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Published: June 11th 2009
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Haystacks Are Different
Not all countries have there own style of haystack but almost We didn't spend a lot of time here. Basically a float through on the way to Montenegro and then back after Montenegro to Sarajevo, on through Mostar and out again to Croatia. But Bosnia-Hercegovina is definitely worth more of a look than we gave the place. Sarajevo and Mostar are well set up for tourists with plenty of pansions and many, many shops.
I think to be honest that the aspect of Bosnia-Hercegovina that interested us most was the war and its aftermath. This was a war that even our children can remember - I think.(That's sad for old peaceniks who thought that if we worked hard enough we could stop them all, but there you go.) It was a TV war of course and we all had the chance to see people running across intersections trying to dodge sniper bullets, we all supported the provision of aid and we were all stunned that a place that had hosted the Winter Olympics in 1984 was in such trouble. Most of us didn't really understand why it was happening, I suspect, but the Balkans have this reputation for having these blues and here was another one.
Visiting Sarajevo and, perhaps
Even the Mountains
The level of smoking in this country is very high. Even the mountains have a puff. to a lesser extent, Mostar you, or we - to be more precise - can be shaken into realising that the people running across intersections, and the people in the hills with guns trying to shoot them were actually warm, breathing people. More than that, they are people who are now engaged in the extremely difficult task of working out how they can successfully live in relatively close proximity.
I wouldn't presume to comment on the rights or wrongs of the war that happened or the disputes that still need to be resolved. I can't leave the subject though without noting that a person who believes a dispute can only be resolved by killing someone is, quite simply, wrong in every sense.
The scenery of Bosnia-Hercegovina is much the same as that of Montenegro - high, craggy mountains, beautiful canyons and rivers and picture postcard villages - at least until you get a little closer to them. Many are plainly poor and a number that we passed through show the effects of the war. Bullet and shell holes are common although many have been repaired or plastered over.
Sarajevo has had some setbacks in relatively recent times
River
So many beautiful gorges and rivers. but it does not impress as a victim. The city is gradually regaining what was clearly its former glory. We stayed in a pansion in the old, or Turkish, quarter. We are finding that most 'old quarters' are the places to find the most interesting sites. They are not always the places to find the cheapest accomodation but, because they tend to attract the tourists, they do have services we tend to look for, internet cafes, reasonable restaurants, bars and such. So it was in Sarajevo.
We walked around the old quarter looking at the shops, the old buildings and the occasional bullet holes or shell scars. It was a sobering experience to see what was clearly an interesting, sophisticated city that had been subjected to a nasty and prolonged attack and that is coming back to its full life.
An exhibition on the war was set up in a building that had been under sustained attack during the war. It was next door to the national museum that was apparently one of the buildings targeted by shell fire during the war. The exhibition brought together a lot of information that we had possibly seen before and a
Into Sarajevo
It wasn't just public buildings targeted. Places like this are all over the burbs. lot that was new. Should be on the compulsory list for all visitors to the country and even more widely.
Out of Sarajevo and on to Mostar. This was also a place that had been targeted during the war. The famous bridge had been blown up apparently by Croatian shells, although there was some suggestion that Serbian forces who were nearby were also involved. Who cares? They blew up a bridge that had no strategic importance whatsoever. You could easily cross the river - really a fair sized creek - in any one of a number of places. This bridge just happened to be very old and very special for Mostar and, as for the people who decided to blow it up … well, more fool them. Because it was blown up and reconstructed there are now more people then ever walking across a bridge that, to be really honest, is OK, but perhaps not that special as a bridge. It is, however, now a special symbol and a major money earner for the people of the town.
On the wall on one side of the bridge is a copy of the proclamation provided by one of the
Pigeons in the Square
After not seeing beggars for a fair while they are back here. The pigeons were very keen for a feed but easier to ignore early Ottoman sultans who guaranteed the rights of the Bosnian monks who lived in this area. Religious freedom and tolerance was alive in the 15th century. Tolerance is still alive in some of the villages we passed too. We noted places where there were Serbian flags flying along side Bosnian flags and other places where Croatian and Bosnian flags fly more or less together. Mosques and churches in the same area are common, although some of the church spires look a little like minarets. The muezzins didn't have as much competition as those in Istanbul. No microphones either as far as I could tell.
Unfortunately for me, the old city area of Mostar that is trying to attract tourists has suffered the fate of Cesky Krumlov to an extent and is well on the way to turning into a theme park. They aren't digging up the river yet to get a better flow for the canoeists but we do have blokes trying to get people to pay them to jump from the bridge - apparently 21 metres above the water. To do this you need to be a bit of a body builder and to look the part in
your red budgie smugglers. We may even have a photo - not taken by me. Others were paying more attention.
Along the river valley out of Mostar, heading for the start of the motorway in Croatia, we travelled through vineyards, many kilometres of them, both along the valley flats and up into the plateau above the valley. A rich area and one that could use a day of touring if you had the time - and a driver to make sure you made it home.
The border post on the way out was one of the most relaxed we had come across. A bloke on a plastic chair sitting beside his barrier on the Bosnian side. A bit more formal on the Croatian side - but not much.
A bit more of Croatia now before we head west and north. Post on Croatia will follow shortly. Off to Serbia , Hungary and Slovakia after that.
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