Sofia

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Hello everyone,
Bulgaria is more like the former Soviet block atmosphere that I had expected. You still see horse carts and horses instead of tractors in fields. They use shepherds instead of fencing. They are trying to get on track--hope to join the European Union in 2007. Their history during WWII is a little different. The government chose to support Germany rather than Russia, but the people wanted to support Russia--Russia had liberated them from Turkish domination back in 1878. The damage from bombing was actually done by Russia. The Soviets still liberated them and they became part of the Soviet bloc.

Interesting fact--Bulgaria is the only European country to always have the same name, since 681. Another interesting fact is that they elected a former king as their prime minister in 2001. His name is King Simeon Saxe-Coburg and he took the throne when he was six years old. In 1946 the communists overthrew the monarchy and the king moved to Spain. He grew up and had a successful career as a businessman before he returned to Bulgaria and ran for prime minister. They say he did a good job.

Religion is important to Bulgarians and church attendance is high. My guide said it goes back to the 500 years when they were "under the Turkish yoke" (Muslim) and church was the one thing that united Bulgarians as Bulgarians. We visited a Bulgarian Orthodox Church. The altar is behind an ornate set of gates with curtains. Only the priest is allowed to see the altar. On first impression, it looked like the Russian Orthodox in style, but as the guide pointed out, the left-hand side of the church is where you sit if you are praying for the still living and the right-hand side is if you are praying for someone who is already dead. I resisted asking if the middle was for praying for those living that you just wish were dead.

A big concern in Bulgaria is the birthrate. It is negative. More people die than are born. Main problem is that with the poor economy, many people emmigrated to other countries and many of those were young and of childbearing age. Most married people have only one child. It is just too expensive to have more.

An impressive fact--in 1943 when news leaked out about extermination camps, a movement was started by the leaders of the Bulgarian Orthodox Church and included doctors, lawyers, writers, ordinary citizens and the royal family. They managed to rescue all 49,000 of their Jewish citizens. Nobody was lost. Actually, Denmark did the same thing.

Bulgarians have an interesting quirk. They shake their heads to mean yes and nod to mean no. Problem is that I never know if they have reversed it because they know I am a foreigner. Finally got on to asking for transit tickets instead of asking if they sold transit tickets.

Speaking of transit tickets, travelling here has challenges. The signs are all written in the Cyrillic alphabet (same as Russia) but the streets on their maps are written in English. But then city maps are not available in most places, so I just get lost--a lot. I look at it as an inexpensive city tour without the commentary. When I have had enough I just jump in a cab to take me home.

Bye for now,
Donna

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Photos

1
St. Nikolai Russian Church in Sofia. Built in 1912 by Russian workmen and paid for by Nicholas II. That is why it is named after him. Holds the body of St. Serafim. Pray to him at the church and miracles happen.

2
Statue of Sofia in middle of town. 75 feet high and weighs four tons. Looks like Barbie on steroids.

3
St. Nedelya Church. Original church built in 10th century. In 1925 an attempt was made to assassinate King Boris III by the Bulgarian Communist Party. In the terrorist action that followed in the church, 220 died and 500 were injured.

4
Statue in Liberation Square honours Russia who liberated Bulgaria from Turkish rule. The have mixed feelings about the fifty years of Soviet rule.

5
The rotunda of St. George. The red bricks are the give away that it is ancient Roman.

6
The entrance to St. Petka Samardzhiiska. This church has operated every day 11th century. Inside it measures just 15' x 30'.

8
Changing of the guards wearing authentic uniforms.

9
The Alexander Nevsky Cathedral. It recently got spruced up with new gold leaf donated by mother Russia.

10
Kiosks are everywhere selling newspapers, cigs, soft drinks, etc. They even have them in basements. Squatting down was easy. Getting back up wasn't so easy!

Comments

[Zakabamzam]

interesting facts
a good entry donna, it's made me go back over a few of the places that i saw yesterday - rich

[Colleen at BBBS]

Friend says hello
So enjoy reading about your travels. CJ at Bayview mall says hello.

[Linda Peers]

Fascinating! Yes for no and no for yes. I suppose we all know a few people who are living that we wish were dead. You're funny! Linda Peers