Karlstein -- WOW, what a castle


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Published: May 6th 2005
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Taken from an open meadow beond the village.
Last year, before we flew to Prague to be part of a hiking Elderhostel group, we saw a picture of the Karlstein Castle.

"If we do nothing else I want to go to this castle," Nancy said. It wasn't because I had seen a picture of the castle either. It was because I had been reading a book written right after World War II by a young British woman who was a frequent visitor to Prague. She had talked about the short pleasant train ride and how easy it was to get out to the castle. Last summer I had supposed that, like the USA, the Czech transportation system had lost most of its convenient trains. So I didn't push to try to figure out how to go to the Castle. I'm so glad the Czechs were smarter than the Americans and have kept trams, busses and trains. It was just as easy in 2005 to head to Karlstein Castle as it was in 1945.

Well, we didn't make it last June, but we were determined to visit Karlstein this year before we head home. It was just too cold during the winter, but now that spring is here today seemed like the right day to made such a day trip.

Our friend, Johanna joined us and off we went. I was surprised, the round trip tickets only cost 50 Kns each, just a bit over $2.00.

Karlstein is 29 Km. south west of Prague. Commuter trains go every half hour and takes only about thirty minutes on the train. Being a local the train made about five or six stops with people getting off at each stop. Thought the train was fairly crowded when we got on in Prague by the time we arrived in Karlstein it was fairly empty.

It is about a mile and a half walk to the castle from the train station. The first mile is quite flat. The path goes along the Berounka river to a bridge where we crossed to the castle side of the valley. Crossing the bridge we turned right and walked to the small village. The castle sits high above the village. I thought the first view of the castle was quite breathtaking. [Nancy-Bills first view was long after mine and Johanna's. We had seen it as a brief view from the train. Bill had been
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Taken from a grove of evergreen trees.
looking the other direction.

The village, as you might expect, is a tourist haven. Charles IV had no idea in 1345 that by building the castle he would be enriching the village certuries in the future. I am sure that was a concept that never occurred to him or anyone else in that era. He had other things to worry about, like protecting the crown jewels of the Holy Roman Empire.

" Now, that is a castle, I thought as I looked upward.

We walked through the village and up the steep pathway to the castle. For visitors there is only one entrance and, in truth, I did not see any other entrances. With enemies like those which Charles IV must have had in the 14th century, why have more than one entrance to the castle?

For me personally, the most interesting feature of the castle is the Well Tower. Built at the extreme end the drop from the top of the well to the water is over 250 feet. A hugh bucket was lowered by a large rope, tipped in some manner, filled with water and then cranked back up to the castle. That is
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Our first view of Karlstein from the village.
one job I do not believe I would have relished. Of course in those days I doubt there were many jobs I would have enjoyed.

As we entered the castle ,we saw a car decorated for a wedding. We had visited the Well Tower and upon returning to the castle courtyard, low and behold, there was the bride. I decided "Why not," and I snapped a picture of the happy bride on her wedding day.

Mirka told us yesterday that across a valley there is a mountain meadow ... "like a gold course" were her words. From the castle rampart we saw the meadow. "Let's walk there," Nancy said. "Mirka says there is a beautiful view of the castle from there."

We left the castle and walked down a path through the woods and back into the village. Walking back up the hill we finally saw a street bearing off our our right.

"It has to be that way," I said. We walked up the street and found a steep path leading up to the meadow. The day was quite warm, but fortunately a nice breeze was blowing. I kept looking back and could see nothing
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The round tower is the Well Tower. It is 78 meters, a little over 250 feet, from the tower floor to the water.
but trees. But I knew there had to be a point where we could be able to see the castle. After all, if I could see the meadow from the castle than I surely could see the castle from the meadow.

Finally the castle came into view and what a view it is. We walked from point to point in the meadow snapping pictures and enjoying the view. Johanna sat and then lay in the grass, enjoying the sun. Two benches under a grove of evergreen trees gave me a good place to sit and enjoy the view. Others walked up the path and joined us. Finally Nancy and Johanna joined me under the trees. [Nancy-We saw the sweetest sight there under the tree. A boy of about 9 was laying on the ground hugging his dog. By the time we could get the camera out he had moved slightly and the picture is not quite as wonderful as it could have been a few seconds earlier.

After a half hour or so I said, "Well, let's go back and have some lunch."

After we walked back to the village we found a nice outdoor cafe where we rested our feet and had a good lunch. Johanna was a wonderful traveling companion. It's a pity we don't have more time to go places with the students. They have so much work to do, books to read, essays to write and jobs around campus to earn spending money that they don't 'play' very often. They will all be gone after May 24th and then the campus will seem very empty and lonely to us. I can't imagine a whole month here without the students. I doubt if we will enjoy our time then as much as we have up till now.

And then, back to Prague.





Additional photos below
Photos: 21, Displayed: 21


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Karlstein Castle

The entrance to the castle.
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Karlstein Castle

From the inside looking back to the entrance.
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Karlstein Castle

Looking along a wall to the Water Tower.
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Karlstein Castle

Looking back to the entrance.
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Karlstein Castle

The village, far below in the valley. The Water Tower is on the right.
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Karlstein Castle

From the courtyard.
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Karlstein Castle

Tudor style of architecture.
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Karlstein Castle

Rooftops from the courtyard.
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On the way to Karlstein

Nancy and Johanna, on the train to Karlstein.
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Karlstein Castle

Nancy and Johanna walking back to the village from the meadow.
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Karlstein Castle

A boy and dog looking at the castle from the meadow.
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Karlstein Castle

Another view of the castle from the village. We had just returned from the mountain meadow.
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Karlstein Castle

The outdoor cafe where we had our late lunch.
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Karlstein Castle

The train station at Karlstein.


8th May 2007

Castle
Very interested to read of your visit and to see the pictures. Have been trying to find where Karlstein is located, as i would like to revisit for another reason - my parents and I were imprisoned there by the Nazis in forced labour towards the end of WW2, and managed to escape through Austria, Tirol and Italy as the war was ending. I am currently researching our family history, so your article fills a gap in the story.
9th May 2007

Location of Karlstein Castle
Karlstein is a short train ride out of Prague, about 20 km. There are commuter trains from Prague to Karlstein hourly. Morning trains leave at 26 after the hour: 9:26, 10:26, 11:26 and take about forty minutes. Opening hours: February ,March 9 - 12 a.m., 1 - 3 p.m. April, October 9 - 12 a.m., 1 - 4 p.m. May, June, September 9 - 12 a.m., 12,30 - 5 p.m., July, August 9 - 12 a.m., 12,30 - 6 p.m. Closed: Monday. If a state holiday is on a Monday, the castle is closed on Tuesday then. I hope you get to visit. Thanks for your e-mail. As always, Bill
4th July 2007

Thanks for this article
I was emailed a link to Karlstein Castle by a friend who lives in CZ as a place that I might like to visit when on holiday there in a few days time. Reading your article confirms that I must not miss Karlstein Castle off of the places that I must vistit. Thank you very much for such a lovely blog.
2nd September 2007

Reflections from another visitor
We just recently completed a driving vacation of the area. We did not pre-purchase tickets to the castle and did not get to see the famed chapel. Personally, without that portion, I found the castle somewhat plain and boring. Much of the furnishings, artwork, etc are gone. So, if you plan to visit, I would make sure to purchase the chapel tour in advance. Also, we drove, and used a GPS to find the castle. I strongly caution you not to do this. The village of Karlstejn is CLOSED to public traffic during the day AS ARE THE ROADS LEADING TO THE CASTLE AND THE VILLAGE. And unfortunately, if you do not speak Czech as we did not, you may fall prey to a nasty little trap. We were ticked 500 Czech Crown because we drove on the road and parked in what appeared to be open castle parking. In fact, it was UNUSED, but reserved parking for special occasions like weddings. We returned to the car to find a Denver Boot on the car with a note to find the police station or call. Having no cell phone, we were going to walk to try to find the station. Luckily I suppose, the police returned as we were beginning our descent into the village. It was an honest mistake and the parking was unused that day. For such a tourist location, it would have been nice to have a little more clearly marked signs. We studied international signs, but without being able to read Czech, we could not determine the particular signage for this situation. We planned to do quite a bit of shopping that day in the village. I have to say I was so frustrated with the situation that it really put a damper on the day and the castle. As a result we chose not to spend any more money in the village. We would have felt much better if the police had understood and been compassionate because we wanted to learn more about their community and history. They probably cost their village around 3000 Crown because we were looking for Bohemian Crystal and other gifts and souvenirs. Hopefully we will save someone else the same upsetting experience by sharing ours. :-)
15th April 2008

Treasures
I went there too as part of an Austria-Germany-Czech Rep. trip. Indeed a wonderful castle. I took the guided tour trough the interior (btw a very informative experience). One of the tours (there are 2 options, if I remember well) took us to a display of part of the treasures of Charles IV. Among the pieces was a curious reptillian skull (according to our guide, now believed to be a crocodile's). Apparently, Charles IV believed it to be the skull of Saint George's dragon. So cool!!!

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