Eastern Bloc Party

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I'm on a train from Salzburg to Prague. Why not check out Prague while we're so close? We woke up and caught the train at the very civilized hour of 11:30am.


It's sad to leave Austria - the mountains are capped with snow and everything looks so neat and tidy. The buildings all look like slices of wedding cake stacked next to each other. We had the most relaxed time, buying train tickets and meeting a nice older American couple on a clean, cushy train with big blue seats. We changed trains at the border of the Czech Republic where we were let off on the tracks and deposited in front of a row of serious-looking men in uniform who came to check our passports. Mike translated: "Where's the stamp? The Americans like to get a stamp." Cute.


Our transport changed to an older, much more primitive train with hard, tall-backed benches in compartments. The heat won't turn off and it's already warm in here. One of the Americans went to search for beer in a dining car and reported back: "No food, just a surly-looking blond woman in a hat." Another report: no t.p. in the w.c!! I am the only one who's surprised. The scenery has gone from neat and tidy to a flip-flop of rolling green hills and bleak-looking towns. The living quarters look tiny, dirty and about 1,000 years old. Everyone has a garden because it's hard to get veggies without going broke.


The weather adds to the dismal effect - grey and rainy. The train brakes jump and screech whenever we stop - ow! Welcome to the Eastern Bloc.


Prague is now my second favorite city in Europe, although we only had one day to tour. After walking (packs-n-all) 2 1/2 hours to a hostel that was 15 minutes away and up a big hill, we checked in!! We = us and John from New Zealand. We got directions to the dorm room: up 4 flights, unlock the door and then up 2 more flights(!!!) The hostel is a dark, smoky attic with lots of beer and bohemian-looking young people. It's a shabby place, the dorm has about 40 beds, creatively put anywhere possible. Makes me think of getting cheap real estate somewhere in the world, renting mattresses and selling beer.


Next day, first to the train station, then onto downtown! This is where I fell in love with Prague. Every building looks like a castle - magnificent and ornate. We had sausages for breakfast (cheap!) and beer in a "torture" bar (cheap cheap!) We toured the hill where the palace sits among the beautiful churches and quaint apartments and bars. Our favorite restaurant is across from the hostel, where bottles of red wine go for about $4. The city's a lot more enjoyable when you know where your bed is...

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Photos

Johnny Walker Black for $2?
It's true! In Prague, the comforts are cheap and the architecture is elegant.