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Published: January 3rd 2005
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CAPODANNO in AUSTRIA
-the land starts to swell, and pine covered hills slowly transform into snow capped mountains, and just when you think you’ve discovered beauty, the snow capped mountains are dwarfed by those even bigger, as the white summits emerge from behind, out we come from a tunnel (as the autostrada swerves in and out, barely clinging to the vertical sides of the alps) and immediately are greeted by layers upon layers of mountain peaks and ridges, some cliff like, some carpeted with pine trees, and the further north, the more white snow has fallen and resting heavy on the branches and rocky walls surrounding us, the air is crisp and clean.
We are silent for an hour, as our 4 hour drive to Innsbruck is our introduction to the incredibly HUGE landscape of the northern Italian/southern Austrian countryside. Houses become more simple, dark angular roves, and there are less abandoned stone structures settled in the hills as we often saw closer to Florence. Here most of the land is used for agriculture-grapes vines? Olives? I am not sure, but they have a particular structure that is used along the whole country side, wooden armatures placed in perfect rows
that make the entire landscape looked well-groomed by mathematically precise farm-folk. We pass by cliffs that jutt out from the mountains, upon which are settled castle-like fortresses, or what I assume are old monasteries.
-my company on this trip? A group of friends, each connected somehow to at least one other, but not one person in particular knowing everyone. Along with Salima and her fiancé, 2 friends of hers arrived from NYC/DC accompanied by boyfriends or other friends. There were four of us in each of two cars….and met up with another friend of the group in Innsbruck, who was previously from NY, but moved there to be with her husband (Austrian) of 4 years. Without getting into details, I can only say that the diversity of our group-in terms of ethnicity, personality, style, profession-made for an eventful and memorable New Years Eve. We had a 6 course dinner at a resturant in the center of Innsbruck, which included tender venison, polenta with truffle sauce, asparagus, sausage-stuffed pepper, zucchini-wrapped white fish, and endive salad, champagne ice cream and berries to end…it snowed at midnight, as we, dressed in our very warmest (and soon more than our jackets were aiding
to warming spirits…!) toasted one another, laughed, screamed and celebrated with hundreds of other Austrians and visitors to the main piazza in Innsbruck. The couples in the group felt the romance of the evening, and the singles (or those writing messages over the cell phone to their “others” many miles away) hugged and danced in groups. We sang and joined the traditional waltz at midnight, and enjoyed a few fireworks (the city used the money usually set aside for the famous fireworks that are lit high on the mountain as relief aid for Sri Lanka). Our evening of dancing and merriment lasted well into the wee hours of the morning (le piccole ore).
Innsbruck, Austria, is just over the Italian border. It is nestled into a valley shielded on all sides by tremendously huge, snow-blanketed mountains. During the winter, the sun hides behind these mountains for a good part of the day. This city is popular for skiers, and there are many who come from all over for even the mountain tops that look higher than heaven. The city looks modern from the outside, and many of its buildings are brightly colored. The center however is charmingly medieval, with
low arches lining the stone streets and passways. We sip hot mulled wine (not called Vin Brule here, but that is the only name I remember) and also sample the famous Vienesse chocolate cake called Sacher Torte. Also popular is a thinly sliced smoked meet similar to prosciutto, called speck.
NOTE... before I left for New Years Eve I met up with a very old friend for the day…as she has moved to Italy from Senegal (originally from New Jersey) with her Italian boyfriend. In the past 5 years we have seen each other once, for Indian food in Boston, Massachusetts. It was incredible and surreal to see her in Italy-as it was like meeting family…we didn’t feel the pressure to catch up on our the complications of our lives, and instead talked, laughed and reveled in the comforting feeling of “old friendship”.
New friendship-like the one I’m building with Salima-is entirely different but also worthwhile and exciting. At 28, I know the friends I have made will continue to be in my life even with physical distance and long lengths of time as major obstacles!
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