of passage. This results in a trail of cultural devastation with over priced tourist menus serving up Czech interpretations of UK’s finest stodge, pints of inferior quality larger and football chants ringing into the night.
Last, but not least, “B” is for beer (and you thought we might have forgotten). Salvation is in the “B” for Budvar: Bohemia’s (and the world’s) finest pilsner. Otherwise known internationally as Budweiser - but not in the USA where this brand is a weak imitation of what Czechs would call actually call beer.
T
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Andrew Paisley
non-member comment
You b*&^%*ards
You know how to hurt a guy. I have been reading your travel blogs with keen interest and not a small amount of jealousy (the reason for the censored profanity in the title!). You previous series of journals were actaully somewhat like reading a diary of my own from 25 years ago. Your observations of the French etc. Seesm nothing has changed in all that time. Anyway, sounds like you are having a wow of a time. (I failed on my promise of a min-blog from the Tassie track, and then figured it pales next to your current journey's anyway. So, maybe someday over a beer.) Keep the blogs coming: they brighten up Monday mornings at the office. Cheers Andrew