Rural Bulgaria

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Hello everyone,

The highlight of my travels through Bulgaria was at the town of Veliko Tarnovo.
It goes way back and has a huge fortress. Visiting during the day was okay, but at 9:30 most evenings they have a light and sound show. The music was specially written and covers the history of Bulgaria. The entire structure--cathedral, walls, gates are lit up with lights coordinated with the music. In all they use 630 km. of cables powering 2500 colour projectors, 140 flash lights, laser rays and 6 mechanical bells. The show lasts about half an hour and is just wonderful. Even better, it is free!

Just outside Veliko Tarnovo is the village of Arbanasi. Bulgaria is very mountainous and this village is ideally situated to take advantage of the beautiful scenery. Back in the 1600's it was the summer playground for the rich, nobles and royalty. Problem was that everyone else knew that this was where you could find all the rich folks in the summer, so there was always the threat of robbery. As a result, the cottages they built were designed to avoid losses. The good news is that because these places were built as fortresses, they have held up for all these centuries. First, they are built with thick stone walls. There are no balconies. The windows all have iron rods across them and each window has sliding shutters made of heavy wood. Interestingly, homes built even today also have these heavy sliding shutters. The servants lived on the main level and the owners lived on the upper level for more protection. Within the house, each room is designed as a fortress within the fortress. If there are windows facing a hallway, they have iron rods and the doors that are as heavy as the outside door in the picture. Each house had a secret hiding place for valuables--jewellry, etc. There was also a hidden trap door that led to a special room in the basement. If the house was attacked by robbers, the women and children could get into the special room. Speaking of women and children. Each house had a special room that used only for labour and childbirth. Mom and the baby would stay there for forty days with only one servant allowed in. It was done to protect the baby from disease. The rooms were large, but fewer in number. One was for entertaining, one for women, one for men and only one bedroom. It consisted of a raised platform, about 8'x15' with pillows and such. Everybody slept on this raised platform.

Another interesting thing about Bulgaria is that it has over 650 mineral springs. Outlets are all over--even in remote country locations. Usually it pours out of the tap at 30C.

The scenery in Bulgaria is beautiful. I travelled through two mountain ranges and finally arrived at the Black Sea. I took buses because they are faster than trains here. Glad I did. I wouldn't have appreciated the scenery from a train.

I finished my visit to Bulgaria with a week at a resort on the Black Sea. Highly commercialized. Reminded me of the CNE. Places to get hair braided, pictures taken in period costumes and caricatures done. Lots of places for people to spend money. The beach was wonderful. I didn't see as much topless as I expected. I had forgotten that Europeans don't put bathing suits on their children until they are five or six years old. Talk about freedom!

By for now,
Donna

PS. Not sure why the system dropped some of the commentary on the pictures. The picture of the death announcement should continue with, "40 days later when according the the Bulgarian Orthodox Church is the time when the spirit leaves the body. The memorials on the highways for traffic accident victims aren't the plain crosses I have seen elsewhere--these are full sized granite monuments.

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Photos

1
The Black Sea in Bulgaria just south of Romania.

2
Rila Monastery. Bulgaria's biggest tourist attraction.

3
This is how they drink beer in Bulgaria. Bottle is 2.5 litre, 4.3% alcohol and sells for about 1.50Cdn.

4
The historic city of Veliko Tarnovo, Bulgaria's first capital. They try to preserve as much as the original as possible.

5
Bulgarians announce a death in family by posting this sort of notice. It is repeated 40 days later when the Bulgarian Orthodox Church believes the spirit leaves the body. It is posted again on various anniversaries. Road side markers are not simple crosses. They are big granite memorials.

6
Nobleman's house in Arbanasi. Note the metal reinforcement in door.

7
A final look at the beautiful Black Sea coast. I stayed at a resort for a week.

Comments

[Selma]

Black Sea
Donna, It is beautiful! I love the water. How is the worki going? Selma

[Adham]

HELP
Hi Im going to buy an old farm house in the countryside but ill hardly be there Will it be safe from the Gypsies? Are they safe people?? thanks Adham

[Travelling Lady]

Bulgaria
Hi Adam, I haven't checked my blog for some months. I moved back to Canada last spring and life has a way of getting in the way. I got mixed feelings about the gypsies (Roma). I guess the easiest way to put it that they live by their own set of rules. Maybe talk to others who need to leave their houses vacant. Can you rent it out when you are not there? Wish I could be of more help. Did you see my story about the gypsies under Romania?